"Bad paint coverage"

[Anonymous]

"What the #!*%x^". Why does my orange (and yellow) spray paint not want to stick to the models highlights. I am trying to paint a plastic RR car with Floquil brand spray paint but the orange top coat seems to want to puddle on the flat surfaces and grooves around the cars highlights. I first spayed on a primer coat and am putting on little coats of paint at a time. What am i doing wrong? thanks, Mike.

[Anonymous]

That's weird - I've had that problem before on shiny plastics but never after priming. It may be a problem with the spray can - if the paint isn't properly mixed (you need to shake it for about 2mins) it could do this. Failing that, you may have a bad batch - some aerosols seem a lot better than others. For example, I've never had any success using automotive sprays from the local parts store as they either melt the plastic, leave interesting and unwanted "textured" finishes, or don't give a decent smooth coat.

[nbrodar]

Sounds like either the paint isn't mixed enough, or you're spraying too close to the model. Like Matt said, it could also be a bad batch of paint.

Nick

[AntonioFP45]

Mike,

I've been where you're at. Relax and walk away from the job for a while.

Wait for the paint to dry and wet sand those areas where you got the puddles.

Would be good if you could give us more detail as to what you are doing.

Is this spray can or airbrush? Also, you say you're applying orange paint on an automobiles's headlights or on a frieght car? Please tell us more so that we can be more helpful.

Couple of things:

1. If a spray can or airbush, make sure that the mist is as fine as possible. Test your spray on a "junker" freight car first and check to see if you're getting any spatter or runs. Make sure you're not spraying too close or you will get puddles.

2. Make sure that before ANY paint job your surfaces are CLEAN. I've screwed up more than one job with just a tiny amount of sweat on my hands. Clean the model with the appropriate prep cleaner or alcohol before sanding; and just before painting. It's important that there is no oil, grease, or wax residue on surfaces to be primered or painted.

3. If you have sweaty hands, there's nothing wrong with handling a model with latex gloves.

4. Did you scuff up the surface that that's being painted? Smooth surfaces that are translucent can still be wet sanded with #800 or #1000 grit sandpaper. The paint needs something to "bite" or adhere to. There are liquid adhesion promoters on the market, but they're usually not needed for plastic models, (though they can be useful on resin kits).

5. Regarding Lights: If you need realistic looking lights, you can't beat MV Lenses. I just installed some red MV lenses on the back of my transit bus from Busch Models. What a difference! I was turned off by the painted on brake lights. Now she looks like an expensive model.

Hope this helps!

[rolleiman]

I think A: your paint is too thin, B: isn't mixed well enough (see A), C: Bad batch of paint (never really heard of that but I guess it's possible), or D: Your airbrush pressure is too high (See A and B).. or possibly even E: Your primer isn't cured.

Jeff

[cheese3]

when you say little coats, how little do you mean. I also think you may be too close.

[Anonymous]

Antonio,

Just one suggestion for better safety: Nitrile gloves offer better solvent protection than latex, and cost about the same. I get mine from Harbor Freight Tools in boxes of 100

Originally posted by AntonioFP45

Mike,

I've been where you're at. Relax and walk away from the job for a while.

Wait for the paint to dry and wet sand those areas where you got the puddles.




3. If you have sweaty hands, there's nothing wrong with handling a model with latex gloves.

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