HELLLPPP! I know nothing and I need to get him a train....

[Anonymous]

One other thing while I'm at it. Tess, save all this correspondence and keep a journal of your adventures buying model railroad gifts. This summer write up an article and submit it to Model Railroader for publication in the November 2006 issue. You might as well make some money off the hobby since you are spending it.

Speaking of caboose collecting why not take a trip to Strasburg to see the railroad and the museum then stay overnight in a real caboose at that hotel.(can't think of the name)

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by emdgp92

We've created a monster, folks :p

Watch she is so into cabooses, she will go out and find a real reading caboose to mount in their front yard when they finally get one.

HE HE HE

[Cthetrains]

oh..DUH...leave it to the uncle to find the lost piece of the puzzle..good suggestion, Mike

[Anonymous]

Sounds like Tess has gotten a lot of good advice from you fellas and gals(?). Anybody suggest a gift sub to MR or MRC along with the hardware?
I skipped from page two to five ss missed that.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by piccolotess

and a fact about me........I love antique and more retro items......i collect more specifically antique postcards......that's my hobby where I like to blow lots of money........I prefer finding cards from early 1900's postmarked....real photos of towns they way they were 100 years ago

Yea!, so do I. Aside from being a "train nut", I collect early 1900's holiday , as well as Coney Island postcards. Also have a lot of early towns and city photos in 3-D, called stereoview cards. Ever get into those? Joe

[tstage]

Tess,

Tell Tim you want:

1. Stewart Reading FT A-B diesel - You will probably have a couple of road #'s to pick from
2. Powered A-unit (given) - You gotta have a motor somewhere.
3. Unpowered or Dummy B-unit (for speaker,baffle/sound decoder)
4. DCC control/DSX sound - Tim will know what to do.

Tess, ask Tim his recommendation for the Reading FT air horn. As Walker (Texas Zephyr) already mentioned, locomotives had destinct air horns. The Reading FT will have to be matched to the correct DSX sound decoder.

Also, make sure you tell Tim that since you are planning on getting the Bachmann E-Z Command system, you won't need him to wire the FT up with the 5-pin connector to switch over from DC to DCC afterall. Other than that, Tess, you are good to go. [tup]

Holler if you think of anything else...

Tom

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by piccolotess

What does kitbashing refer to? What is the fallen flags site?

or shouldn't I ask....i have tooo much on my mind right now.....

Yeah that might be going off the deep end.

Basically Kitbashing is where someone takes a model similar to one they want and "bashes" it by cutting or adding parts from other kits together in a way that was not originally intended to create the model they desire.

Fallen flags is a term used for Railroads that are no longer in business. So in this case the Reading is a "fallen flag". There are actually many sites in the cyber world for fallen flag railroads. http://www.northeast.railfan.net/rdg_rstr.html

QUOTE:
What are the exact spects of my Reading Stewart FT A-B diesel
1. powered A only
2. DCC installed
3. DSX decoder
What am I missing? I want to be sure I order the right thing.

The type of DSX - Every picture I can find of the Reading FTs have the two single chime Wabco horns. Unfortunately I think these sound like a sick walrus. In the old days Soundtraxx had clips on their web site where one could go and listen to these, but no more... sigh. Here is a substitute. You can go to this page click on the pictures and listen to the horns esp. notice the one marked F and see the "single" over in the description. http://www.phoenixsound.com/sound_library/american_diesel/american_diesel.html

The options are:
825201 EMD 1st Gen Wabco Airhorn
825202 EMD 1st Gen 3-Chime Leslie
825203 EMD 1st Gen Nathan Airhorn
825204 EMD 1st Gen Wabco E2 1-Chime
825205 EMD 1st Gen Nath M5 5-Chime
825208 EMD 1st Gen Nath P3

[Cthetrains]

quoted from Adelie:
Kitbashing is what you do when you are trying to put together a kit and it is not going well. It involves a kit and a sledgehammer. Oh wait, that is my definition. Actually.....

that's called stress relief....but I recommend it be restricted to low-cost items.

I just hope we know as much about landscaping our lay-outs as we do about rolling stock..otherwise, we're all in trouble..as for me..I'm more into the wiring/mechanical/operational aspect..(usually the one who breaks things)

[Adelie]

Kitbashing is what you do when you are trying to put together a kit and it is not going well. It involves a kit and a sledgehammer. Oh wait, that is my definition. Actually.....

Kitbashing is taking one or more kits and modifying them by adding parts, deleting parts, modifying parts, or taking parts from other kits to wind up with the structure or model that you wanted rather than what the original kit was supposed to look like. In essence, you are building what you want from a kit that offers some of what you want.

The term fallen flags is for railroads who are no longer with us. Might have just gone away or been bought by and merged into another railroad. Regardless of how, the livery is now gone.

[emdgp92]

The Fallen Flags site has many railroad pictures: http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/.

They're organized by railroad. Sometimes, there are little extras such as track diagrams or locomotive manuals thrown in. For example, I think there's an E7 diesel manual on the New York Central page.

Kitbashing is the art of taking parts from one model kit, parts from another kit or two and 'bashing' (combining) them together to make something that's not available.

[Anonymous]

although the caboose is my personal dream...i guess I"m gonna have to put that off for a bit....tooo much info to take in....i might actually after I have purchased the loco start searching around the area or ebay for my caboose....anyway, be in touch....I"m actually off now to my hobby shop again.......

Tess

[Anonymous]

What does kitbashing refer to? What is the fallen flags site?

or shouldn't I ask....i have tooo much on my mind right now.....

[Anonymous]

What are the exact spects of my Reading Stewart FT A-B diesel

1. powered A only
2. DCC installed
3. DSX decoder

What am I missing? I want to be sure I order the right thing. What else do I need to tell Tim?

[emdgp92]

We've created a monster, folks :p

Just wait until they start kitbashing Reading freight cars, and staring at the pictures on the Fallen Flags site!

[Anonymous]

Turnouts...........ohhhhh GOTTA have that!!!!!

[Anonymous]

Definitely going to get the Bachman EZ DCC controller from my hobby shop....I'm hoping maybe I can exchange the one I bought yesterday....but if not....it still will get used some day.....

[Anonymous]

I do have to shed a secret to you all here though....Keith does have to put up with me. I'm an insane music teacher. I tend to be very flakey, forgetful and inconsiderate at times.....so I really do owe him this for putting up with every single day. :-)

:-)

[Anonymous]

James,
Thanks for your contributions. Keith is an electronics engineer.....I swear that anything mechanical or electronic he can handle....so i'm going to print off everything you said so he has it. At this point I'm okay with basic cable....since we don't have the ability to take advantage of all that better systems of DCC can offer us....who knows how long it will be till we have enough engines, track, etc till we can get full use of a really good dcc system. I think I'll go with the EZ for now. Afterall, who knows what kinds of bigger and better things might develop til a better system is needed. When we start to create permanent layouts in our basement (which we don't have yet) then we'll upgrade to the best systems. Thanks for your advice and I'm definitely going to look at the Digitrax/Zypher set in the future.

Tess

[Cthetrains]

I must agree with Tom..given the situation, well, not only is Keith being given EVERY modeler's dream, but it's being given by someone who cares enough to give the best, AND seems as interested in the hobby as most seasoned "professionals"..
SOMEONE IS A LUCKY, LUCKY MAN...our envy is with him

[Adelie]

QUOTE: Originally posted by piccolotess

definitely going to research that latter on when I have more then five minutes between students coming in and out of the classroom....

Well, now if you have students, Tess, why not have them do the research? [}:)][(-D][(-D]

Now that I think about it, not only does that make your life a little easier, it could recruit another model railroader or two from their ranks. [:o)]

[Anonymous]

i still stand by the fact that this going to be Keith's hobby.........as long as I can approve things first ;-) hehe.......okay.......you guys have created a monster.

Thanks Mark for the explanation.....definitely going to research that latter on when I have more then five minutes between students coming in and out of the classroom....

[tstage]

Tess,

Got word back from Randy. In short, he said that the AMB N&W cupola caboose won't work. The Proto 2000 (LifeLike but now Walthers) cabooses would work - but you'd have to repaint and letter them.

Here's Randy's entire response to my quesion for your edification and for future ideas. Again, it's sort a jargon-based but you should get the general picture:

QUOTE:
The windows are all wrong in the N&W. In HO, Proto2000 made Reading cabooses. The first run from a long time ago (when they cheapskates only made a single number) was the red with brown roof. You can find them on eBay sometimes, that's where I got mine. They roll like the brakes are set - and they are! It's not the pickups for the interior lighting, but indeed the brake shoe detail that drags - I just removed mine, the snap
off (and could be put back on - it doesn't break anything).

If you are up for a bit of a challenge, I think it's Eastern Car Works that sells a caboose kit that actually includes details to make any Northeastern caboose, including Reading. It's a flat kit - so getting the carbody square is the real challenge.

Also, the new release Proto2000 cabooses are still good Reading cabooses, they just come painted in the green andyellow. It's the older style caboose though, so repainting one of those to red would be a good start. And I did a little work to a Roundhouse
kit and it came out OK. It's close, just needs more details to match up to the Proto2000, plus the stock ladder design on the Roundhouse is wrong. I just filled the holes in the top of the walkways and cut the ladders to fit properly. Crude but it resembles a Reading caboose. And the ultimate - years ago, Life-Like had a cabose in their toy line that actually is a Reading-style Northeastern caboose! But like most train stes, it came in just about every road name BUT Reading. All it really needs is a paint job, decals, and a few underbody details and it comes out a closer model than the Roundhouse one. My father-in-law has two of them, one in red and one in green and yellow. Install Kadees and swap in some Reboxx wheels (I forget the length required, but the Reboxx website is wrong on this particular model - and Proto2000 wheels don't fit the
Life-Like toy trucks.) and you have a decent model.

About the only thing missing is the proper truck - a lot of Reading cabooses had Taylor trucks which are quite distinctive with a round bolster. I THINK maybe Eastern Car works or Bethlehem Car Works offers these types of trucks, but they aren't cheap - $20 or so for a pair, applied to a $1.99 Life-Like train set car seems kind odd. But not ALL
Reading cabooses had Taylor trucks, so unless you are a crazed rivet counter (which I am not) you can get away with regular Bettendorf-type caboose trucks.

--Randy

You have to admit, Randy knows his stuff! Randy is also our resident DCC guru, as well.

Tess, if you have any questions about any of the above, I'll do my best to answer what I can.

Tom

[onetrack64]

I hope you weren't at Iron Horse Hobbies. The last time I was there, they had a fair amount of Reading stuff. There is also a shop in downtown Lebanon (Draude's Derailment), and one in Lansdale, (Penn Valley Hobby), although I've not been able to get there yet. They are relatively close to you.

I just remembered the place here in Lititz, Winkies. They just might have an 8 car set in Reading paint from IHC. I picked up a set for about $80.00 last year.

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by piccolotess
I might even buy the bachman E-Z command right away if it is really that inexpensive. Would I need different accessories for the E-Z command? ex: different track feeders?

No for the size of track being considered it should just connect right in just like the MRC 220.

QUOTE: Will the Bachman E-Z command work for both locos?...

Each loco will have to be outfitted with an electronic circuit we call a DCC decoder.

QUOTE: What exactly are the adjustments necessary to have a loco work on non-dcc when it is set up for DCC.....is there an easy way of doing that

A few companies make a "dual mode" decoder that can be switched back and forth between DC and DCC. And there are other wiring schemes that can change modes by flipping a switch. I wouldn't say it is hard but not easy either. This is usually considered a one way conversion (from DC to DCC). After a person uses DCC they usually don't want to go back.

QUOTE: I was under the impression that any DCC loco would work on a regular controller just minus the special effects....I guess I'm wrong with that. I was hoping to get a fully loaded train then add the DCC controller on our anniversary a couple weeks later...

The only way I know that this could be done easily would be to get a locomotive with a Quantum sound system rather than the Sountraxx. Quantum Sound works with both DC and DCC. Quantum comes pre-installed on Broadway Limited, Atlas, and ummm Life Like Proto 2000 sound locomotives. In the past I have purchased Broadway locomotives and ripped the sound uint out to install in another unit. But there you have serious $$$ for both the inital unit and the conversion.

QUOTE: Also someone mentioned the DSX sound decoder. multiple effects rather then the LC 100....I would rather the upgrade....if i'm getting something I"m gonna go all out the first time rather then have to upgrade a month down the road.

You know.... Without comparing them side by side I am not certain most people would notice the difference. On the other hand with the reduced prices there isn't that much difference $40 vs $66.

[tstage]

Tess,

Good news! Got word from Tim this morning. Here's what he had to say about my question:

QUOTE:
Tom, the DSX would increase the cost by $25. I don't any DSX in stock right tow, but expect that I will by mid next week. I can install the DSX, and unplug the 5 pin JST, that will disconnect the decoder in the dummy B. I can slo include the D12IP in a separate package for plugging in later, these are custom fit and take no skill at all to use, well maybe to get the shell off.

Tess, I think that would be the way to go! [tup] An easy plug in and your into the DCC world - i.e. If we haven't convinced you already to go the DCC route. Even though Tim won't have the decoder in stock till next week, that ought to be plenty of time to install and mail it to you in time for Christmas.

Okay, questions and comments:

QUOTE:
I did get a ovalish kind of set up....width is 44" and length is 62"....4 straights and 16 curves of the bachman code 83. And feeder wires for them as someone explained to me is the proper terminology....bare with me..i know I'm repeating things but I"m practicing the terminology....it's fun!

Good, you got the 22" radius. Your trains will both run and look better doing it. [tup]

QUOTE:
Yes I definitely want DCC and sound for in the future....so I would love to have it all completely installed if at all possible.....I might even buy the bachman E-Z command right away if it is really that inexpensive. Would I need different accessories for the E-Z command? ex: different track feeders?

Nope. The SAME two track feeders will work with your DCC, as well as your DC. If you get the Bachmann, you may have to splice the wire coming from your E-Z Command station (i.e. the throttle) to your track feeder. That should be pretty straight forward to do.

QUOTE:
Yes I am intending on using the FT for freight and the 4-8-4 for passengers when it is available....I like the idea of preordering it.....I'm going to do that after Ii confirm everything else. Will the Bachman E-Z command work for both locos?

Yep. You can "store" up to 9 locomoitve addresses with the Bachmann. Address 10 is designated strictly for running an analog or DC locomoitve. The Bachmann only has 1 amp of power so, even though you can store up to 9 DCC addresses at once, you can only run around up to 3 locomoitves simultaneously. With you're small single-track loop for now, you won't be running that many for a while.

Again, the Bachmann is only a starter system that is limited in what it can do but is an inexpensive way to get up and going on DCC quickly. It's ideal for a small layout. The more sophisticated DCC systems allow you to do more things like adjusting configuration variables (or CVs). Simply put, CVS allow you to "fine tune" your DCC locomotives to make them even more prototypical.

For the meantime, the Bachmann would work quite well for you, Tess. Or...you can just have Tim install everythying, leave the motor and sound decoders unplugged, and run the FT on DC - until you study up and decide on a DCC system at a future point. That will be $50 you can keep in your pocket.

With that said, if you want to quickly to go to DCC, there is a new starter system called the PowerCab by NCE (a very reputable manufacturer) that is due out anytime now that Tim will have available for sale. The PowerCab is an all-in-one like the Bachmann and list is $180. Tim's price, $140. It's got more ampage than the Bachmann - 1.7 amps vs. 1 amp. One nice thing about the PowerCab is that it is upgradable to their PowerPro DCC system. The Bachmann is not. If you want more oomph to your PowerCab, a 3-amp power booster can be added for $60. (Cheap compared to others on the market.)

Or, you may want to give the LHS you visited - who gave you an hour and a half of his time - some more of your business. Knowledgable staff like that deserves all the financial support we can give them. I do about 90% of my business through my LHS.

BTW, did you get any turnouts (or switches) for your oval? Turnouts are used to divert a train from one track to another. They can be used for sidings and make a nice place to store a locomoitve or cars and get it off the mainline so you can run other trains. That's something else you can decide after Christmas...[:)]

QUOTE:
What exactly are the adjustments necessary to have a loco work on non-dcc when it is set up for DCC.....is there an easy way of doing that. I was under the impression that any DCC loco would work on a regular controller just minus the special effects....I guess I'm wrong with that. I was hoping to get a fully loaded train then add the DCC controller on our anniversary a couple weeks later...

Like I mentioned about the Bachmann, most DCC systems will allow you to run a least one "non-decoder" or analog locomotive on your layout. An analog locomotive will make a "buzzing" noise run on a DCC system. This won't harm it any. The thing you have to watch out for is leaving a DC locomotive "idle" or stationary on a DCC layout for long periods of time. The motor may heat up and eventually get cooked. (....Oops....Sorry Tess, I just re-read your question.)

That entirely depends on the decoder. They do make motor decoders today that sense whether you are running DC or DCC on your layout called "Dual mode" decoders. The issue (in your case) has more to do with the sound decoder. The motor decoder that Tim is going to install is NOT a Dual mode decoder so you will need DCC to run it properly. That holds also for the sound decoder.

They make sound decoders that both run your locomotive and give you sound. However, your FT will have separate motor and sound decoders because it will both work and sound better that way. That's a question you can ask Tim when you order the FT.

QUOTE:
Also someone mentioned the DSX sound decoder. multiple effects rather then the LC 100....I would rather the upgrade....if i'm getting something I"m gonna go all out the first time rather then have to upgrade a month down the road.

According to Tim's e-mail, it's only going to be $25 more for the DSX decoder. I would definitely go that route.

QUOTE:


Texas had the point of it not necessary to have a powered B. Do i need the powered b in order to have the sound decoder and DCC installed in the train? Or can I just leave the powered b out and get the other stuff? I don't think this train is ever going to have a major load of cars or major hills....by the point that I would need a powered b I would probably have it in other forms of locos.

No. In your case, you really don't need a powered B-unit. As I said in an earlier post, the dummy unit can house the speaker, baffle, and sound decoder. This will make for a [tup] VERY nice [tup] resonant chamber for your speaker. You motor decoder will therefore be installed in the powered A-unit. Stewart mechanisms are so strong and smooth, even a single powered A-unit will pull quite a number of cars. Tess, if you ever get to the point of wanting more oomph, just leave your A-B combination as is and order another A-unit, giving you a A-B-A unit. You can probably just run the two A-units as a consist. A consist is a way of running two or more locomotives in tandum. All you need to do is program the two A-units to the same address and they will work as one BIG locomotive. Cool, huh?

Jumping down to your next post...

QUOTE:
BTW, one thing I don't understand....these numbers 2-8-0.....4-8-4.....anyone have a site explaining what all that means? I'm thinking it's something to deal with the wheels, engine mechanics or something.....well be in touch about that one too....but that is a last priority.....I need to get a loco settled fast! After that looking for a red reading lines caboose with white lettering. :-) After that I'm gonna study up on more of the details that really escape me!

Mark did a great job of explaining wheel arrangements so I leave that one alone. The red Reading caboose is turning out to be a tough one. I e-mailed the Reading guru (Randy) again last night to get his input.

I do have an idea for a wood one but it's from a kit by Americal Model Builders (AMB). REALLY cool kits!!! [tup] ABM makes laser-cut buildings and structures out of wood. The detailing is fantastic! (Tess, if you click on the link at the bottom of my post, you can see an Interlocking tower, boxcar depot and Dill's Market on my layout that are made from the AMB kits.)

There is backing on most of the kit pieces so assembly is quite easy and pretty much glue free. (There's an occasional piece or two that needs wood glue to hold that parts together.) The AMB caboose kit is for a Norfolk and Western (N & W) cupola caboose. (The cupola is the raised roof section used for observation.)

I asked Randy if this particular one would be close to the Reading caboose. If so, all you would have to do is assemble it (directions are very straight forward), paint the body Caboose Red and the roof Roof Brown, add the Reading decals, and...Presto!...Chango!...you got yourself an authentic red Reading caboose. There's also the issue of adding the two trucks or wheel sets and adding couplers. But - Hey! - there would be a fun date night (or two) for the both of you to work on the layout together. Here's a picture of the AMB caboose:



Sweet looking, isn't she. I'll find out from Randy if it will work for the Reading caboose or not.

Now, back up to your last comment...

QUOTE:
Tom, just let me know what you think of what I said above and then when I get the go ahead one way or another from you, Oh Wise One!!! Well, then I'll give Tim a call and make the arrrangements. Tom, you've been a blessing!

Tess, we are glad to be of help. I think I speak for all of us here that it's nice to see and hear what you are trying to do to make this a very special Christmas for Keith. That's why you've gotten such an overwhelming response in such a short amount of time. And I DON'T think that has to do entirely with the fact that you are of the female persuasion.

For the most part, folks around here are very helpful to newbies. (Tess, the rate you've been learning things, given another couple days, you'll be teaching us new things [:)]) Wise? Eh, questionable. If wise, it's only from my own short MRRing experience (a year and a half) and the fine folks here on the MR forum! I still have A LOT to learn about both RRing and MRRing.

Okay, I think I've said WAAAAAY too much. Tess, I think you are ready to go. Fire away anymore questions that come up between now and Christmas...and even afterward. [:)]

Tom

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by piccolotess
Yes I definitely want DCC and sound for in the future....so I would love to have it all completely installed if at all possible.....I might even buy the bachman E-Z command right away if it is really that inexpensive. Would I need different accessories for the E-Z command? ex: different track feeders?

In theory no. I do not have the EZ Command System. I know they have a feeder set up that is "Plug & Play" where you plug one end into the EZ Command Module, and plug the other into a special "Terminal Track". But if iether of you have any basic wiring skills, It is a simple matter of cutting the Terminal Track end off, and splicing the EZ Command Feeder with your regular Track Feeder. Simple "Scotch Lock" splicers can accompli***his for you if so inclined.

QUOTE:
Yes I am intending on using the FT for freight and the 4-8-4 for passengers when it is available....I like the idea of preordering it.....I'm going to do that after Ii confirm everything else. Will the Bachman E-Z command work for both locos?

A basic requirment of any DCC system for it to be called a DCC system is it must be able to run any DCC equipped locomotive. However, I did study up on the features of the EZ-Command system and find it a rather limited propsistion. With EZ Command you can only have 10 locomotives or Consists (The term for a group of more than one locomotive operating together) on the track. At any given time. Whle that is more than eneugh for a small bedroom sized layout. If you build a larger model railroad than that, I fear that you would replace the system rather than expand it.

A thought would be to consider a DCC system by Atlas, Lenz or Digitrax. The Atlas System is made by Lenz and at a later date if you wanted to add more capabilities to your system you can easily expand it with components made by Lenz. Lenz is a highly reccomended manufacturor, and were I not given a Digitrax System as a Christmas Present a couple years ago. I would have probably gone with that.

But as I said I use the Digitrax system. It to is of high quality. and very expandable. You can start with their "Zypher" starter set. While like the EZ Command it can run 10 Trains at once. The Zypher can litterally handle over 10,000 Separte locomotives and Consists on the track at once. This lets you use the system more flexibly where as you can size the system off how many trains your running at once, rather than how many locomotives you have as I get the impression EZ-Command does. The Zypher also has a feature where it can turn your MRC Power Pack you purchased into another DCC throttle so you can get going with two trains. Then later of your Layout Grows and gets bigger, Digitrax componets Plug together daizy chain fashion and you can expand the Zypher into a system that can run up to 127 separate Locomotives/Consists at once.

For these reasons, I reccomend something other than EZ Command. But, I must state that EZ Command given what I view are its limitations is a quality system. I just find stuck down at the proverbial "Basic Cable" end of the DCC spectrum. In terms of features.

QUOTE:
What exactly are the adjustments necessary to have a loco work on non-dcc when it is set up for DCC.....is there an easy way of doing that. I was under the impression that any DCC loco would work on a regular controller just minus the special effects....I guess I'm wrong with that. I was hoping to get a fully loaded train then add the DCC controller on our anniversary a couple weeks later...

For a DCC equipped locomotive to do as you describe, it needs to be outfitted with what is known as a "Dual Mode" Decoder. They can iether be Manual switch, like those made by Atlas, or Automatic such as those made by Digitrax and North Coast Engineering. You can also rest assured that any locomotive that you purchace with a DCC Decoder installed at the factory (With the exception of Bachmann Locos from what I understand) are installed with Dual Mode Decoders.

QUOTE:
Texas had the point of it not necessary to have a powered B. Do i need the powered b in order to have the sound decoder and DCC installed in the train? Or can I just leave the powered b out and get the other stuff?

Nope You can still have an unpowered B. What I typically see in such an installation is that the Decoder gets placed in the powered A unit. Then Wires are run back to the B so that the sound chip, wheather it is intigrated into the Decoder, or a separate component can run the speakers in the B Unit. Installations in an Unpowered Unit Generally Deliver Higher quality sound as larger speaker enclosures can be made.

However with that said, it is my personal preferance to have all my locos powered. But the layout I am planning is set in the Rocky Mountains of Montana. With steep hills and stuff. and Hauling 25-30 car trains. (Which are quite large trains on a model railroad)

Glad I could be of further assistance.

James Mitich

[Cthetrains]

quoted from Tess:
I'm under the impression that the MRC 220 I can use in the future for lighting buildings, lamp posts, etc....so no loss for purchasing it. I'll by a DCC controller in the future when we have multiple trains and layout set up. For now there really is no need.


guys..we've created a monster.....[:p][^]

[Adelie]

Hi Tess, and welcome.

You've been getting a lot of good advice out here from some great, knowledgeable people (other than MTHRules, ignore him).

2-8-0 and 4-8-4 are wheel arrangements of steam locomotives. The first number is the small set of wheels in the front of the locomotive. Some had none (such as a 0-6-0). These were generally used in freight yards. A good number of freight locomotives had 2 wheels in front to "steer" the locomotive into turns. Passenger locomotives ran at higher speeds and tended to have 4 wheels in front. The second number is the number of drivers. These are the larger wheels in the center of the locomotive that provided power. You'll probably see numbers from 4 to 10, although there were some 12s on the Union Pacific. There can also be two sets of these (4-8-8-4). Such locomotives had two distinct sets of drivers (a longer discussion). The last number is the "trailing truck" that was used to support the firebox. There could be 0, 2, 4 and even 6.

The various combinations also had names. Someone will probably pipe up with a website or two describing those. A 2-8-0 is a Consolidation. A 4-8-4 generally went by the name Northern, but some railroads had other names.

Go to www.steamlocomotive.com for some reading. It can be a bit overwhelming, but there is a ton of information out there. Go to the tab marked "wheel arrangements" and it will confuse, uh, inform you.

Good luck. I model N-scale, myself, but was into HO until about 5 years ago.

By the way, if you are looking to add anyone else to your Christmas list, uh, nevermind.

[Anonymous]

BTW, one thing I don't understand....these numbers 2-8-0.....4-8-4.....anyone have a site explaining what all that means? I'm thinking it's something to deal with the wheels, engine mechanics or something.....well be in touch about that one too....but that is a last priority.....I need to get a loco settled fast! After that looking for a red reading lines caboose with white lettering. :-) After that I'm gonna study up on more of the details that really escape me!

[Anonymous]

Answers to questions: I did get a ovalish kind of set up....width is 44" and length is 62"....4 straights and 16 curves of the bachman code 83. And feeder wires for them as someone explained to me is the proper terminology....bare with me..i know I'm repeating things but I"m practicing the terminology....it's fun!

Yes I definitely want DCC and sound for in the future....so I would love to have it all completely installed if at all possible.....I might even buy the bachman E-Z command right away if it is really that inexpensive. Would I need different accessories for the E-Z command? ex: different track feeders?

Yes I am intending on using the FT for freight and the 4-8-4 for passengers when it is available....I like the idea of preordering it.....I'm going to do that after Ii confirm everything else. Will the Bachman E-Z command work for both locos?

What exactly are the adjustments necessary to have a loco work on non-dcc when it is set up for DCC.....is there an easy way of doing that. I was under the impression that any DCC loco would work on a regular controller just minus the special effects....I guess I'm wrong with that. I was hoping to get a fully loaded train then add the DCC controller on our anniversary a couple weeks later...

Also someone mentioned the DSX sound decoder. multiple effects rather then the LC 100....I would rather the upgrade....if i'm getting something I"m gonna go all out the first time rather then have to upgrade a month down the road.

Texas had the point of it not necessary to have a powered B. Do i need the powered b in order to have the sound decoder and DCC installed in the train? Or can I just leave the powered b out and get the other stuff? I don't think this train is ever going to have a major load of cars or major hills....by the point that I would need a powered b I would probably have it in other forms of locos.

Tom, just let me know what you think of what I said above and then when I get the go ahead one way or another from you, Oh Wise One!!! Well, then I'll give Tim a call and make the arrrangements. Tom, you've been a blessing!

Okay, as always much thanks sent out to my new train friends.