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The Challenger is almost done!!!! :D :D :D

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 6:57 PM

Woooow..... Impressive!

My question is; what do you do with these monsters? (DD40, Big Boy, est) Big Smile [:D]

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Posted by Lillen on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 4:21 PM

Well, the great thing about that response was that they can hardly be accused of pushing it on to me!

 

Magnus

Unless otherwise mentioned it's HO and about the 50's. Magnus
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Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Tuesday, October 16, 2007 5:47 PM
 Lillen wrote:
"Magnus, The Bowser Challenger is an old style kit that was popular in the 1960's. Compared with the newer technology these old models look and run very very poorly. I would suggest you not attempt one.   I'm not sure if all the parts are still available from Bowser. The extra detailing kits are essential and I doubt that are still available.   The total cost would be over $200.00 and you are left with a third rate model, even if you assemble it with great care."

 

How do you guys feel towards that statement?

I feel they're heavily underrating them. The only problems with Bowser's Challengers are the over-sized boiler (about 5 scale inches on each side) and exposed driveline. Other than that, they're great models.Big Smile [:D] $200 isn't bad either, considering the next one up (Athearn's) is over $400.

Maybe whoever it was that sent you that response should see this topic Big Smile [:D]:
http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1132087/ShowPost.aspx
(The Challenger is FINALLY finished!)

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Posted by andrechapelon on Tuesday, October 16, 2007 2:37 PM
 Lillen wrote:

I got this message from caboose in Denver when I asked about this kit:

 

"Magnus, The Bowser Challenger is an old style kit that was popular in the 1960's. Compared with the newer technology these old models look and run very very poorly. I would suggest you not attempt one.   I'm not sure if all the parts are still available from Bowser. The extra detailing kits are essential and I doubt that are still available.   The total cost would be over $200.00 and you are left with a third rate model, even if you assemble it with great care."

How do you guys feel towards that statement?

Magnus

 

If you check Bowser's website  http://bowser-trains.com/holocos/challenger/challenger.htm, the kit AND the superdetail parts are listed and should be available.

Churchy

It's really kind of hard to support your local hobby shop when the nearest hobby shop that's worth the name is a 150 mile roundtrip.
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Posted by Lillen on Tuesday, October 16, 2007 1:12 PM

I got this message from caboose in Denver when I asked about this kit:

 

"Magnus, The Bowser Challenger is an old style kit that was popular in the 1960's. Compared with the newer technology these old models look and run very very poorly. I would suggest you not attempt one.   I'm not sure if all the parts are still available from Bowser. The extra detailing kits are essential and I doubt that are still available.   The total cost would be over $200.00 and you are left with a third rate model, even if you assemble it with great care."

 

How do you guys feel towards that statement?

 

Magnus

Unless otherwise mentioned it's HO and about the 50's. Magnus
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Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Tuesday, October 16, 2007 10:29 AM
 cudaken wrote:
Darth, can it be made DCC with sound?  What radius can it handel? I have gotten much better at tearing down steam engines and fixing them so buliding one may not be out of reach. Far past where I was when you helped me with the Mess I sent you

 Is there any speical tools need to quater the drive. From what little I know this is the part that seems the hardest. Working the metal should not be tuff for me.

The motor is isolated from the frame, so yes, it can be made to have DCC and Sound. Before you do, you'll want to do a couple things before installing it, since the stock driveline is too noisy to hear sound over. First, you'll want to replace the stock Athearn style couplings with good quality ones. This is where most of the noise comes from. You'll also want to try putting some sort of sound dampener in the hollow boiler, since the tube shape seems to amplify motor noise.

The Challengers can handle curves down to an 18" radius, but at that tightness, the boiler has a 1" over-hang!Shock [:O] Better make sure there are no trees growing that close to the track!

The drivers should be perfectly quartered from the factory. I've built four Bowsers so far, and none of them have had out-of-quarter drivers. If you do somehow get one like that, NWSL makes a quartering tool ("The Quarterer").

New section will have to have some 18" but more than likely 20" + turns. Will map that out my next 2 days off. Plus want to push 10 to 15 coal cars up a 3% grade to the mine. I am all so getting a little bored buying engines. 

 I am sure your Challenger would out pull my PCM Y6-b but it is a power house in it's own right.

 Time to sleep with images of Challenger dancing in my head.

The Bowser Challenger should be able to handle those curves fine. It should also be able to push that many cars up a 45 degree angle!Big Smile [:D] It already weighs just over 2lb. on its own, but if you fill that hollow boiler with weight, you could probably get it up to over 3lb.!!Shock [:O] Bowser does actually have a weight available for the Challenger (part #3020, $11.50). I'm not sure how big it is, but for the price, it should fill all empty space.Big Smile [:D]

A dancing Challenger in your head...well, I guess anything's possible with dreams.

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Posted by NeO6874 on Tuesday, October 16, 2007 10:22 AM
 cudaken wrote:

 Darth, can it be made DCC with sound?  What radius can it handel? I have gotten much better at tearing down steam engines and fixing them so buliding one may not be out of reach. Far past where I was when you helped me with the Mess I sent you

 Is there any speical tools need to quater the drive. From what little I know this is the part that seems the hardest. Working the metal should not be tuff for me.

 New section will have to have some 18" but more than likely 20" + turns. Will map that out my next 2 days off. Plus want to push 10 to 15 coal cars up a 3% grade to the mine. I am all so getting a little bored buying engines. 

 I am sure your Challenger would out pull my PCM Y6-b but it is a power house in it's own right.

 Time to sleep with images of Challenger dancing in my head.

                       Ken

 

Ken, I'm pretty sure that the drivers are already quartered on the axles.  The tricky part is getting all the bits of the valve gear and side rods in the right place. 

-Dan

Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site

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Posted by Hoople on Tuesday, October 16, 2007 9:45 AM

You know, I don't have the patience or time to build a challenger. I'll stick with my Genesis challenger.

 

Mark.
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Posted by cudaken on Tuesday, October 16, 2007 1:16 AM

 Darth, can it be made DCC with sound?  What radius can it handel? I have gotten much better at tearing down steam engines and fixing them so buliding one may not be out of reach. Far past where I was when you helped me with the Mess I sent you

 Is there any speical tools need to quater the drive. From what little I know this is the part that seems the hardest. Working the metal should not be tuff for me.

 New section will have to have some 18" but more than likely 20" + turns. Will map that out my next 2 days off. Plus want to push 10 to 15 coal cars up a 3% grade to the mine. I am all so getting a little bored buying engines. 

 I am sure your Challenger would out pull my PCM Y6-b but it is a power house in it's own right.

 Time to sleep with images of Challenger dancing in my head.

                       Ken

I hate Rust

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Posted by claycts on Monday, October 15, 2007 10:20 PM
I am impressed!!! That is one you can be proud of for sure!!!
Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!!
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Posted by R. T. POTEET on Thursday, October 4, 2007 6:37 PM

Darth Santa Fe, I am jealous with envy . . . . . . . . . . sheer . . . . . . . . . . unadulterated . . . . . . . . . . envy; not only that but I just ruined a shirt with drool!

I ordered one of these models while stationed in Germany in the early '70s but they were out of stock. I was going to use a centipede a friend of mine in Taxachusetts had salvaged from  a brass-something or other that had taken a plunge to the floor and been destroyed but when I couldn't get the Challenger I didn't buy it. Some years later when the model did become available I found out that my friend in Taxachusetts had passed on so I never did wind up putting one together.

I did, however, put together a Bowser K11 and a USRA Mountain; a bit of work but they ran like a finely crafted watch.

From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet

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Posted by R. T. POTEET on Thursday, October 4, 2007 5:56 PM
 West Coast S wrote:
Anyone interested in one in 1:32 scale? Over our feet in length, impressive doesn't begin to describe it , the wife forbids me from buying one, wah, wah...
Dave


I am going to guess that this is by Aster; I don't know fur shur just how much the Challenger is but I saw either a Challenger or one of their Big Boys in a display case at The Train Shop in Santa Clara, Calif a few years back and it had a $13,500.00 price tag on it if I remember right!

Reserve two of them in my name: I'll pay for them at 2:35 on the afternoon of July the 23rd in the year of our Lord 2057. Oh yes, that time is Pacific Daylight Time. 

From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet

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Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Thursday, October 4, 2007 5:38 PM

 GearDrivenSteam wrote:
Just a thought, but why not just paint the worm gear flat black? If it was mine, I really wouldn't let it bother me. Great job.

A better idea might be to blacken it (I think Micro-Mark makes blackening fluid). If the worm were painted, the paint could chip off all over and cause all sorts of problems.

While I was typing this, I decided to look for the blackening stuff. It's called Neolube. It blackens, lubricates, and improves electrical conductivity, all in one! I might have to get me some-a that.Big Smile [:D]

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83181

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Posted by GearDrivenSteam on Thursday, October 4, 2007 2:24 PM
Just a thought, but why not just paint the worm gear flat black? If it was mine, I really wouldn't let it bother me. Great job.
It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.
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Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Tuesday, October 2, 2007 9:50 PM

 Hoople wrote:
Darth, PCM makes there brass big boy with the rear drivers rigid to the frame. It does 26" radii apparently.

Yes, but it's still a limited edition brass model. What I said earlier (2 years ago now!Shock [:O]) is the Bowser models are the only non-brass ones with true articulation. I've heard (and seen) the PCM brass Big Boy is also the most detailed HO model in existence. If only I had an extra $3,000 to burn...

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Posted by Hoople on Tuesday, October 2, 2007 7:23 PM
Darth, PCM makes there brass big boy with the rear drivers rigid to the frame. It does 26" radii apparently.
Mark.
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Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Tuesday, October 2, 2007 7:13 PM

 Lillen wrote:
Would you please help me by telling me what parts I would need to order to build this one? Do the motor come with the engine and so on? I've looked at bowsers homepage and the ordering part is, well for lack of a better word, poor.

You mean, which kits will you need to build it?

The four kits required to build it (with the Big Boy tender) are:
Bowser #100300 Locomotive kit ($123 US)
Bowser #100325 Superdetail kit ($62)
Bowser #150681 Electrical kit ($27.40)
Revell/Monogram or Con-Cor Big Boy kit

At the moment, Bowser has the Locomotive and detail kits on backorder, but the electrical kit is still in stock. http://www.bowserorders.com/.sc/ms/dd/HO%20Bowser%20Miscellaneous/3815583/Bowser%20ELECTRICAL%20KIT%20MONO%2014%20WHEEL%20%20TENDER The motor and all the drive parts do come with the locomotive kit.

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Posted by Lillen on Tuesday, October 2, 2007 5:15 PM

Would you please help me by telling me what parts I would need to order to build this one? Do the motor come with the engine and so on? I've looked at bowsers homepage and the ordering part is, well for lack of a better word, poor.

 

 

 

Magnus

Unless otherwise mentioned it's HO and about the 50's. Magnus
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Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Friday, October 7, 2005 4:17 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by oleirish

You stated that the Bowser Challenger and Big Boy have true articulation.A little more info on that please[%-)] I have an rivarossi 2-8-8-2 Big Boy It is Articualated[%-)]


Most HO articulated steamers (like all the ones made by Rivarossi) have both sets of drivers mounted so the can swing around like diesel trucks. On the Bowser Challenger and Big Boy, the rear set of drivers is mounted rigidly to the boiler, like on the real ones, leaving only the front set to swing back and forth.

QUOTE: Originally posted by oleirish

I hope you used loctite on your running gear?


If you're talking about how I supported the 4 parts I moved back, I glued small pieces of copper on the parts just above where it hangs on the rivet, keeping it half-way up like it's supposed to be.[:)]

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Posted by andrechapelon on Friday, October 7, 2005 2:22 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe

My Bowser Challenger that I started building almost 4 months ago is almost done!![:D] All it needs is 1 more marker light (which I lost and need to find), a couple more pieces around the smoke box and some decals.[:)] Here are some before and after shots of it:

BEFORE:


AFTER:






I think it's turning out pretty well.[:D][:D][:D]


Yo, Darth! Want a Clinchfield Challenger to go with your UP??

http://tinyurl.com/88yk9

Andre
It's really kind of hard to support your local hobby shop when the nearest hobby shop that's worth the name is a 150 mile roundtrip.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 7, 2005 12:54 PM
Looking good there dude :P
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Posted by oleirish on Friday, October 7, 2005 12:27 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe

QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts

Thank you, I will now order one, was worried about how they ran.
Want to build another? Only kidding
George P.


Only if you add the detail, paint the engine and pay me $100. I'd build the valve gears in my special modified way, which makes it much more realistic.


My way


Bowser's way

See any difference besides the black paint on their's?

I hope you used loctite on your running gear?
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Posted by oleirish on Friday, October 7, 2005 12:24 PM
Vary nice work, Now I want to build one!!well maybe not,my eyes arent good enough for that[^][:D][wow]You stated that the Bowser Challenger and Big Boy have true articulation.A little more info on that please[%-)] I have an rivarossi 2-8-8-2 Big Boy It is Articualated[%-)]Any how real nice work[bow]
JIM
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 7, 2005 11:58 AM
Wow!! I like it! I used to think that the steam locos were 'pretty cool' until last month when I got to see UP Challenger 3985 up close and personal. After that, I started having dreams about those things. I simply MUST get one for my layout.

Looking good, though!

Darrin
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Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Thursday, October 6, 2005 1:30 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tyco_ryan

Not to steal the topic.... However the Big Boy I orderd last week arrived a couple days ago. Just could not pass up that discount they are having. Also seriously thinking about ordering the T1, just have to see how $$$$$ works out in the next few days.

Anyway, like mentioned above, any tips on riveting, or any other words of wisdom...? I spent some time yesterday, searching the web for any info. But found very little....


All Bowser kits include a special tool for riveting. All you need is a hard surface for pounding the rivets and a light hammer or medium sized wrench. When you do the rivets, make sure you hit the riveting tool lightly, or the rivet might be too tight, but you don't want it too loose either.

If you have any other questions about building Bowser steamers, just ask. I'll see what I can do to help.[:D]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Leon Silverman

Does this Challenger have true articulation (with the rear drivers rigidly mounted to the boiler instead of rotating like diesel engines)?


Yes, the Bowser Challenger and Big Boy have true articulation. They are the only non-brass Challengers and Big Boys with correct articulation.[:D]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Brunton

It appears you've also left the gear in "neutral," or very close to it. Your valve piston won't move much, if at all (or did I miss something obvious?). Will you be adding the reversing linkage?


I didn't want to go to the trouble of making the valve gear pistons move, so I left them in nuetral.

The power reverse is on the right rear side of the engine. It's sort of visable in the 5th picture, but it's only a detail part and doesn't move.

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Posted by Leon Silverman on Thursday, October 6, 2005 10:46 AM
Does this Challenger have true articulation (with the rear drivers rigidly mounted to the boiler instead of rotating like diesel engines)?
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Posted by icmr on Thursday, October 6, 2005 8:52 AM
Very good, very good. [bow][bow][bow][bow][bow][bow][wow][wow]



ICMR

Happy Railroading.[swg][swg]
Illinois Central Railroad. Operation Lifesaver. Look, Listen, Live. Proud owner and user of Digitrax DCC. Visit my forum at http://icmr.proboards100.com For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life. Let every thing that hath breath praise the Lord. Praise ye the Lord. Dream. Plan. Build.Smile, Wink & GrinSmile, Wink & Grin
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 6, 2005 8:40 AM
Not to steal the topic.... However the Big Boy I orderd last week arrived a couple days ago. Just could not pass up that discount they are having. Also seriously thinking about ordering the T1, just have to see how $$$$$ works out in the next few days.

Anyway, like mentioned above, any tips on riveting, or any other words of wisdom...? I spent some time yesterday, searching the web for any info. But found very little....
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Posted by Pruitt on Thursday, October 6, 2005 8:17 AM
It appears you've also left the gear in "neutral," or very close to it. Your valve piston won't move much, if at all (or did I miss something obvious?). Will you be adding the reversing linkage?

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