Questions from a complete novice..

[Anonymous]

Hello!

I'm new round these parts and in fact completly new to the hobby. Forgive me for starting up a thread, but I could not find anything by searching.[:I]

If it's ok, I have a few questions...

I have an old layout (about 15 years old with an Analogue control) from when I was a kid which I have decided to dust off and finally use properly.

1) I'm really interested in having some US trains on my track (namely a Western Pacific F3) will this work on the UK voltage system?

2) I have no idea on this DCC thing, but I gather it can have it's advantages (especially sound and lights) will US trains work on a UK DCC system if I do decide to upgrade? Or does this suffer the same cross border trouble as DVD's do?

I think that's it for now.....

[Anonymous]

First of all, welcome! The F3 will be fine on a UK controller (I run Athearn, Bachmann, Hornby, Proto, etc from the same power pack with no problems on my running-in loop before adding decoders). The DCC will be fine too - if anything most US locos are easier to convert as they have a can motor (easier to isolate). DCC is a worldwide standard so you should have no problems. Enjoy!

[MisterBeasley]

DCC is standardized as far as the locomotives go. To be properly called a DCC decoder (the part in the engine,) it must conform to the same rules as all decoders. Likewise, all commands to the track by the controller must follow the same rules.

DCC as we know it evolved from a German product from Lenz. They had the great wisdom to "donate" their design and protocols as the standard for all of us.

You will find that most, if not all, DCC systems do NOT plug into the wall themselves. Instead, you need a power supply, which is generally not included in the package (or the price.) Some modellers are surprised when the open the box up and discover this. In your case, though, it works to your advantage, since you don't end up with a 120-volt, 60Hz box you can't use.

Earlier this year, I pulled my trains out of mothballs after 40 years. I'm having a lot of fun with them. I'm particularly enjoying DCC, which is so much better than running with DC.

[steveblackledge]

Hey it's another Brit on the forum, have a pint on me, are you near Lancashire. I run American trains on my layout no problem, the only difference between UK and USA trains is the scale, we brits run OO gauge but the Americans run HO, both use the same track. Lenz DCC is widley available here with an increasing number of manufacturers making trains DCC ready, you just plug the decoder in,,,however there are manufacturers who use Quantum technology in there loco's, these trains run on standard DC AND DCC, and best of all they have sound as standard which works on DC, flick the direction switch to sound the horn or ring the bell, accelerate and the enging revs up, decelerate and the engine slows down, bloody fantastic stuff here's a link http://www.broadway-limited.com/
try this sound bite from a BLI steam loco http://www.broadway-limited.com/products/M1.htm
and try this for a diesel soundbite http://www.broadway-limited.com/sounds/AC6000.mp3

[Anonymous]

Wow - thanks for the quick responces! I'm glad to hear there's no coversion required when buying stuff! ($145 is a lot of money for it just to sit and look pretty!)

[JohnT14808]

Welcome to the forum, Sir Donald. I'm glad the forum members from GB answered your questions. Just wanted to welcome you to our fun place. Is 15 years of dust hard to get off the track??

[Anonymous]

^No not really - it was stored on its side so not much collected really. Although the engines have a stalling fit now and again - it'll get there though!

I have another question if I could.

I know that OO & HO are 1:87 scale - but how does this translate when trying to make models. You see I have some lofty ideas for making my own buildings. Artwork is no problem, but getting it the right size in PC Paint (for example) baffles me..

[Anonymous]

Ah, OO is 1:76, HO is 1:87 - OO strictly speaking uses too narrow a track gauge (should be 18mm as used in EM and P4 scales, I can't say it bothers me but there are apparently major rows!). Your best bet with printing off model overlays (neat idea by the way) would be to make a series of doors to different sizes, print it out, and look at it against a scale ruler. When you're happy with the door sizes you can scale the rest of the model from those. Hope this is of help!

[Anonymous]

^ "Cracking idea Gromit!"

Thanks! I'll let you all know how I get on!

I'm still toying with the name so it's still early days..