Walthers Auto Racks...

[mbshaw]

Fellow modelers. I'm looking for a little help to get my auto racks to operate a little more smoothly. I have a large number of auto racks and am having problems getting them to operate well, mostly on the coupler side of things.

The coupler mechanism sticks and the couplers have a lot of play in the vertical position plus they don't seem to align well in the horizontal position. I am using Kadee #58 couplers and have tried sanding the coupler mechanism but haven't had mch success.

Anyone have any good suggestions in getting these to run smooth?

M Shaw

[ndbprr]

vertical movement of the couplers while operating is indicative of trackwork that is not smooth. Turnout size and curvature will also contribute to derailing. I wouldn't use them on less than 30" radius and #6 turnouts.

[bbrant]

I remember when MR did a review of the cars. In it, they said they would take a Kadee #5 coupler. I used these on my cars and haven't had any problems with them.

As mentioned, you need broad curves - they will run on 22" radius but 24" and up was mentioned for better look & performance.

Hope that helps.

Brian

[mbshaw]

bbrant,

Do you happen to recall the article date?

M Shaw

[TomDiehl]

I put some of these together several years ago. First, they're too light. I put them together with double weights in them, and filled the others in with a strip of brass.

IIRC, these have a swing coupler mount in them. If you put the Kadee #5 or any that uses the same centering spring, you need to cut the tabs off the front edge of the spring (the little pieces that hang down when the spring is installed). I do this to all my couplers and also, when I use the Kadee box, I trim the center post and sides of the box to allow it to close in tighter, preventing the vertical movement of the coupler in the box (I assume this is what you're talking about, not the trackwork problem stated above).

You'll need to look at the coupler box and examine it for problems causing it not to swing. 1) assemble it without a coupler or spring in it and see if the box swings easily. 2) Install the coupler and spring and check again.

[waltersrails]

[#ditto] i agree with bbrant and tom.

[Anonymous]

Currently, I only own one of these autoracks, it was a ready to roll one with metal wheels that I bought earlier this year. It seems to work really good on my layout on Track 3 which has the smallest radius of 22". All that I can say is just keep trying different things with the couplers to get it to work. One time, I stuffed a piece of cardboard in the coupler mechanism on one of my Athearn engines that was having coupler problems. That cardboard piece fixed it so you might try something like that or try several of the ideas mentioned above by other members.

[bbrant]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mbshaw

bbrant,

Do you happen to recall the article date?

M Shaw

You just had to ask!! [:D]

Seriously....Off the top of my head I don't recall the date. I'm going to guess it's been about 10 years ago. If check the back issues of MR that our club has and see if I can find anything. Probably won't be until later this week or possibly this weekend but I'll get back to you on any findings.

Brian

[BentnoseWillie]

Any advice pertaining to the mounting of the Kadee 5 in these cars will also apply to teh 58, which was introduced years after that article was published. The 5 and 58 have identical shanks.

[trainboyH16-44]

I have 2, and I find that they run pretty well, except on this one spot that there is a bridge and a sag. I tried to fix this, but unsuccessfully, so now I don't run them. I would inspect your trackwork, then try to smooth bumps and fill sags. That sould help.
Trainboy

[bbrant]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bbrant

QUOTE: Originally posted by mbshaw

bbrant,

Do you happen to recall the article date?

M Shaw

You just had to ask!! [:D]

Seriously....Off the top of my head I don't recall the date. I'm going to guess it's been about 10 years ago. If check the back issues of MR that our club has and see if I can find anything. Probably won't be until later this week or possibly this weekend but I'll get back to you on any findings.

Brian

Well, I just got back from our train club and here's what I found.

The review was written by Jim Hediger in the June 1992 issue. The review is somewhat lengthy (and I'm somewhat lazy [:D]) so I won't type the entire thing. But here's what's mentioned when it comes to couplers....

"I was pleased with the draft gear design as it provides additional side motion in either direction. Depending on the coupler pressure, the assembly can shift laterally about half the width of the draft-gear box that accepts either the horn-hook coupler, supplied with the kit, or a Kadee no. 5.

I had to scrape the paint off the uderside of the body where the draft-gear boxes move. The paint and a sliver of excess plastic interfered with the centering action. The top plate locks into the endo of the body and is held with a small screw, so there's access for maintenance."

Here's what was mentioned on curve radius....

"Cars of this type aren't made to run on tight radii. Even with their modified draft-gear, these cars need a 24"-radius curve to operate with other equipment."

It goes on to say that he had "no difficulty switching or running them on my HO Ohio Southern with Kadee couplers, 32" minimum radius curves and no. 5 turnouts. The extra coupler motion let me push or pull them through a no. 5 crossover between straight tracks."

That's what the review said. I believe Walthers says they can operate on a 22" radius curve but recommends 24" or larger. From personal experience, I was able to run them on 22" radius curves but with limited success and the overhang really made the car stick out like a sore thumb. I've found the Kadee #5 couplers worked fine for me but, again because I was originally running them on a 22" radius, they would have a tendancy to push cars coupled to them off the track from time to time.

Hope that helps.

Brian