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turnouts
turnouts
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
turnouts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Friday, August 5, 2005 3:47 PM
what turnouts do i need to run challengers and FEF-3 ( and other ) 4-8-4s?
And maybe a big boy a little later[:)]
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Friday, August 5, 2005 3:55 PM
My RIvarossi Challenger will go over stub switches....ALOT faster than it ought to. LOL. Live long and prosper.
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selector
Member since
February 2005
From: Vancouver Island, BC
23,330 posts
Posted by
selector
on Friday, August 5, 2005 4:56 PM
It depends. (AAaarrgghhh!!)
Are you talking yard or main? What are your smallest curves on your main? Are you likely to crack the throttle to see what the beast can do (and to test your track-laying ability and its durability)?
Personally, nothing less than #6's,but a lot longer if I were to let 'er rip through them at 50 scale mph and better.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Friday, August 5, 2005 5:43 PM
Both yard and main all i have right now is a test track on a 4x8 with 22 curves. they will both go through atlas snap switches at full speed but dont look very good doing it.I would be greatful for any advice i can get thanks.
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selector
Member since
February 2005
From: Vancouver Island, BC
23,330 posts
Posted by
selector
on Friday, August 5, 2005 5:56 PM
Ok, snap switches of what length, or for what radius? I would get the longest ones available, or otherwise the ones that would be a good match for your curves...especially if your locos are going to go directly from turnout to curves.
So, ask your supplier for a long turnout, something like a divergence of one unit for each ten units of travel. That will look better, and feel better, for your big engines.
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railroadyoshi
Member since
March 2005
From: Eastern Massachusetts
1,681 posts
Posted by
railroadyoshi
on Friday, August 5, 2005 6:20 PM
selector, Atlas only manufactures one type of snap switch, which is a 18 inch radius diverging route turnout. of course, these are unrealistic for anything as they are sharper than a #4 turnout
if you want realism and efficiency, #6 would be good
remember, in the real world, #10's are commonly used
i believe there is a formula in one of the MR books (basic guide to model railroading i believe it was) that had a formula for the max speed a loco should go through a given turnout:
6+2x where x equals the turnout number
for a #6 turnout: 6+(2 times 6)=18mph
someone correct me if im wrong about the basic formula
for example
Yoshi "Grammar? Whom Cares?"
http://yfcorp.googlepages.com
-Railfanning
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UNIONPACIFIC4018
Member since
June 2005
From: Wylie, Texas
259 posts
Posted by
UNIONPACIFIC4018
on Friday, August 5, 2005 6:42 PM
Well I am modeling UP and I plan on using #10's for crossovers and #8's in the yard.
38" radius on my curves
Sean Steam is still king
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Friday, August 5, 2005 7:30 PM
what company makes # 8 and #10s?code 100 B T W
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UNIONPACIFIC4018
Member since
June 2005
From: Wylie, Texas
259 posts
Posted by
UNIONPACIFIC4018
on Friday, August 5, 2005 7:36 PM
code 100 not sure
but I know code 83 new DCC stuff being done has them.
Sean Steam is still king
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IRONROOSTER
Member since
June 2003
From: Culpeper, Va
8,204 posts
Posted by
IRONROOSTER
on Friday, August 5, 2005 8:32 PM
BK Enterprises makes them http://www.troutcreekeng.com/bkho.html but not RTR. You have to spike them to the ties.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Friday, August 5, 2005 8:43 PM
thanks for the link Ironrooster
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rexhea
Member since
July 2004
From: Southeast U.S.A.
851 posts
Posted by
rexhea
on Friday, August 5, 2005 8:44 PM
My Lionel Challenger and other steamers do just fine with #6's for the mainline and tighter switches in the yard. BUT! Slow it down for any switch and the smaller the number...the slower. You really need to be slow and easy for a #4. Never HighBall through a switch.
I have tried to stay with #6 mainline and #5 for other places. (Walthers' Shinohara)
REX
Rex "Blue Creek & Warrior Railways" http://www.railimages.com/gallery/rexheacock
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Friday, August 5, 2005 8:52 PM
#6 is what i was thinking from what i read here atlas is not the one's to use. do you know witch kadee to put on the front of the challenger? thanks again
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rexhea
Member since
July 2004
From: Southeast U.S.A.
851 posts
Posted by
rexhea
on Friday, August 5, 2005 9:06 PM
I do have a few #6 Atlas and they work just fine. I do not like the #4's at all. Every one that I have bought has warped stock rails.
I haven't installed a coupler on my Challenger yet, but I think there was a post on this not long ago. Hopefully, someone else can answer that and we will both know.[:)]
REX
Rex "Blue Creek & Warrior Railways" http://www.railimages.com/gallery/rexheacock
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