Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage Chip, 1) You should be able to but it isn't necessary. I used black heat shrink to concentrate the beam through the headlight lense. 2) Yes - Blue wire (+) goes to the anode (longer) 3) Blue - #7, Yellow - #2 Tom
QUOTE: What I did was pull the decoder then insert DC powered probes into the the DCC socket where blue and yellow lead are attatched. The LED lights.
QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage Chip, Did you check for any cold solder joints? They are notorious for causing these kinds of problems. Be sure that all your joints are nice and shiney. If there is one that is dull in appearance, that may be the culprit. Add a wee bit of flux to the joint and reheat. Also, check for a good solder joint between your anode and resistor. You can also test the LED directly with a 9V battery, but the LED has to have the resistor solder inline or it will go poof. Tom
QUOTE: Originally posted by ironpenguin QUOTE: What I did was pull the decoder then insert DC powered probes into the the DCC socket where blue and yellow lead are attatched. The LED lights. I don't think that's telling you anything except the LED is good. It doesn't say the decoder is powering the LED correctly.
QUOTE: What you need to do is get back to a known working point and start again from there. I'd suggest desoldering the LED and replace it with a bulb and verify that that works.
QUOTE: If it does, then you know the decoder is powering something.
QUOTE: Next re-install the LED, but use some surplus/excess wire that you can cut. Wire the LED as before and test. Don't hold it while you're testing. If it doesn't work, reverse the wiring and see if that works. If that fails, try another LED. Hope this helps, Mike Tennent
QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole The headlight connects to the WHITE and BLUE wires; the rear light to the YELLOW and BLUE. Blue is the common for both headlight and backup light. If you intend to use directioinal lighting where only one LED is on at any one time, you need only one resistor provided you put it in the blue lead.
QUOTE: Originally posted by ironpenguin Man, I'm scratching my head on this one. [:)] OK, the front LED works, right? So take it out and use it for the rear light. You know it works, so if it doesn't work in the rear, you'll know it's not the LED. Mike Tennent
QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole Methinks it's time to tell the guys at the club to buzz off and mind their own business, and not criticize you because a headlight doesn't work. Just tell them the bulb is burned out and the shop crew doesn't have a replacement on hand. But it's on order.... If I had to put up with comments like that from members of the club I belong to, I think I'd be packing up my trains and looking elsewhere.