Best switcher for the money

[Anonymous]

Since my layout has tons of switching, I need to purchase a couple of switch engines. Im not talking about GPs and I already have a critter, 44 tonner, and a little 0-6-0. Im looking for a good quality, reasonably priced switcher of the SW or NW type size. Sound is not a necessity, but its neat, so if you like the BLI switchers go ahead and post that too.

Thanks[:D]

[simon1966]

I really like my Atlas S2. They are older models, but well made and easy to convert to DCC. Smooth quiet runners. The P2K models are good also. I am not as happy with my Athearns, but then they cost a lot less. I got a BLI one also and had a few tracking problems. One truck would not turn correctly. Turned out to be a trapped wire.

[nfmisso]

P2K. Stewart, Atlas,. or Walthers (SW1 or H10/12-44)

[Anonymous]

I like my Atlas Classic S1, my Stewart S8 and my P2K SW9.

[aloco]

I've owned various brands and types of diesel switchers in HO scale, and I would say that my Life-Like GM switchers are the best running locos. They are geared down for slow speed and the motors are very similar to the smooth running Kato motors found in the early Atlas RS units. If you want to use them with DCC, NCE (North Coast Engineering) makes a decoder that is a direct replacement for the existing circuit board.

[Anonymous]

For the money I would say Atlas. I have Atlas and Broadway. The Atlas can pull a lot more than the Broadway.

[Anonymous]

The walther Sw1 is a good little switcher i have 3 of them, pretty heavy and pretty good runners.

[oleirish]

I have three kato EMD-nw-2's(in S.P. colors)and and two anthrens An sw1500,and a sw-7cow.The three KATO's are excellant runers and workers,they are quite,heavy,and reliable.The two anthrens(BLUE BOX) are ok.but to light.I have pulled 29 cars so far with one KATO.I got all three of my KATOs from E-BAY for under $50.00 apeace.
[^] Jim

[BRAKIE]

While I have several brands of switchers my favorite remains a old Athearn SW7.Of course this unit has seen many years of service and is quiet and well worn in.

[tstage]

Joe,

Without doubt, the P2K Alco S1 switcher from Trainworld.com. Regularly $110 MSRP, it can be had for $29.99 - $39.99 - depending on road name.

GREAT details and VERY smooth low speed for switching. Mine absolutely crawls! The only downside to the P2K S1 is that if you wan to install in a decoder, you'll need to isolate the motor from the frame. Even so, still the best $29.99 I've spent to date on a locomotive!

I just bought a Stewart Baldwin VO-660 switcher with decoder and replacement golden-white LEDs for under $100 from Empire Northern Models. Tim Smith is the owner and I let him do the back headlight LED installation because he had the jig to make the job easier. He installed that and the decoder - NO extra charge. [:)]

The Stewart drive in the VO-660 is a Canon so it runs smoothly and quietly - not quite as smooth as my S1 but still nice. (I'm using a Bachmann EZ Command DCC system to run my layout so I don't have the capability to tweak the CVs. I would suspect the smoothness to get better if I could.)

Anyhow, I hope that helps...

Tom

[rexhea]

HO: My Stewart VO-660 with an NCE decoder is by far the strongest switcher I have. My P2k, S1with an N scale NCE decoder is probably the smoothest.

I have a BLI SW7 with very good sound (adding to the fun), but because of its weight is not quite as strong as the others. It is still ideal for yard work and can handle a dozen cars on flat track.

I would recommend any of the above.

REX [:)]

[tstage]

Rex,

I always knew you had good taste in switchers...[:)]

Tom

[orsonroy]

My favorite switchers are my P2K 0-6-0s, 0-8-0s and S-1s.

[ndbprr]

If you are into kits the old Hobbytown swtcher chassis is a classic. Sideframes aren't quite up to snuff but if you build the kit you can update the sideframes. coupled with a can motor they will outcraw nearly everything but definitely not for the I have to have it today crowd. Then you can pop the EMD shell of choice on top.

[rexhea]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage

Rex,

I always knew you had good taste in switchers...[:)]

Tom

Now, if I can just figure out how to put sound in the VO and S1. Maybe hire the little people that mess things up on my layout after midnight. [(-D] [:D]

REX

[Anonymous]

Sorry Athearn gets my vote. The level of detail is not quite as good but the price you can't beat. A SW7 cost $45 or so.

[Anonymous]

where would you get a hobbytown kit?

[tstage]

QUOTE: Originally posted by GP_38-2

Sorry Athearn gets my vote. The level of detail is not quite as good but the price you can't beat. A SW7 cost $45 or so.

Sorry, GP_38-2. Still doesn't beat $29.99 for a P2K S1.

QUOTE: Originally posted by rexhea
Now, if I can just figure out how to put sound in the VO and S1. Maybe hire the little people that mess things up on my layout after midnight. [(-D] [:D]

REX

Rex,

I think we'd have a better chance of getting hit by lightning than getting sound in either one. Although I haven't measured it, I think the VO-660 might have a little more room under the hood than the S1. Alas, probably not enough though...[:(]

Tom

[Anonymous]

My SW9 from P2K ran great before I converted it to DCC and with the NCE decoder and some imagination concerning wiring the lights it runs great on DCC too.

Bob DeWoody

[Anonymous]

I have two Atlas Classic RS1's and they are great little runners. I heard that Con-Cor has good ones too. I'm looking for a SW9

[WSOR 3801]

I took a Con-cor SW7 with the Kato drive and put a Cary SW1500 shell on it. Runs nice and pulls good. Cary also made all-metal Alco S1 and FM H10-44 shells, to fit Athearn or Hobbytown drives. If you want to pull the walls down with your switcher, that is the way to go.

Atlas S2 and Walthers H10-44 are both heavy, geared down and can pull a good string of cars.

[Meyblc]

I'll have to agree with several of the posts above about the older Atlas (Roco) S-2's and S-4's. I have 2 of them for my B&M layout and they are great. They are heavy little engines that are built like tanks. They pull hard. I just converted both of them to DCC with a new decoder that NCE makes specifically for the Atlas S series switchers. These decoders even came with LED's as part of the kit.

I also have several of the P2K SW800's and SW1200's painted up in B&M, they are nice as well. Not as heavy as the Atlas (Roco) switchers, but very nice detailing from the factory.

Lastely I have several of the Atlas RS3's and they run great and are easy to convert to DCC.

[BRAKIE]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jadormdrache

where would you get a hobbytown kit?

Try www.bearlocomotive.com or e bay as they do show up there.

Guys,For a perfect switcher use a P2K SW shell on a Athearn drive.

[Anonymous]

Sounds like the P2K might be the one for me. I like the sound of $29.99[:D]. Ill also look at the stewart and atlas though. As far as a kit goes, I love building locos. But I already have several engine kits sitting around that need building. Im neglecting the kits while I get the layout running.

[dinwitty]

QUOTE: Originally posted by WSOR 3801

I took a Con-cor SW7 with the Kato drive and put a Cary SW1500 shell on it. Runs nice and pulls good. Cary also made all-metal Alco S1 and FM H10-44 shells, to fit Athearn or Hobbytown drives. If you want to pull the walls down with your switcher, that is the way to go.

Atlas S2 and Walthers H10-44 are both heavy, geared down and can pull a good string of cars.

thats your good deal to do when you want a small engine to really pull,

I have al old Athearn SW-7 cow and calf, both Earnst regeared for SLOW performance.

I have the LifeLike 0-8-0 and it has great slow speed performance.

[espeefoamer]

I have a Con Cor MP15,and Athearn SW1500,and Baldwin S12.The S12 could pull the wallpaper off the wall[8D].

[jeffshultz]

I don't know how it's gonna show up under "value" but I can't wait to see the MP15DC's that Atlas is coming out with.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by espeefoamer

I have a Con Cor MP15,and Athearn SW1500,and Baldwin S12.The S12 could pull the wallpaper off the wall[8D].

I should HOPE so !!!

It SHOULD pull the WALL down, too !!!! [:0]

And how did you get one of the real Baldwins, anyhoo ?????

And how much did it cost ??????? [;)] [:o)]

(I assume you meant you had a STEWART S12 ???? [:D] )

Yeah - the Stewarts have great drives !!!

[Anonymous]

Another consideration MIGHT be the road and time era you are modeling - this might help you determine which of the several great switcher models listed above to go with.

[dacort]

I have a Kato NW-2 that is an excellent runner and very strong. At low speeds it's so quiet it's almost silent. Putting a decoder in it was a pain, because there's not much room in there, but worth it. I also have a BLI NW-2 that sounds really cool and runs well, but it doesn't pull much of anything. It won't go quite as slow as the Kato, either. My solution is to just use them as a pair.

I also have an Athearn BB SW1500 that looks great but doesn't run very smoothly. I've remotored and tuned it and it's still not great. I haven't given up on it yet, but for the moment it's a dust collector.

I preordered two of the Atlas MP15's at my hobby shop, hopefuly by the time they arrive I'll have funds to pay for them. :) I don't have any other Atlas switchers, but I have some of their larger locomotives, and they're great.