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Best tool for cutting out die-cast metal

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  • Member since
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  • From: Virginia
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Best tool for cutting out die-cast metal
Posted by knewsom on Monday, June 13, 2005 9:21 PM
I have an old Mantua 2-8-2 that I want to convert to DCC. I bought the Helix-Humper drop in replacement for this engine, but it turns out it is not really a drop in for the one that I have. In order to get it to fit I will need to remove about a 1/2 inch of diecast metal from the boiler of the loco. What is the best tool for performing this type of operation. I have a craftsman rotary tool (dremel) but I am not sure which bit to use for this type of cutting.

Any suggestions?
Thanks, Kevin
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 13, 2005 9:24 PM
can you break the glue? then you could just cut it up. After you cut out the wieght glue it somewhere else otherwise the performance of the locomotive will go down.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 13, 2005 10:09 PM
My wife used a Dremel tool and diamond cutting bits when replacing the motors in her N-scale Rivarossi Big Boys and when modifying frames to accept decoders in her N-scale locos. Not bad in N-scale, but for removing large amounts in HO scale you will use up more than one bit in the process!
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Posted by knewsom on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 9:04 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by GP_38-2

can you break the glue? then you could just cut it up. After you cut out the wieght glue it somewhere else otherwise the performance of the locomotive will go down.


GP_38-2,

Actually this is one of the earlier versions where the whole boiler is diecast. There is no plastic on the model, except for the cab. So I need to remove some of the metal, but since it is so much I am not sure of the best way to go about it.

Thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks, Kevin
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Posted by cwclark on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 9:10 AM
I use a dremel tool with small bits..it works good for hogging out metal..just remember to wear gloves because it gets really hot if you hold it with your hands...after I take out some of the metal, i'll file it smooth with jeweler's files and sometimes, sand paper...chuck

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Posted by jsoderq on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 9:12 AM
Seriuosly, the best thing to do is make friends with a guy at the local machine shop willing to moonlight this kind of stuff for you. Diecast is nasty stuff because it is not uniformly hard so the bit grabs from time to time. Any more than a slight amount of material to remove is a good job for a pro who has the tools, bits, vises etc and the experience not to get hurt doing this. If the guy will moonlight, it won't cost an arm and leg.
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Posted by tstage on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 9:41 AM
I agree. A milling machine would do a great job and quick work at this. Find a friend, as jsoderq suggested, buy him a new carbide endmil, and let him go to work.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by selector on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 12:04 PM
I agree with the last two fellers. You're looking to alter a fair-sized chunk of metal, and hobby tools will be somewhat inadequate. Find a machine shop, plead insanity (or trains), and I'll bet someone will run it through a machine for the 30 seconds it'll take.
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Posted by nfmisso on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 12:05 PM
Milling machine.

As jsoderq mentions, it is not uniform. Both the tool and the part need to be clamp appropriately. You might be able to get away with a good drill press and vice with a carbide mill, but you would probably turn the good drill press into a junked one.

You may be thinking about buying the Dremel drill press attachment for your moto-tool. This is not a good idea for this job, as the moto-tool's spindle bearings are not equipped to handle the loads imposed.

Even this little mill will do the job:
http://www.emachinetool.com/new/catalog/vertical.cfm?DestinationCategory=Mini%20%26%20CNC%20Vertical%20%20Mill&ProductID=719
You will need a vice for it, and other accessories, figure an additional $100 to $150.

I have one, and am very pleased with it for light model railroad work.

Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 1:11 PM
I've used Dremel high-speed cutting heads #115 and #134 with good results, while holding the boiler by hand (wearing thick welder's gloves!). Done outside (due to all the metal chips that fly everywhere, you're looking at about a five minute per boiler project.

I really wouldn't bother with a mill, unless you already have access to one. For this sort of non-critical material removal, a Dremel tool and your hands are all that's needed.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by Bob Hayes on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 1:37 AM
A Sherline milling machine is your best bet for this and all the other times you will want to remove metal from hard to get at places.

Bob Hayes
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Posted by nfmisso on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 5:43 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Hayes

A Sherline milling machine ......


There are several competitors to Sherline, each has its advantages and dis-advantages.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 10:05 AM
If a milling machine isn't available, a die-grinder and carbide cutting bit will do the job.
Your favorite auto repair garage should have one .

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