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Bowser locos

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Bowser locos
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 11:07 AM
Has anyone out there built (or tried to) a Bowser Challenger or ten-wheeler? Looking at a blowup on their site scared me so badly I bought an old Varney instead. Is their Challenger that bad too? I think I could build their 4-6-0 but it would probably take me a month and I would have to buy some taps and dies. Any comments?
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  • From: Mpls/St.Paul
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Posted by wjstix on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 11:36 AM
When I started in HO in the late eighties I bought a Bowser 2-8-0 kit, never did get it more than about half finished. I got it fairly far along but could never get it to run even halfway decently. Suppose someday I could go back and add a can motor and convert it to DCC and see if I could get it to run that way. But a lot easier to just go buy a Spectrum 2-8-0 !!
Stix
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 11:49 AM
If you want the challenge (no pun intended) of building your own steam locomotive then I believe Bowser is your best choice. There is something to be said for seeing something you built run along the tracks. I've been planning to do just that but I will start with one of the simpler locomotives (usually cheaper too). Several members of the local club I belong to have built Bowser kits and even though they say they are not easy it is possible to end up with a very nice model. You will want to buy the super detailing parts along with it or it won't look very good alongside a modern Bachmann or P2K steamer.

Bob DeWoody
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  • From: San Jose, California
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Posted by nfmisso on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 12:23 PM
Adding to Bob's comments.

Start with one of these two:
http://www.bowser-trains.com/holoco_ol.php
http://www.bowser-trains.com/holoco_ol.php

They are actually former Varney kits.

Then graduate to one of the non-articulated kits, like the USRA Mountain, before attempting the Challenger.

Bowser locomotives can be made to run very well. Patience is not only a virtue, but a requirement. Follow the instructions, especially the parts about testing at each assembly level, and making sure things are smooth before proceeding.

If it does not run well with the stock motor, it will not run any better with a can motor.

Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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  • From: Culpeper, Va
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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 7:31 PM
Many years ago I built a Bowser K4 Pacific. It was my first locomotive kit. I did not find it very difficult at all. While there a lot of parts with patience and care you should not have any trouble. If I hadn't left HO, I would build them all.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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  • From: Poconos, PA
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Posted by TomDiehl on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 8:26 PM
The first thing about assembling ANY brand locomotive kit is, you aren't going to do it overnight. This is a long process that requires a lot of patience. I've assembled two of Bowser's kits, a K-4 Pacific and an M-1a Mountain. They took a while to build each of them. As far as performance, the Spectrum engines can't hold a candle to them. Because of their weight on drivers, the pulling power is outstanding, probably close to the prototype.

If you want something simpler to start with, go to Ebay and see if you can find an old Mantua or Tyco steam loco kit. These are easier to assemble than the Bowser, run and pull great, and have a lot less detail to worry about, especially for a first effort. You can always add Cal-Scale or other details later.

One deviation from the instructions on all of them, don't trust the self tapping screws to do the job. Buy a couple small taps and regular screws and ALWAYS tap the holes first. Use cutting or tapping oil when tapping a hole in metal. Also, buy a bottom tap for the blind holes (holes that don't go all the way through). With proper care, the taps should last through several loco kit assemblies.

Don't be afraid of the kit and don't let the exploded diagram scare you. The step-by-step instructions will break the job down into several smaller assemblies. Remember, take your time and enjoy, and especially remember, this is supposed to be fun.
Smile, it makes people wonder what you're up to. Chief of Sanitation; Clowntown
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  • From: San Jose, California
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Posted by nfmisso on Wednesday, June 8, 2005 6:53 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by TomDiehl

One deviation from the instructions on all of them, don't trust the self tapping screws to do the job. Buy a couple small taps and regular screws and ALWAYS tap the holes first. Use cutting or tapping oil when tapping a hole in metal. Also, buy a bottom tap for the blind holes (holes that don't go all the way through). With proper care, the taps should last through several loco kit assemblies.

Excellent advice Tom. It is worth getting your taps from MSC or another industrial supply company. They will last a lot longer. A well cared for high quality tap will last for hundreds to thousands of holes. Make sure that the hole is the correct size for tapping, and use lubrication. If practical, drill through holes for tapping. This is not always practical. The advantage of a through hole is that it gives a place for the chips to go, and is much easier to clean.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, June 8, 2005 12:23 PM
Thanks, folks, for the input. I already have 3 4-6-0s but I can always use another. I think sometime soon, budget permitting, I'll try a Bowser kit. Patience I have plenty of, skill is average. I've put together an old panhead Harley and a VW bug motor but that is a little different. I think I can manage though. Thanks again.

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