H-O Scale Kaydee #312 Uncoupler--HELP!!!

[trainnut57]

I have been attempting to install the Magnamatic non-delayed uncoupler by Kaydee for many moons on my layout. If I follow the directions, cut out the ties and mount on the subsequent exposed roadbed, the top of the magnet is BELOW the rail rather than the 1/64" ABOVE the rail required in the instructions. I then tried mounting the magnet directly on the ties which appeared to be better, putting the top of the magnet (visibly) slightly above the height of the rail, but I have no way of measuring 1/64th of an inch. Sometimes the uncoupler works, but tomorrow it may not with the same cars. I also use the Kaydee coupler height gauge and adjust the pins accordingly. I do not use Kaydee couplers, rather I use McHenry with the spring loads. What am I doing wrong? Granted I am in a position where I cannot spend a lot of money on these projects, but shouldn't the Magnamatics work?

[rrinker]

If you have the Kadee coupler gauge, the ACTUAL Kadee one - you see that hole behind the coupler with the pin in it? This is used to check the magnet mounting. When the magnet is the proper height, that pin will be flush with the top of the gauge when you set the gauge on top of the magnet.
The magnets are made for code 100 track - usually it comes out right just sitting it ont he ties. With code 70 rail, it usually works out when you cut the ties. They never planned it around Code 83, so it takes a bit of finagling to get the correct height. The best thing is probably to cut the ties and then shim the magnet up to the correct height. The non-delayed ones are a bit more fussy because they are so narrow - it also has to be centered fairly well.If the track curves at that point, you may have to move the magnet to the outside of the curve, and even then there are no guarantees.

--Randy

[trainnut57]

Thanks Randy. Yes I have the actual Kaydee coupler height gauge. I have it permanatnly attached to a piece of test track mounted on a chunk of wood, but can easily remove it to utilize the pin you mentioned. I also forgot to mention I do use Code 100 track. THANKS again, I will definitely give it a try.

[cwclark]

I have had better luck with the mchenry uncouplers..they are longer and have a metal plate that fits under them to enhance the magnatism..you'll have to remove the cork roadbed and hog out about 1/16" of subroadbed to get them to fit but you won't have to remove the ties and they work great with kadee couplers...check out my web picture album and it explains how i mounted them..click the next button to advance to the next picture with explanations... http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/168986987VwofYq chuck

[Beowulf]

I've been mounting Kadee between the rail magnets flush with the railheads for decades as I found the gearboxes on some models had very little clearance above the rails. (Especially brass trolleys.) I cut out the ties so the magnet sits BELOW the rail heads, put a dollop of silicon sealant into the hole, insert the magnet, and place a piece of steel across the rails. (Like an Athearn-style car weight). The magnet sticks to the steel and automatically becomes perfectly aligned with the railheads. No fussy shiming. Once set, silicon sealant can be pulled apart and scraped off if you change your mind.

Be sure your magnets are fresh. "Bargains" at a flea market might be decades old and I've fouind when trying to re-use magnets from the 1960's that they definitely loose strength.

For new construction, consider under-the-tie magnets. They are worth the extra cost.

[Jetrock]

I use the cut-out-the-ties method, but my magnets are normally located in places where the rails are in streets and thus the magnet will be covered by styrene. I use bits of sheet styrene to shim up the magnet if it is too low.