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fading the paint

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  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: IL
  • 209 posts
fading the paint
Posted by XG01X on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 1:08 AM
I have a Athearn Cf7 that is just too pretty. So its time for some heavy weathering! Anybody got some good tips to get it grimey?
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,642 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 5:55 AM

Hey TravyG.

You didn't indicate if you had an airbrush or if you were using paint brushes.

Anyway, if I may suggest. Start with the underbody (trucks and fuel tank) first.  Depending on the job (and my mood) I use either paint brushes or the airbrush.

Here's an easy method using modelers paint brushes, Polly Scale paint, and a small tray or jar.: In less than 2 minutes I get some super results!

Take Polly Scale or any other waterbased Gray Primer or White. Pour a small amount into a tiny tray. For the amount you pour in, thin it 75% (1 part paint, 3 parts distilled water).

Do the same with Polly Scale Rust in another tray or jar. What you just created is called a "Paint Wash". It's very thin!

Now, gently pry off the side frames off of your CF7 with a flat blade screwdriver. The sideframes are held in place with two molded on pins, so be gentle. Once you have all 4 side frames, dip your paint brush into the gray wash and vertically stroke the wash on your sideframes in a downward motion. Then do the same thing with the Rust colored wash. Use the same paint brush. Yes, you will want to use the same brush!

You will see the paint wash run into every tiny nook and cranny on your sideframes. Don't worry if at first they look "weird" and "splottchy". Allow to dry, and two minutes later you will see some very cool results when they dry! Big SmileCoolThumbs Up (If you use 70% alcohol, they dry even faster). The key is to use vertical strokes, as you want to simulate the effects of rain---everything runs downward! After the first coating has dried, you can determine if you want more weathering. Repeat the above steps by alternating between the wash colors.

If satisfied with the truck sideframes, apply vertical washes to your fuel tank and other underbody areas. Take your time, and allow the 1 to 2 minutes for each coat to dry. You can make it as light or "Severe" as you want.

Now, wipe the locomotive's wheels with a cotton ball or cloth soaked with alcohol to remove any oil residue. Then, carefully apply the wash to the locomotive's wheel sides. Clean off any wash that hits the wheel tread and the center axle pin, as these must stay clean for electrical pickup.

Use a size #1 paint brush and run a narrow streak of Gloss Clear from the fuel filler cap, downward to simulate diesel fuel splashes that run down the side after each time the hosler removes the fuel pump hose .

After your first job, you'll be surprised at how easy this is and yet so effective for just a few minutes of work. Do the same thing with your freight cars.

After my first job, I was amazed at how many compliments I've received when visitors look at my HO equipment.

I read about this method years ago in an MRR issue.

Peace!

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: IL
  • 209 posts
Posted by XG01X on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 1:16 AM
Thanks Antonio
I'm going with brushes and hopefully I'll get the time to try it this weekend
  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Phoenix, Arizona
  • 1,989 posts
Posted by canazar on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 1:29 AM
Uh yeah, what he says..[;)][#ditto]

I was going to try and give my 2 cents in, but he covered te whole bill and got the tip.

Johnk

Best Regards, Big John

Kiva Valley Railway- Freelanced road in central Arizona.  Visit the link to see my MR forum thread on The Building of the Whitton Branch on the  Kiva Valley Railway

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