Couplers

[Anonymous]

I have a local hobby store going out of business near me. I have already been in there buying up stuff for my layout, and track items, but I have a question.

I have read somewhere that nearly all couplers need to be replaced, right out of the box. In that case, what do I replace them with? The local store has Kaydee and Kato magnetic and non magnetic couplers in different sizes. Which ones would you guys be all over and buying if it was you?

BTW, I'm getting back into trains after more than 25 years, so no layout is being worked on (I'm still wrangling room from the wife!) and I haven't decided if I'm going to do a prototype or freelance layout.

Anyway, I figured if anyone could answer my question, it would be you guys.

[cacole]

The Kadee #5 coupler is a universal replacement for most rolling stock and locomotives, so you can't go wrong if you scarf up all of them.

[retsignalmtr]

stick with the kaydee's. the #5's will fit most cars and locos but some cars and engines will be over or under the correct height for the #5's. there are several couplers made by kaydee that are under set or over set to make up the difference so you won't have to put shims between the truck and the floor of the cars.

[ericboone]

Actually, if your starting from scratch, skip the #5s and go straight to the #58s. They're closer to scale size and work great.

[cwclark]

I've been using the Kadee #5 for many years and wouldn't change it for any other brand...Chuck

[Anonymous]

Replacing horn hook couplers that come with most equipment with knuckle style couplers is a very good idea. Lately, manufacturers have been supplying the knuckle couplers with their products.
Kadee number 5's fit almost everything, but it won't hurt to buy a few other size couplers (long shanks, short shanks, under set, over set...ect.). You also should get a coupler height gauge too. Here is some more information on HO MAGNETIC COUPLERS
Uh, you are talking about HO scale right?

[Virginian]

KD # 5's have been my standby for a looooong time, but I am becoming more fond of the McHenrys with the metal springs as time goes by. The KD's are great, but I don't need to hang 12 pounds on mine like the ad, and the McH's don't scream as loud for paint immediately, and money is still money. And, I haven't broken one in quite awhile now.

[Anonymous]

The question now is no longer KD, but should it be the 5's or 58's? so now the issue could
become just a little confusing. The 58 has a smaller coupler head/face and closer to scale but?
Here' a site .
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/couplers.html

The #5 mates well with the #58 BUT the 58 does not come in any other series , 20-30-40 series.
These series include the underset and overset couplers should your locos/cars require a special fitting coupler. These series includes different shank lengths & head heights

When a #58 coupler is mated with a underset or overset on less than perfect track, this larger head
coupler may climb right out of the 58.
The height of the #5 knuckle and the off sets is .250" and the #58 knuckle is.210" , just enough to
uncouple on un-even track or at the crest of a grade.

[betsy662]

Even in O scale we use Kadee couplers, I have some HO as well, but for my O scale, which is my main scale, I use both Kadee and Weaver couplers, for my HO, I use Kadee number 5's..........[8][8][8]

[NHRRJET]

I agree, the ONLY couplers are Kadee!! Those plastic "copies" are pathetic! What I have also found disturbing is the lack of uniformity between manufacturers relative to uniform coupler heights. . They seem to be about as standard as bumper heights. With today's technologies there is no excuse for this. There are NMRA standards.

[Don Gibson]

I hope you're talKing HO.

KAYDEE has AN ASSORTMENT PACKAGE - some of each - I'D GO FOR THAT FIRST. - They also have packages of #5's (#11?) Save $$.
If you like Passenger BUY some #46's
(For freight it's the #5's)

Add on's: A Coupler Gage (a must)
A spring 'Pik'
Extra springs
Extra washers (both sizes) 1 ea.

[Anonymous]

Hey, thanks alot.

So, the consensus seems to be Kaydee #5's. Hopefully, I can get there in time to get them. I'll probably get a smattering of other ones as well and experiment with what I like best. But, at least now, I have a start.

Oh yeah, all of this is HO scale.

Thanks again for the replies.

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tlangham

Hey, thanks alot.

So, the consensus seems to be Kaydee #5's. Hopefully, I can get there in time to get them. I'll probably get a smattering of other ones as well and experiment with what I like best. But, at least now, I have a start.

Oh yeah, all of this is HO scale.

Thanks again for the replies.

Make sure you pick up a Kadee #205 hieght guage, and I would pick up as many #13 sampler packs as they have for those cars and locomotives that do not work with #5s.

Note, the spelling is Kadee; no Y; see:
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page24.htm

#5 http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page47.htm
#13 http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page54.htm

[gmpullman]

Kadee is the way to go. I remove all of the plastic imitation couplers that now come with many RTR cars and engines.
I had a cut of tank cars stored on a grade once and the couplers were of course, in compression and all of those worthless whiskers that act as knuckle springs lost their tension and I had nothing but troubles with them.
Anybody want a lunch bag full of sleazy-mates?
Hats off to Broadway Limited who is now including genuine Kadees on many of their newer releases!
The "real" coupler springs on the plastic couplers help a little but I still have break-in-twos occasionally with them.
I DO use the McHenry conversions on Rivarossi passenger cars as they are an OK compromise...
Ed

[AntonioFP45]

I considered going to KD #58, but I'll stick with the #5s.

As a friend of mine pointed out, when trains are running on a layout a lot of details become virtually unoticed.

Just my 2 cents!

Peace!

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

I considered going to KD #58, but I'll stick with the #5s.



Just my 2 cents!

Peace!

Is that already discounted or before?