Hi everyone, I hope your having a fun and safe Summer, my question is about weathering freight cars as well as locomotives, I dont have any space to set up or use a airbrush, so I heard about using powders and acyrilic paints, I would love to see pictures of your weatherd locomotives and freight, and how it is done. Take Care and I'm looking forward to getting help with this matter Trainsrme1
Hi TrainsRMe1!
Here's a couple photos of cars I've weathered:
Here's a link to a video that explains how I do the stock cars. Other cars are pretty much the same, though I do vary some of the detail weathering paints and chalks as appropriate for the car type and the commodity hauled.
Hint for weathering with chalks:
Brushing 70% alcohol all over the body of the model before adding chalks makes the chalk adhere better.
For motive power my weathering is even simpler - I give the unit to a friend who does it for me! (He uses an airbrush and I don't know what else).
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I have achieved rather pleasing results using Pan Pastel powders on locos, rolling stock, vehicles, track and structures. I'll have to try the alcohol wash technique to see whether that further improves the look of the Pan Pastels.
Hornblower
Pan Pastel powders on the NYC's walkways and a lighter touch on the cab roof an hoods.
Air brushed grim on the PC engine.
Pan Pastel powder on the ore cars and caboose.
Pan Pastel powder on the B&LE coil car.
This reply was made possible by the work of the IT people. THANK YOU.
And THANK YOU to the people at MR.
While this focuses on prewar rolling stock, there are some great tips on how to weather in this workshop
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXsEn9LJe-w&t=5s
An "expensive model collector"
Opps...that's a real photo. My bad.
Do yourself a favor. Go light until you get it right. It's easy to add a bit more grime or dirt or rust. It's much harder to take it off if you get too much. Weathering doesn't have to be done in a single evening. Take your time.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Evening
I'm looking at dumping another 8c, to get the sky blue Great Northern F7 AB units, and the 4023 big boy. The 4014 Kato Excursion big boy is too shiney.
I'd be too afraid to muck up those brand new loco's
TF
New York City Transit does not allow dirty, grungy, or grafittied trains. If a train is unclean it muct be taken out of service and cleaned. If they do not have a clean train to put into service thgen the run is annuled.
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Agreed
A good runner of any railroad, wouldn't let dirty cars be a participating factor of any part of their roster
Well, you could do what I did inadvertantly, leave a lokey exposed to a hostile environment for a period of time. Below is a pic of an Athearn heavy duty flat car that I left out somewhere. The natural effect was really nice on the deck, acsentuated by some weathering chaulks.
hornblower I'll have to try the alcohol wash technique to see whether that further improves the look of the Pan Pastels.
If you use Dullcote, you won't be happy when alcohol hits it.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I have tried the Pan Pastel method and am having a problem. Using the foam applicators the first touch to the object leaves line. After that everything works fine. Is the trick to touch something else first to even out what is on the foam applicator?
Rick
TrainsRMe1 Hi everyone, I hope your having a fun and safe Summer, my question is about weathering freight cars as well as locomotives, I dont have any space to set up or use a airbrush, so I heard about using powders and acyrilic paints, I would love to see pictures of your weatherd locomotives and freight, and how it is done. Take Care and I'm looking forward to getting help with this matter Trainsrme1
I used the method described in this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGlS6ZVQl6s&list=PL5Fc7Hc5wK_oZhL0XyrE_raDlfAG3l6ZD&index=6) to weather a switcher for a steel mill. Here is how it turned out:
If you like that video watch the other parts.
Edit: Here is the whole playlist. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5Fc7Hc5wK_oZhL0XyrE_raDlfAG3l6ZD
"I want my locos to look really Nasty & Grimey!!!!".
Why?.....A layout at the end of steam-power?
Wayne
Here is an Atlas S1 i wanted to look worn and weathered. I done this mostly with Rustall and chalks.
Here is a before and after of a weathering project i done for a friend (yes different number locos, i done 3 of them).
These are Scale Trains Rivet Counter and he wanted them lightly weathered, i have learnt that less is more and prefer that look. I must admit a heavily weathered locomotive always gets my attention.
With weathering I've always been of the opinion that less is more. It's way too easy to overdo it.
Here's a last photo of a 31-year old engine literally taken right before it left for scrap. CP apparently took great pride in keeping at least this one looking good even up till the end. There's only very subtle rust streaks in the battery areas and some minor dirt on most of the body, with of course moderately dirty trucks and undercarriage. Looks pretty good for 31 years (and on its second paint job).
CP 5940 (rrpicturearchives.net)
Based on a prototype.
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
I 'grew up' in the Penn-Central era. P-C was almost bankrupt before the first quarter financial reports were made. They certainly weren't going to spend lots of money on first-generation passenger equipment:
P-C_4090 E8a by Edmund, on Flickr
Actually I haven't begun to weather this E8 yet. This is the way I finished it from the paint booth.
P-C_4090 E8a-curve by Edmund, on Flickr
I experimented with water-soluable colored pencils from AK Interactive on this old Pacemaker box car. I toned down the rust a bit after the photo was taken by washing off the pencil lines a bit with water.
NYC_Pacemaker-weathered by Edmund, on Flickr
Another example of the panel line rust using the pencils:
NP_Ice_Refrigerator by Edmund, on Flickr
I do my weathering in batches of twenty cars or so when the mood strikes.
Weathering Cars-c by Edmund, on Flickr
Head-End_Dusty by Edmund, on Flickr
Some of the steps do involve an airbrush. It is very useful and the airbrushed DullCote is MUCH easier to control than the rattle can.
J1_Resting by Edmund, on Flickr
As others have mentioned, go lightly at first. Easy to add more than to try to take away later.
Good Luck, Ed
PRR8259 With weathering I've always been of the opinion that less is more. It's way too easy to overdo it.
Having over-weathered quite a few cars, I agree with this approach. Whatever method(s) you use, I suggest starting with a small amount, seeing how it looks and decide whether you need more.
Don't quote me but I believe it was Mingo Junction on the PRR. The shop foreman would pay train crews and relatives of railroad employees to wash and wax the locomotives. I don't know when it started but it ended in the 1930s.
Pete.
Just my experience, but the more arrows in your weathering quiver the better, as long as they fit your bow. Research and experimentation leads to finding what mediums and methods you like to work with. Be prepared to fail as part of the learning, and thoroughly explore a weathering product before committing to a large array. Deciding what levels of detail you wish to acheive can be determined as skills progress.
After viewing Mike Confalone's excellent Pan Pastel weathering tutorial videos my preference has been to apply and blend the pastels with brushes.
The military modelers have been masters at the weathering game for a long time and there's lots to learn from their techniques, especially the varied uses of oil paints and pigments.
The workhorse of my switching layout NW2 #2002 was weathered with enamel based pin washes, Pan Pastels, pigment powders, oil paints and paint pencils. Airbrush used only for applying Dullcote, which could also be accomplished via rattle can.
Been experimenting more with oils and making up my own panel line washes with the oils and thinner. So far I like the control, working time and reversibility of oils.
'So much to weather, so little time.' Regards, Peter
So many great examples shown here.
Yeah, I prefer light weathering as well. Probably because I'm pretty average when it comes to painting. I think it's a good practice to match your weathering with the other structures of your layout: grimy cars go well with grimy buildings.
I apply black washes to all of my rolling stock, using a mix of about 85% water, 15% black paint, with a few drops of alcohol to make is stick. Multiple coats are usually necessary - I use a small fan to allow each coat to dry quickly. For boxcars, I usually apply coats one side at a time - e.g., I will put the car on its side to apply a coat on the side facing up. Otherwise, gravity will over-emphasize the lower part of the car. A little goes a long way. It's a good idea to do it over a few days to study your results as they progress.
I brush paint the car trucks a grimy black color. Wheels get a dark rusty color (brown and burnt sienna mix). You can dry brush the trucks a light brown color to make them stand out a bit. Drivers on my steamers get painted a charcoal brown color, although I must admit having a preference for the airbrush for that part....
Test on ol' Tyco cars at first and have fun!
IMG_20230520_145555 on Flickr
Simon
hbgatsf I have tried the Pan Pastel method and am having a problem. Using the foam applicators the first touch to the object leaves line. After that everything works fine. Is the trick to touch something else first to even out what is on the foam applicator?
With Pan Pastels and Monroe Models weathering powders. I used the foam applicator once maybe twice. Now I use designated paint brushs for dark colors, light colors and the between colors.
I should say that you should wear a nose and mouth covering when doing powers. Or have a small slow fan like out of a computer to keep the powder dust moving away from you.
I try to weather power and rolling stock for it's age and location on the railroad. So a EMD GP9 would maybe look dirtier then an EMD SD45.
Powders are not the only items I use in weathing. Some are store bought and others are found in the outdoors.
I had been looking for the 'inspirational' photo for the Penn Central E8 I portrayed above.
Penn Central E-units, power for the Valparaiso train Chicago by Mark LLanuza, on Flickr
Yep, that's grimy all right.
Cheers, Ed