I have an engine that I'm doing a partial re-paint. In the 1980's GTW recieved three GP-38s from P&LE. GTW didn't repaint them right away, they just painted black over all the yellow and put a white GT noodle logo on the side. The problem is the model I bought has yellow handrails while the GTW version has white.
What is the best way to paint these handrails?
Who made the model? Handrails are sometimes made from materials that don't take normal paint well. Someone else here will likely know this and can provide better assistance.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasleyHandrails are sometimes made from materials that don't take normal paint well.
You're correct, as most of those plastic handrails don't take paint well, unless you can find paint meant for that type of plastic. Most of the diesels I had have been sold or given-away, but when I discovered that the paint wouldn't stick to most plastic handrails, I opted to remove the handrails, then drilled-out the stanchions to accept suitably-sized piano wire.The wire stands-up very well to handling, and readily accepts most types of paint.
Here are a few that were re-done using the piano wire (which is also more to-scale than many of the plastic handrails)...
...while these originally came with one-piece all hard-plastic handrails, grossly oversize. I replaced the stanchions with metal ones from Athearn. and made the handrails using piano wire
This one used the original Atlas plastic stanchions with piano wire handrails...
...while these, all from Athearn, used similar wire and metal stanchions
These, from Athearn, came with metal handrails at both ends, and very short ones at the sides of the steps. I used Athearn metal stanchions and piano wire to create full-length handrails on all four units...
While diesels don't fit very well into my late '30s modelling era, I very much regret selling-off diesel locomotives into which I had invested so many upgrades.
Wayne
I haven't tried it yet on model train handrails but Tamiya PS paints are made for polycarbonate plastic bodies used on RC and slot cars. It's made to flex with the bodies and not flake off.
The paint you need is the type that flex's. Pactra racing finish will do just that, can be brushed on. I have been using it for years........
http://www.hobbylinc.com/pactra-rc-acrylic-pearl-white-1-oz-hobby-and-model-acrylic-paint-rc5201
Take Care!
Frank
zstripe The paint you need is the type that flex's. Pactra racing finish will do just that, can be brushed on. I have been using it for years........ http://www.hobbylinc.com/pactra-rc-acrylic-pearl-white-1-oz-hobby-and-model-acrylic-paint-rc5201 Take Care! Frank
Me to since November 2002, what Frank said. But you can scratch at it and it will come off. It was made to be painted on the inside of the clear Lexan body RC cars.
This type of paint IIRC was mentioned in MR maybe back around 2002.
I have not tried the Tamiya brand paint yet.
I also do RC cars, rock crawlers in particular and have used both Pactra and Tamiya paints(as well as several other brands). Tamiya is more durable in that use and at least around here much easier to find. Tamiya also has a larger selection of colors.
zstripe
Rumpelhrdt,
I also do RC vehicles, 1/8, 1/14 and Tamiya paint. It's great for air-brushing but not too good for brushing in large sections. Although I don't have any of My own, I have 8 Grandkids, six of them boys that seem to always need some help. I have roughly over 150 1/87 scale trucks that I have built, along with construction vehicles. Many of them are white metal, pewter casting. I used to also rebuild and restore cars and trucks full size. My avatar is a 1973 Diamond Reo that I restored and painted and then drove everyday in the city for the Intermodel industry. I have been retired since 2004, so I'm up there in the yrs. but still going.
Bottom line, I think just about any of the polycarbonate specific paints might do the trick. They are formulated to bond better with plastic and to flex with it.
Now I must try Tamiya now and see the difference between the two, Tamiya and pactra by Testers.
I paint my handrails with Rust Oleum gray primer, which sticks to the deldrim hand rails. When dry I can paint my hand rails any color I wish and the paint sticks to the primer.
caldreamer I paint my handrails with Rust Oleum gray primer, which sticks to the deldrim hand rails. When dry I can paint my hand rails any color I wish and the paint sticks to the primer.
I have seen Rust-Oleum paint for plastic garden furniture but have never used it yet.
A lot of good ideas here.
NILE I have an engine that I'm doing a partial re-paint. In the 1980's GTW recieved three GP-38s from P&LE. GTW didn't repaint them right away, they just painted black over all the yellow and put a white GT noodle logo on the side. The problem is the model I bought has yellow handrails while the GTW version has white. What is the best way to paint these handrails?
Go to the local NAPA or AUTOZONE and pick up a can of Adhesion Promoter. Its what body shops and car enthusiasts use to prime their shiny/slippery plastic bumpers before painting. When sprayed on model train handrails, its such a flat finish that it dries in about 10 minutes.
Then use any rattle can paint. Preferrably Krylon flat white. Rattle can paint is very sticky, and when sprayed over the AP makes it very difficult to remove.
I've done this many times. Twist and bend the handrails later and no paint ever flicks off.
I never paint train models with gloss paint, Because I never want to end up with that new showroom finish. Gloss paints are a whole lot thicker than flat or satin sheens. It covers the details more and accumulates in the corners/crevices too much.
You can also remove the factory yellow paint by soaking the handrails in 90% alchohol overnight and gently scraping. Try a small test section first.
- Douglas
caldreamerI paint my handrails with Rust Oleum gray primer, which sticks to the deldrim hand rails. When dry I can paint my hand rails any color I wish and the paint sticks to the primer.
Did you by chance mean "delrin"?
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
To back up some of the previous posts......
I can attest that Pactra's Racing Finish "RC 50 - Outlaw Black" works beautifully on handrails that normally won't take/hold paint.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
PC101 zstripe The paint you need is the type that flex's. Pactra racing finish will do just that, can be brushed on. I have been using it for years........ http://www.hobbylinc.com/pactra-rc-acrylic-pearl-white-1-oz-hobby-and-model-acrylic-paint-rc5201 Take Care! Frank Me to since November 2002, what Frank said. But you can scratch at it and it will come off. It was made to be painted on the inside of the clear Lexan body RC cars. This type of paint FIRC was mentioned in MR maybe back around 2002. I have not tried the Tamiya brand paint yet.
This type of paint FIRC was mentioned in MR maybe back around 2002.
The article is in MR JULY 2002, Working on the Railroad with Lionel Strang, page 100. Chip-poof handrails.
mobilman44 To back up some of the previous posts...... I can attest that Pactra's Racing Finish "RC 50 - Outlaw Black" works beautifully on handrails that normally won't take/hold paint.
Testers/pactra Racing Finish RC50 Outlaw Black contains Ketones. Keep from heat, sparks and flame. This will be different then the ''newer'' paint that is Acrylic base.