hi again guys
i was curious for the guys that don't use the magnets do you cut the kadee trip pins. I don't really want them and was wondering what is the best to cut them off with?
thanks
Jeremy
While I don't currently use magnets, I still don't cut the trip pins off.However a reasonable pair of side cutters / diagonal pilers should do the trick.
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I don't use any magnetic uncouplers so I clip off all my trip pins. I use the Xuron 2175B side cutting plier. I have maybe a dozen pair of various side cutters and I use my "second-string" cutters for trip pins, in other words I don't use my best or sharpest cutters for the job.
I have come across some non-Kadee trip pins that were extremely hard metal. For these I used heavier, flush cutting wire cutting pliers. I believe the Kadee trip pins are either pure iron or at least a grade of steel that is very soft.
There is some "talk" of adapting a dental pick, like a flossing brush, that will easily separate Kadee couplers from above. Kind of an enhanced "Skewer" type tool. I plan to try these next ops session.
https://tinyurl.com/yyubl7z6
Regards, Ed
Thanks guys for the help, I think I may leave the pins and if I have any that seem to be catching I will trim a little off
JeremyBif I have any that seem to be catching I will trim a little off
There should never be any "catching" trip pins. If your couplers sag too much you have a problem with the draft gear and need to add a shim to take up any vertical slop or you have to look at how your draft gear box is attached.
I have a pair of those "trip pin pliers" but never use them. I've found in HO that I can use a very small pair of needle nose pliers with an aggressive tooth pattern and carefully grab each end of the trip pin and give it a gentle squeeze in order to tighten the radius of the trip pin curve.
Trip-Pin_squeeze by Edmund, on Flickr
Notice the aggressive grip on the Xuron 485 plier.
Trip-Pin_squeeze-zoom by Edmund, on Flickr
The various trip pin pliers tended to make a sharper bend that I wasn't too impressed with. The above procedure takes a bit of practice and a steady hand but helps by keeping the radius of the trip pin even.
Cars should pass an inspection process and trip pin height should be one of the criteria.
gmpullman JeremyB if I have any that seem to be catching I will trim a little off There should never be any "catching" trip pins. If your couplers sag too much you have a problem with the draft gear and need to add a shim to take up any vertical slop or you have to look at how your draft gear box is attached. I have a pair of those "trip pin pliers" but never use them. I've found in HO that I can use a very small pair of needle nose pliers with an aggressive tooth pattern and carefully grab each end of the trip pin and give it a gentle squeeze in order to tighten the radius of the trip pin curve.
JeremyB if I have any that seem to be catching I will trim a little off
Rich
Alton Junction
Thanks again guys I appreciate it
I have done that and ended up with the pin bent double. It takes some practice.
Cutting the pins off just doesn't look right.
Like watching a freight train roll by with no air hoses connected (actually, not even there at all).
Must be me...
I don't often cut Kadee trip pins, but when I do I use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. I also cut it flush with the bottom of the coupler. It's the neatest way to do it that leaves the best result IMHO. gmpullman,No offence, but I hate trying to bend a trip pin using your method. I've seen it fail way too many times. If the upper jaw slips off the top of the wire, it'll snag the coupler knuckle and bend it instead. I've even see regular guys miss the upper wire completely and just bend the knuckle; that leads to all kinds of trouble in operation.The secret when using the trip pin pliers is to choke up on the trip pin. Get the pliers as close to the bottom of the coupler as possible and then squeeze as gently as one can. A little bend at the top of the pin usually solves the issue without turning it into a candy cane shape.
OldEnginemanCutting the pins off just doesn't look right.
I agree completely.
When the train is in motion, the Kadee trip pins do a reasonable good job of looking like connected air hoses.
-Photograph by Kevin Parson
The one on very the end always looks a bit weird.
They do not look so good in photographs.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 OldEngineman Cutting the pins off just doesn't look right. I agree completely. When the train is in motion, the Kadee trip pins do a reasonable good job of looking like connected air hoses. -Photograph by Kevin Parson The one on very the end always looks a bit weird. -Photograph by Kevin Parson They do not look so good in photographs. -Kevin
OldEngineman Cutting the pins off just doesn't look right.
Thanks again guys for all the tips you have lent me. I haven't worked on my railroad in about 6 years. It's in a side room in basement here. A few weeks ago I just got bit by the bug again and have been really back into it. That includes switching over a large amount of cars to kadee couplers. So bare with me if you see some more questions come from me haha
thanks again
JeremyB So bare with me if you see some more questions come from me haha thanks again Jeremy
So bare with me if you see some more questions come from me haha
I have my scale track and the gravel plant with super magnet in couplers. So I leave mine on. Before I put a new car or locomotive in service, I check the pin hight by laying a business card across the rails. If the pin catches then it gets adjusted. You can also see easier if the pin is too high. The coupler pliers are nothing more than ring making pliers. I think I got mine from AC Moore years ago for half the price of coupler pliers.
Pete.
I have been experimenting with magnets on my layout and I know of the problems using Kadee magnets from past experience but the super magnets out there change the game and can be as small as 1/8" each done in sets with near 100% reliability and no accidentals unless you stop right over the magnets which are an area of about 1/4" vs 2" for the Kadee.
rrebell I have been experimenting with magnets on my layout and I know of the problems using Kadee magnets from past experience but the super magnets out there change the game and can be as small as 1/8" each done in sets with near 100% reliability and no accidentals unless you stop right over the magnets which are an area of about 1/4" vs 2" for the Kadee.
rrebellI know of the problems using Kadee magnets from past experience but the super magnets out there change the game.
I experimented with Super Magnets, but I was never happy with my results.
For me, the Rapido RailCrew Magnetic Uncoupler was the game changer. Unfortunately, they are nearly impossible to find.
Jeremy B,
A visit to the Kadee website will give a lot of good info on couplers/trip pins.
My two cents on trip pins.....I cut them all off. If the car doesn't have air hoses, I'll install them. I just don't care for the looks of them at any angle! If I'm cutting the pin off an installed coupler, I'll use the Dremel cutting disc, cutting it off on a loose coupler, I'll use the side cutters.
I dont' use the Kadee in-track magnets. I use a RIX, hand held, magnetic uncoupling tool, "he's" my brakeman. I do bend the trip pins up slightly to prevent them from striking rails, frogs etc. There is a tool for doing that, it's like a pliers. It will bend the pins up or down and works great. Even if I didn't use magnets, I would keep the "glad hands" or trip pins, as you call them, for a realistic appearance. They represent the hoses that connect together, car to car, to form the brake air-line in a train. Look between the cars on a train and you'll see them hanging down. With the RIX uncoupler I can uncouple anywhere on the layout by just holding the tool, my brakeman, between the cars. He hasn't been hurt yet.
"The one on the very end always looks a bit weird."
Correct that with the "rubber" color paint found in many military modeler paint lines, leaving a metallic color on the tip to suggest a glad hand. The dark color makes the curved iron pin look smaller.
We generally spray the underframe and trucks with a dark dirt color to get the same minimizing effect.