I found that trying to install Atlas joiners on a PECO turnout or pieces of track is difficult. The PECO joiners are smaller and more narrow and slide easily on to the PECO track. Actually, installing a PECO joiner on to an Atlas piece of track results in a tighter joint. Any comments?
DMK
I have a relatively large layout with Atlas Code 83 flextrack throughout. But, I mostly use Peco Code 83 turnouts because I really like the spring thrown point rails, requiring just a flick of the finger.
I use Atlas rail joiners throughout the layout. No problem joining Peco turnouts to Atlas flextrack.
If you are using Peco turnouts and Peco flextrack, then the Atlas rail joiners will be too loose for good electrical continuity.
I find Peco rail joiners to be too tight even for joining Peco turnouts to Peco flextrack.
Rich
Alton Junction
The Peco joiners are noticably shorter, so I prefer the longer Atlas joiners for flex track where curves might be involved. During the Great Atlas Track Shortage a few years ago, I tried using Peco joiners, but found them too tight, so I had to pry them open which knd of ruined the tight fit.
It has something to do with the rail profile. I think the Atlas rail is a bit thicker at the base.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Everything on my new layout is Peco Code 83, including the joiners. They make different sizes so you need to make sure you're buying the right size. They are tight as they should be, but don't cut them with your nipping cutters because they will distort the ends and you'll need to open the ends. I use Xuron Professional Photo Etch Scissors, they are razor sharp and make a clean cut.
Bruce.
When I added the partial upper level to my layout I ran out of rail joiners, so dropped by my truly local hobbyshop (a five minute drive). The only rail joiners available were for code 55 rail (I was using code 83 rail on Central Valley tie strips) so I bought them, rather than drive to the only other sorta-local hobbyshop, about 45 minutes away. (Years ago, there were at least 7 or 8 within a 20 minute drive.)What I did was to use the face of a cut-off disc in my motor-tool, to first thin the thickness of the rail's base at the ends, removing material from the bottom. I then used the face of the disc to remove material from the edges of the base, at both ends of each 3' piece of rail. I then slipped the tiny rail joiners onto the rails, soldering them together to create 15' or 18' lengths, which were then affixed to the already-in-place tie strips, using gelled contact cement.I do have some code 70 rail for some some industrial track, and will use the same method.If I were to build or redo another layout, I'd use the same methods and materials...easy to do and looks good, too.
Wayne
Well, not exactly about PECO joiners:
Peco turnouts are designed with a space at the end and a forgiving spike that allows the PECO joiners to slide underneath the ties. So you don't have to cut the last ties off to install a joiner.
Atlas code 83/100 joiners are too big.
I use Atlas code 80 N scale tunrnouts, which are still a loose fit on the PECO track but are very short and small, for appearence reasons.
I also use them for Atlas track, but the tips of the ends of the track must be champfered to slide the 80-N scale joiner onto the track.
- Douglas
I use Atlas track and Peco turnouts join them together with Atlas joiners with no problems.
Russell
I used Peco track on my main and Atlas on yard. Peco joiners are tight on Peco track and too tight on Atlas track. I installed a few Peco joiners on Atlas track and it took me quite a bit efforts so I would not do this on all my Atlas track. Atlas joiners are too loose for Peco track and you may have power issues unless you solder the track or have power feeder for every section after you use joiners...
Jerry
I filed a short section (about 3") into a point at one end, tapering it from side to side and downward at the web. I made several grooves in a section of 1x2. I slide the joiner part way on, then shove it into one of the grooves. Once the joiner is all the way on the spreader, I slide it off, then, slide it onto the ends of the rail. It's much easier to slide it on the rails before putting it on the layout.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I find that installing the PECO joiner on to the track, they are too loose. How do you keep the joiner from sliding away from the joint connection when to try to connect the track pieces?
I lightly squeeze the sides of the rail joiner with a pair of snip nose pliers, not the tip of the pliers but further down so that basically the entire rail joiner is squeezed.
Thanks to all
I built my HO scale layout using Code 83 track but used Atlas N scale Code 80 joiners. These joiners are a little more difficult to install but give a very tight fit and almost dissapear once the track is painted and ballasted.
I am currently building an N scale layout using Atlas Code 80 flex track and Peco turnouts. I also found it difficult to install Atlas Code 80 joiners on the Peco turnouts. The difficulty is due to the limited clearance between the rails and plastice ties of the Peco turnouts. This clearance can be improved but sliding the blade of a hobby knife between the rails and the plastic ties to gain more room. I also found that filing the end of the Atlas joiner round helps the joiner seat further up the rail.
Yes, the Peco joiners are smaller but I found them to be too soft and easy to bend out of shape, often resulting in a somewhat loose connection.
Hornblower