HO Super Elevation Styrene Strips for Atlas track 4x8 layout?

[KLund1]

 

Hello again,

 

  I am still researching about how to setup a 4x8 HO layout.

 

When I was young and had such a layout, I ran trains at full speed. The trains always looked like they were about to fall off the curves!

 

I want to still run at full speed occasionally (that is my thing), but I have learned about 'super elevation' for the outside track. This should help so the trains have a less chance of falling off. (I will be adding clear plastic around the edges to stop a 4 foot fall to the floor)

 

What would the generally optimal height to raise Atlas standard curved track? I think lower at the beginning and end of the curve and higher in the middle.

 

There is a product called Evergreen styrene strips. What would be the right sizes for my layout wants?

Thanks

 

[mvlandsw]

You could get the .020 x .100 size and add more  pieces as you go toward the middle of the curve. That way you can taper the amount of elevation and see what total works for you.

Mark Vinski

[hon30critter]

KLund1

What would the generally optimal height to raise Atlas standard curved track? I think lower at the beginning and end of the curve and higher in the middle.

Hi Klund1,

First, a belated welcome to the forums!    

Evergreen strips will work but it is a somewhat costly way to do what you want. The easiest way to do it is to get a roll of 1/4" wide masking tape and build up strips of it until you have the angle you want. You are correct in assuming that you want the superelevation to start gradually at the begining of the curve and increase towards the apex. This can be done simply by offsetting the start point of each successive layer of tape.

This method has been used successfully by many modellers. Mark Pruit recently showed how he does it in one of his excellent videos. He also has an application chart which shows how much to offset each strip of tape, but I can't find it. Hopefully he will chip in. Go to the 10:17 mark to see the masking tape in use:

Note that Mark recommends using 1/4" tape. Anything wider will not lay flat around the curves.

As far as preventing trains from flying off the track, I'm not sure that superelevation will make a huge difference, and if it is done too much, it may contribute to cars 'stringlining' and falling off the inside of the track. Your decision to put up plastic retaining walls will save your trains from fatal plunges.

Cheers!!

Dave

 

["JaBear"]

I use the card from cereal boxes, it may vary from brand to brand but the stuff I use is 0.020”, you can cut it to the radius of the curve, and it’s cheap!!! If your curves are of a 20” Radius, I’d suggest that at the centre of the curve, two thickness, 0.040” may give you enough super elevation, though if you decide after running a few trains, that it’s not enough, add another layer.

 

Cheers, the Bear.

[Pruitt]

hon30critter

Mark Pruit recently showed how he does it in one of his excellent videos. He also has an application chart which shows how much to offset each strip of tape, but I can't find it.

Actually, the chart is for building a ramp down from Midwest HO cork roadbed to 3mm cork sheet. I don't have one for superelevation.

What I do is start each layer of tape 1" back from the end of the previous layer at both ends of the strip. I use six layers of tape, so that means my lead-in ramp is five inches long from the first strip to the last. If you want higher superelevation, the ramp is correspondingly longer.

The tape I use is about .0035" thick, so six layers gives me about 1 3/4 scale inches of rise on the outside rail. Each layer of tape adds about .3 scale inches.