doctorwayneI don't know if it's a product number, but the only two that I see are K119,
Hi Wayne,
Thanks for that info. KJ119 is indeed one of the Sherwin-Williams product numbers. The KR22 that I referred to seems to be a somewhat stronger variation.
In any case, because I couldn't find any on-line sources for Sherwin-Williams lacquer thinners in Canada, I did some searching through automotive paint suppliers and I found a lacquer thinner that is described as being "very strong". It doesn't contain as many ingredients as the Sherwin-Williams KR22 or the Home Hardware stuff that I already have, but the price was right so I decided to give it a try.
This is the stuff:
https://ohcanadasupply.ca/Paint-and-Paint-Supplies/all-paint-supplies/jjj10133
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I don't know if it's a product number, but the only two that I see are K119, and right below that number is 154-8791.
Below those is a list of the ingredients, and a notation that it's used exclusively for thinning industrial maintenance coatings.
The can's capacity, unfortunately, is a measly U.S. Gallon, otherwise referred to as 3.78 Litres.
Wayne
doctorwayneall cleaning of the airbrush is done using lacquer thinner (not the so-called "safe" stuff) but the industrial strength version available (in Canada, at least) from Sherwin-Williams.
Do you happen to know the product number for the lacquer thinner that you are using?
Sherwin Williams has a variety of lacquer thinners available. It looks to me that the best one would be the 'R7KR22' version. The data sheet seems to be very close to the contents list on my ancient bottle of Home Hardware lacquer thinner.
Thanks,
I tried out the New Iwata dual action airbrush tonight and it worked fine. I was using the Alclad II lacquer primer and I was able to put down nice thin layers with no drips or runs.
I did learn one lesson. That is that Iwata's Medea airbrush cleaner does not work on lacquers! Everything turned into a gummy sticky mess. Fortunately I had some lacquer thinner on hand so eventually I was able to get things cleaned out. It's cool in the garage so I'm going to wait until tomorrow to apply the first colour coat using Polly Scale Special Oxide Red.
The rivet decals are done. My back is a bit tired from being hunched over the workbench all evening, but everything seemed to go fairly quickly. Practice makes perfect I guess.
The next step will be to apply a couple of coats of Micro Sol to get them to snuggle down, and then I will prime the shell and the frame.
I started back at the rivet decals tonight. I'm going to take my time so I can hopefully avoid knocking some of them off as I managed to do in my previous attempts. I have found it usefull to put the shell in my bench vice so that I have both hands free to work, and it prevents the shell from sliding away when the decals are being applied.
Hi folks,
Okay, I have done Tom's compatability test exactly as he prescribed and everything worked out fine!
My next step will be to give the bare styrene surfaces a light coat of the Alclad II primer and then re-apply the rivet decals. I will seal the decals in with another light coat of the primer and then apply the colour coat.
Once that is done I will be able to assemble the plow and then move on to installing the sound decoder in the first pusher engine and a silent decoder in the second engine.
By the way, you may remember the debate about whether or not I had the right cable to be able to transfer data from my iPhone to my computer. I ordered a new cable with supposedly the proper specs and it doesn't work any differently than the one that originally came with the phone. I'm going to have to figure out a different approach but I will leave that alone for a while. I want to get the plow and the pusher engines working together first.
tstageIf I can make another suggestion, Dave, or clarify my previous one: Use "clean" or "unused" scrap for your compatibility testing so that you remove any guess work from your findings
Hi Tom,
I understand what you are suggesting, and I will test the compatibility of all of the components exactly as you say.
The reason I applied the primer directly to the plow blades was so that I could sand it back a bit to highlight any scratches or defects in the surfaces.
Also, the primer has to work with the dog's breakfast of everything that is there now. If it doesn't then I am back to square one.
Thanks again,
hon30critterI think that there was a small area where there may have been a bit of the Humbrol Clear Cote that I hadn't sanded off fully. In any case, it is not a major problem, and once the primer is fully dried, I will be able to sand the offending wrinkles off.
If I can make another suggestion, Dave, or clarify my previous one: Use "clean" or "unused" scrap for your compatibility testing so that you remove any guess work from your findings - e.g. "I think" and "may have". Pretend like the scrap is the piece you are actually going to use on your project but there is nothing on it prior to you applying the medium to it.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
hon30critter Hi folks, I have done part of the compatibility testing that Tom suggested and so far, so good. I brush painted the Alclad II lacquer primer on the stationary blades and there were almost no issues.
I have done part of the compatibility testing that Tom suggested and so far, so good. I brush painted the Alclad II lacquer primer on the stationary blades and there were almost no issues.
Rich
Alton Junction
I have done part of the compatibility testing that Tom suggested and so far, so good. I brush painted the Alclad II lacquer primer on the stationary blades and there were almost no issues. I say 'almost' because there was a small area on one side of the stationary blade that wrinkled a bit. I think that there was a small area where there may have been a bit of the Humbrol Clear Cote that I hadn't sanded off fully. In any case, it is not a major problem, and once the primer is fully dried, I will be able to sand the offending wrinkles off.
My biggest fear was that the Rapido Proto-Paint would peel when I applied the Alclad II primer over it but that didn't happen thank goodness!
The next step will be to re-apply the rivet decals and then seal them in place with the Alclad II primer.
Stay tuned!
hon30critterIf you are a bit worried about me giving up on the project you needn't be.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Nothing done today on the plow. I'm still kind of in recovery mode from all the setbacks. Plus, I have been too busy preparing for a dinner party on Wednesday night. Dianne and I joined a seniors club a few months ago. They organize lots of activities, one of which is dinner parties for groups of three couples. Each couple hosts a dinner through the fall and winter months. We will be the first in our group to host. I spent the morning making pork tenderloins stuffed with german salami, beet greens, swiss chard and kolrabi leaves (all the greens from our own gardens), plus Boursin garlic and herb goat cheese and panko bread crumbs. My original recipe included sun dried tomatoes but I left those out because they made the original recipe just a bit too rich. We will serve the tenderloins with a red wine and mushroom sauce. Our guests are bringing the appetizers, side dishes and dessert. That makes it really easy for us to prepare for the party. By the way, the beet greens are really interesting to work with because they stain everything they touch bright red!
I got the Iwata air brush today. I'll give it a try once I have done the compatability tests with the paints and the decals that Tom suggested. I still have a bit more sanding to do on the roof to make sure all of the Rapido paint is gone.
If you are a bit worried about me giving up on the project you needn't be. I have read a few stories recently about war heros who never gave up despite facing overwhelming odds and suffering numerous wounds. My problems with the plow are infinitesimal compared to what they faced and surmounted. In fact, there is no comparison at all.
tstageyou don't really need your airbrush to test compatibility, Dave. Just brush the primer/paint evenly on the scrap piece of styrene by hand (letting it dry sufficiently in-between coats) then apply one of your rivets or two before your final coat.
I told you my brain wasn't working!!! That is too simple for me to figure out!
Yea, you don't really need your airbrush to test compatibility, Dave. Just brush the primer/paint evenly on the scrap piece of styrene by hand (letting it dry sufficiently in-between coats) then apply one of your rivets or two before your final coat.
I presume you will be using a rattle can for the clear coat? That should give you enough evidence whether your primer/paint/rivet/clear coat are all compatible with one another.
And don't be overly concerned about neatness prepping your scrap. You're just testing compatibility and that's all.
HTH,
Dave, why not just try Tom's suggestion while waiting for the new airbrush? You want to stay committed at this point. You are too far along to let your interest wane.
Thank you for the suggestion. My brain is too slow to think of such a logical approach.
I'm still waiting for the new air brush. Once I have that I will follow your advice.
Just a suggestion, Dave: You might want to consider testing the compatibility of your primers and decals on a scrap piece of styrene first before you apply yet another coat of paint and decals to your model. That way you minimize surprises. Paint the scrap piece just like you plan to paint the model - including material(s), prep work, and drying times.
Again, just a suggestion...
PruittWHAT?!?! No way, man! Get back to work RIGHT NOW!!!!
Yes Sir!!
Actually, I did go back to work on the paint job and as usual, I managed to take a step backward yet again!
When I was trying to apply the last colour coat, as I have already mentioned, the air brush was not working properly. The result was that I got a couple of runs which left blobs where they would have been pretty obvious. So, I attempted to sand the supposedly hardened blobs off and what happened was that the Rapido paint started to peel. Obviously it wasn't very well bonded to the styrene. I discovered that I could peel the paint off in large patches very easily in most places.
My next step was to remove all of the Rapido paint from the horizontal and vertical surfaces of the fixed blades. At first I thought that I could preserve the rivet decals but when I was scraping the last bits of the Rapido paint off, many of the rivet decals got scraped off too. About half of the rivet decals will need to be replaced, again! I think this will be the third time.
This time I'm not going to cut any corners. I will prime the now bare styrene with a light coat of Alclad II lacquer primer, then apply the rivet decals, and then seal them into place with a second coat of the primer. Then I will paint everything with Polly Scale Zinc Chromate Primer for the final colour.
In case you were wondering I have thrown all of my Rapido Proto-Paints into the garbage.
By the way, I had another look at my Badger air brush. After soaking it in Windex for several days I discovered that there was still tons of dried paint inside it. No wonder it wouldn't work properly! We are away most of Sunday but when I get back I will give it another try. Who knows, I might end up with two working air brushes!
No way, man! Get back to work RIGHT NOW!!!!
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I'm not going to do much more work until I get the new air brush and get the shell and the frame painted. I'm still pretty frustrated by all the problems that I have had to endure so I'm going to take my time for a while. I apologise if the updates are less frequent.
gmpullmanYou'll find that cleanout can pretty handy, Dave. I've had one for years and find it usedul especially now that I've gravitated to mostly top bowl, gravity-feed brushes
Hi Ed,
Thanks for the info.
I had been doing exactly the same thing since I first started to use my air brush several years ago, and I never had a problem. Unfortunately the last time I painted with it I neglected to take the brush apart but I did spray lacquer thinner through it until it ran clear. It was my intention to apply another coat of the Rapido Proto-Paint as soon as the first one dried, however the first coat reacted badly with the Humbrol Clear Cote that I had used to protect the rivet decals so that stopped the painting process. I was so annoyed that the clear coat had wrinkled that I forgot to go back and take the air brush apart to clean it thoroughly.
Once I had the shell back together after the disasterous episode with the Testors ELO stripper, I went back to the painting process. Of course, no paint would flow through the brush, and when I took it apart, it was clogged solid with paint. Things got worse when I realized that the lacquer thinner (the old formula) would not touch the dried paint. That led to me having to scrape all the paint out which was very hard to do. Apparently I damaged the brush in the process. It sprays in fits and starts, and leaves larger drops of paint on the surface. I suspect that I have scratched something and ruined the air seal.
I'm also a bit suspicious that the Rapido paint contributed to the problem. After applying the original colour coat I blew lacquer thinner through the brush until it ran clear, but apparently it left a lot of paint behind. Also, like I said above, the lacquer thinner didn't seem to have any effect on the dried paint. I probably should have soaked the parts for a while.
Thanks for your input!
I've been using a Paasche dual action airbrush for well over 40 years, and cleaning it is a breeze.I use a variety of paint types and brands, but all cleaning of the airbrush is done using lacquer thinner (not the so-called "safe" stuff) but the industrial strength version available (in Canada, at least) from Sherwin-Williams.
While the airbrush came with a so-called "colour cup", I have never used it for that purpose.
The syphon is sized perfectly for small paint bottles, like those used with Polly S, Accupaint, and Tamiya.However, when painting large items or multiple ones, I modified a bottle cap with a longer syphon tube, long enough for Floquil bottles and also for Scale Coat.
When it's time to change colours, I simply dump some lacquer thinner into the metal colour cup, then spray it through the airbrush, and the siphon, then move on to the next colour.
When the painting session ends, and the above procedure is repeated, I then disassemble the airbrush completely. The small parts (aircap, aircap body, and tip) get dumped into the colour cup, then filled with lacquer thinner.I then take a pipe cleaner, dip one end of it into the colour cup, then push it through the bodyshell from the back, then repeat by pushing the pipe cleaner through where the paint bottle had been and the out the front end of the body.
It takes less than a minute to re-assemble the airbrush, ready for the next session.
No need for additional expensive paraphenalia.
The whole procedure takes less than five minutes, and leaves the airbrush ready for the next session.
hon30critter— including the pot for spraying the remaining paint and cleaning solvent into, —
You'll find that cleanout can pretty handy, Dave. I've had one for years and find it usedul especially now that I've gravitated to mostly top bowl, gravity-feed brushes. The clean-out jar makes color changes a breeze and keeps the errant mist to a minimum.
Knockoff_airbrush by Edmund, on Flickr
I use the Iwata cleaning solution for water-base paints.
Not a substitute for a good, disassembly cleaning but handy for between color rinse outs.
Good Luck, Ed
Go big or go home!
I decided that, if I was buying a new air brush, I may as well equip myself properly. I just ordered an air brush cleaning kit including the pot for spraying the remaining paint and cleaning solvent into, a set of five round wire brushes and five needles and a couple of other bits, plus a large bottle of air brush cleaner and a proper air brush holder.
I just ordered a USB-A to USB-C cable from Samsung.
On another note, I screwed up my air brush.
Contrary to my normal habit, I failed to thoroughly clean my Badger 200 NH single action air brush the last time I used it. That left it clogged full of dried paint (despite my having blown lacquer thinner through it when I finished using it). The paint proved to be particularly difficult to dislodge but eventually I thought I had it cleaned out. Unfortunately it seems that I have damaged the air brush with my not so subtle scraping away the dried paint, so now it doesn't spray smoothly. It sprays in fits and starts and either doesn't put down enough paint or it puts down way too much. I have disassembled it once again and it is soaking in Windex until tomorrow.
I have never been particularly happy with the Badger air brush so I just ordered an Iwata dual action siphon feed. It will be here late next week.
I'm also going to give up on the Rapido Proto-Paint and go back to my supply of Polly Scale which has always worked perfectly for me.
With my older Galaxy S7 phone, I used the Type A-to-micro Type B USB charging cable that came with the phone to transfer data back-'n-forth between my phone and PC. With my new Galaxy phone, it uses a Type A-to-Type C USB cable and I have no issues seeing the files on my phone or transferring data.
OvermodIf I'm not mistaken, not all 'USB' cables have all the data lines -- some are for charging only.
Hi Overmod,
As Tom suggested, I think that may be the problem.
Thanks. I'll see what I can find.