BigDaddy ATLANTIC CENTRAL Here you can look at some interior work as well: I'm not sold on that post that is in the island. My light saber works fine for PVC
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Here you can look at some interior work as well:
I'm not sold on that post that is in the island.
My light saber works fine for PVC
In the original design and construction of that house, they had 2x8 floor joists spanning 19' above the kitchen. When we got there the room above that kitchen had sagged over 4" in the middle roughly where that post is, and the room was a like a trampoline when you walked thru it.
Since the 1st floor ceilings are 9'-10", we lowered the kitchen ceiling about 12", ran a triple 2x6 beam under the existing chestnut 2x8's, supported that down to the foundation at both ends and under that post, each span being about 7' and reducing the long span to about 10' and 9'.
Then we removed the flooring in the room above, sistered new 2x8's to the existing ones, and installed a new level 3/4" plywood sub floor. The room in question was the pinkish bedroom with the big bay window.
The island counter top is Corian and was field seamed around the column. You cannot find the seam.
I would show you the "during" pictures but I don't have the 1000 plus photos I took during the restoration scaned into digital form.......
I will tell you what I'm not sold on, I will never build another house for myself with an island in the kitchen.....
But, maybe I'm just too old fashioned.
That house appeared on the HGTV program Restore America, won a local preservation award and attracted so much attention around here strangers would drive around the U shaped drive to get a better look, people we did not know, but who knew who we were, would approach us in public places and ask questions. The guy who bought it from us two years ago was local and watched the restoration as he drove by every day.
The exterior looks very close to the way it did when constructed in 1901. The main interior layout is also very close to the original floor plan. I carefully documented the house before we changed anything and forensically determined the original floor plan and other details as we restored the house. The changes we did make were done in a way that respected the period and the style.
Things like the two sets of pocket doors are completely original and carefully restored by me to perfect working order. All the interior door hardware and most of the doors are original to the house, most of the woodwork is original, what is not original was milled to match.
I worked on that house three years, full time, being the project manager/restoration architect, carpenter, plumber, electrician, painter and more. I did hire some help, but did easily 50% of the work myself. When it was done I restarted my business.
I replaced every inch of wire, every inch of domestic plumbing, reworked the baseboard heat into five zones, and did all that while saving over 70% of the original plaster walls and trim.
The main part of the house still has the original slate roof.
It was the adventure of a lifetime and a great privledge to be the steward of that property for 23 years and enjoy that lifestyle.
With any luck I have insured that it stands another 100 years.
Here are a few others I have done:
Sheldon
ATLANTIC CENTRALHere you can look at some interior work as well:
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Very nice, While it will be well built, I assure you the benchwork for my new layout will not be that fancy - I have a whole basement to fill.....
I did the house that I linked to between 1996 and 1998 and then lived there for 23 years, and it is typical of a lot of the projects I do for clients.
We too downsized but I now have a bigger railroad room.....
And I still need to build more garage space outside, maybe in the spring.
I'm very busy with work, but not doing so many big exterior projects anymore.
Starting a bathroom in a 1885 house we have already done some work on right here in historic Havre de Grace. It's nice when the ride to work is 5 min.
Layout room pictures soon, just want to get a bit more done first.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL And I won't say anything more about all the stuff we do with table saws and chop saws that the instructions say "don't do this"........
And I won't say anything more about all the stuff we do with table saws and chop saws that the instructions say "don't do this"........
Funny stuff Sheldon.
I would gather by now you probably know I never had an issue with the way you choose to safely use your tools. I would also think you can appreciate my comments were made because I felt bad the day I saw my worker Shane get hurt. I wouldn't want to see or hear that happened to anyone else doing the same thing.
I checked out your work on your link and again, Very Impressive I do a lot of custom work that you do and have a local website here in town but don't link to the World Wide Web. My business associates in Prior Lake used to call me the Crown Wiz I lived for installing crown moldings.
I seen in one of your posts you commented that you are unfamiliar working with foam but you would make Bridge Piers out of two blocks of wood.
I thought that was a great idea you had so I drew a picture and went down to the boiler room today and made some with my field saw.
I'm glad you made that comment because honestly I was hating the foam ones I made. I've been wanting to reduce the lower landing to half the width where the sister girder decks will rest.
Here is my custom bench-work with hidden cabinets I built in the boiler room. I miss my professional cabinet shop in my 2 1/2 stall garage since I down sized.
I installed slide out trays for my locomotives and rolling stock. I need to make some more as there's plenty more room on the sides and so far none in the middle.
The ultralight tabletop was made on a large glass table and is engineered to stay perfectly flat as glass for good. If you put 1/4" plywood on there you could walk on it no problem.
TF
Track fiddler SeeYou190 ATLANTIC CENTRAL I could not imagine building a good sized layout without my chop saw, table saw, several battery drills and impact drivers, air compressor, nail guns, biscuit joiner, power planner, belt sander, orbital sander, etc. Same here. From the time I built my first layout using my father's tools, I never tried to build anything without access to all the proper and best tools. Ditto on both statements. I have seen those exterior restorations you have done on those victorian classic homes Sheldon And that was some fine craftsmanship I saw right there I'd have to say TF
SeeYou190 ATLANTIC CENTRAL I could not imagine building a good sized layout without my chop saw, table saw, several battery drills and impact drivers, air compressor, nail guns, biscuit joiner, power planner, belt sander, orbital sander, etc. Same here. From the time I built my first layout using my father's tools, I never tried to build anything without access to all the proper and best tools.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL I could not imagine building a good sized layout without my chop saw, table saw, several battery drills and impact drivers, air compressor, nail guns, biscuit joiner, power planner, belt sander, orbital sander, etc.
Same here. From the time I built my first layout using my father's tools, I never tried to build anything without access to all the proper and best tools.
Thank you. Here you can look at some interior work as well:
https://app.photobucket.com/u/carrollhome/a/bfdbd701-abf4-4d5f-bb20-786bbc5599c9
I just chuck it into my lathe. Square and true.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that the piece being cut should be secured; no free hand stuff.
And I would never try cutting any round object on a table saw. I'd much rather move the operating blade to the piece, rather than the piece to the moving blade.
Sweet!
I haven't seen a side-by-side comparison yet Kevin. It appears the Milwaukee Hackzall hasn't changed a bit in 7- 8 years I think it's been.
Hey! Ya Wanna Trade? I can save you the short break-in time period for when this tool really starts to perform at its maximum potential
Great looking job on that irrigation system by the way
ATLANTIC CENTRALI could not imagine building a good sized layout without my chop saw, table saw, several battery drills and impact drivers, air compressor, nail guns, biscuit joiner, power planner, belt sander, orbital sander, etc.
Mine:
Fiddler's:
I guess that proves who has more experience!
-Kevin
Living the dream.
gregc where's Norm Abram with some simple way using common tools?
where's Norm Abram with some simple way using common tools?
If you really want an accurate cut, the tool I suggested is the most common thing many people will have. A good hand miter box is the next best solution.
It is still my position that most of the potential danger in this situation or with any power tool is people who are in too much of a rush.
The tool Overmod suggests is great, it's cost is a significant percentage of my professional grade chop saw and for me it would be one more expense, one more thing to store, and one more thing to carry to the job when the tool I have does the job very well.
Agreed it is my profession that creates my perspective, but I could not imagine building a good sized layout without my chop saw, table saw, several battery drills and impact drivers, air compressor, nail guns, biscuit joiner, power planner, belt sander, orbital sander, etc.
Nothing installs homasote roadbed faster and more accurately than a brad nailer........
Table saws and chop saws turn blocks of wood into carefully shaped bridge piers.
Love my power tools,
But I guess foam does not require power tools? I would not know.
All of the "silos" on these 2 models were cut using a simple miter box and a fine tooth back saw.
This was before I had aquired a power miter box and a chop saw, which is what I would use today.
I had to do very little fine tuning to get a square end.
Mike.
My You Tube
I would have to agree with your statement Overmod. Especially the part "helpfully without".
Those four inch diamond blades with anti-vibration slots can prove themselves downright evil as I have heard the horror stories.
The guard was taken off for the picture of course. It's all about the old saying "The right tool for the right job". Anytime one deviates there's a brand new set of rules with certain risks.
I have a Milwaukee Sawzall that's well-seasoned like me. I found the tool at a pawn shop when I was around 20. I bet the tool has at least 10 years on me. With the exception of the cord, still doing its job never once repaired.
I suppose that old girl has had quite a few dates with Mr PVC through the years. One of the more safer power tools out there. The biggest caution I would put on this tool is respect for it when you're on a ladder or a roof edge. If she binds suddenly, she will try to throw you off.
I have a cordless one as well.
The blade on it is called The Ugly! That blade works great for cutting up rotten carpenter ant infested landscape timbers when you don't want to wreck your chainsaw blade. Mounted on the other Sawzall of course. I'm sure the Bobcat would have been the better choice but it was an egress window well behind two trees.
I've been asked my profession what I do for a living many times through life. My reply has always been the same, ... "I'm a guy with a truck and some tools".
In the beginning of this thread I was just trying to point out a simple and helpful way to cut a PVC pipe square with tools an every day modeler would probably have.
The day I needed to do it, I could have probably done it many ways with almost any power tool imaginable. But my Razor saw was sitting on the table staring me in the face and I didn't want to run out to my ice cold truck
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
7j43kThe theoretical tooth count for a 12" blade cutting 1/8" walled tubing would be somewhere around 400. I don't recall blades having much over 120 teeth. That said, the coaser the tooth count, the greater the risk of sadness. And maybe despair. Even some snivelling.
That said, the coaser the tooth count, the greater the risk of sadness. And maybe despair. Even some snivelling.
I confess I haven't used power tools to cut PVC in many years; I just use one of those roller-guided miter boxes (with what is essentially a short piece of bandsaw blade) which goes neatly through most anything in a few seconds with low vibration or excitement...
To cut anything square, a circular miter saw with a finer toothed blade will give excellent results. As always, go slow and be careful. Keep your fingers away. If you are cutting something round, clamp it. Wear safety glasses.
So... about cutting PVC on a job site...
I have been installing my irrigation system for a few weeks, and have been using this Milwaukee 18 volt "Hackzawl", which is a smaller version of a Sawzall, and I love it.
It can be used one handed, and I can cut the pipe right in place. No taking it back to a miter saw, very little measuring, and no ratchet cutter wearing out my wrist.
It is so much more convenient doing all the cutting in place.
I don't have a chop saw. I used a miterbox and a hand saw with a reasonably fine blade to make similar cuts. A chop saw may be the best and fastest, but a miterbox is cheaper.
Good luck,
Richard
The reason the pipe exploded was binding caused by having no way for the cut pipe to expand away, only direction was back into the blade. Putting it up on something like a thin board would have proubly saved the day, also slow cutting.
NtheBasement2 Regarding the 2/22 Build a cement silo article, how did the author cut the PVC pipe perfectly square? I've tried this in the past and failed after numerous tries.
Regarding the 2/22 Build a cement silo article, how did the author cut the PVC pipe perfectly square? I've tried this in the past and failed after numerous tries.
I can't say how he did it, I do not have the 2/22 issue yet but,
If you are using Schedule 40 PVC pipe and not tubing, buy a Furnco coupling, that is a ''reducing coupling'' type, as in 1-1/2'' X 2'' if you are doing 1-1/2'' and 2'' PVC pipe, slide it up to your cut line, tighten it and saw around and a round till you are through, using the rubber end of the Furnco as a guide. If you are doing 3'' and 4'' PVC just get a 3'' X 4" furnco reducing coupling.
I will guess that you will find out that you can not slide the smaller end of the Furnco over the larger pipe, with that you will need to ''rough cut'' the larger size pipe to about four inches longer then you need, leaving two inces of waste at each end then slide the coupling down to the cut line. Or just get a Furnco coupling in size to fit each pipe in size that you choose.
I use a bonded abrasive chop saw blade (no teeth) in my chopsaw to do Schedule 40 PVC pipe on a big job with lots of cuts. If I need a 1/4'' more or less removed from the pipe, no problem, just cut it off. I use my chop saw for my Schedule 40 PVC HO scale silos.
The wrapped paper around the pipe works great for the hobbyist.
The theoretical tooth count for a 12" blade cutting 1/8" walled tubing would be somewhere around 400. I don't recall blades having much over 120 teeth.
Ed
We do more trim work than framing work, so I generally have an 80 tooth blade in the 12" yellow chop saw. Now if we end up framing a whole house, I change it out for a 40 or 60.
Go slow, no worries. And no burrs either.
I'm with Sheldon on using a chop saw.
The tooth spacing of the blade should be 2/3 the thickness of the pipe wall. That's very roughly 2/3 of 1/8".
That kind of blade can be tough to find, so you might have to accept greater tooth spacing. As soon as the tooth spacing is greater than the wall thickness, you start running the risk of the blade "notch" suddenly dropping down and tearing out too much. The bigger the spacing, the bigger the problem.
You CAN cut with an excessive tooth spacing, but you have to be careful. And yes, a fresh blade with enough set can help.
On a slightly different note, I used a chop saw to cut plastic passenger car roofs, crossways. I then glued the pieces together to get a longer roof. It works REALLY well. At least, for me.
A milling machine does an even better job, by the way.
I bought a spare blade too just incase they don’t stock them down the road. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
That is a slick looking mini table saw Mel and looks like the perfect tool for modeling. Nice job on that custom fence you made.
I've been wanting to get something like that for when I start building model structures. Those packages of scale wood at the hobby store can be a bit pricey when you start adding up what you need for that.
I have a Harbor Freight near my place and I'm going to have to go check that out. Thanks for the tip
P.S. I seen that Towan video on the static grass applicator, nice job on that as well.
One of my best finds is the Harbor Freight 4” Mighty Might Table Saw.It didn’t come with a fence so I made one out of Baswood.Since I got it I use it to cut PVC pipe for my projects, I simply use the guide that came with the saw and rotate the pipe into the blade.I used it to cut the handle on my Luke Towan Static Grass 1½” PVC applicator handle.
I also cut the PVC connectors on the saw.
The Mighty Might is slick for hobby work. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
I have one of those too, but I would not call cutting 1-1/2" drain pipe with it "easy". Maybe you have stronger hands than me.
Yes, if you have dull framing blade in the chop saw and you try to see how fast you can "zip" it down on that plastic pipe, you might get an unhappy result.
Of course even cutting wood, I take a dim view of those who think they are speed demons with my chop saw.
And dull cutting tools are dangerous for any task......
I will go back to work now.
Really
With all due respect Sheldon, as I can see you didn't give me much!
The PVC pipe I saw explode in a chop saw was 1 1/2 drain pipe. Shane broke two fingers that day.
I use one of these to cut PVC pipe straight. But to each their own tool.
It rachets through pretty effortlessly and I don't have to take a trip to the saw or clean up any burs as it cuts nice and clean.
And for the glue part, I don't have any problem finding the right glue for the right medium.
Track fiddler Good evening I have a few chop saws. My favorite is my green one. I have also seen PVC explode in power miter saws if there's any play to the bearings or the blade is slightly untrue. Kids, don't try this at home as I don't think it's a very good idea. mvlandsw's idea sounds good and I did something similar. I needed to cut some PVC pipe square and make some half pipes out of them. Just take some wider masking tape and wrap it around the pipe. If it doesn't meet up just right, back the tape up and re-adjust until it does. Then take a razor saw or hack saw and follow the edge of the tape around turning the pipe slowly while you cut. On the half-pipes, I just followed the edge of the tape the other way. TF
Good evening
I have a few chop saws. My favorite is my green one. I have also seen PVC explode in power miter saws if there's any play to the bearings or the blade is slightly untrue.
Kids, don't try this at home as I don't think it's a very good idea.
mvlandsw's idea sounds good and I did something similar. I needed to cut some PVC pipe square and make some half pipes out of them.
Just take some wider masking tape and wrap it around the pipe. If it doesn't meet up just right, back the tape up and re-adjust until it does.
Then take a razor saw or hack saw and follow the edge of the tape around turning the pipe slowly while you cut.
On the half-pipes, I just followed the edge of the tape the other way.
REALLY?
BUT, what I see in your picture is NOT PVC pipe. That is polypropylene thin wall pipe used for molded pumbing traps and tailpiece extensions. I would not cut that with a chop saw, it will explode. On the job we cut that stuff with tin snips or pipe cutting "sissors".
BUT, I would not use it to build models either, it is crappy to glue to.
To cut PVC drain pipe with a chop saw all you have to do is have a reasonably fine tooth blade, like you would use for trim carpentry and go slow. But maybe I have never used any worn or cheap junk chop saws. Every plumber I know loves to cut PVC on a chop saw given the chance.
I have made thousands of PVC pipe cuts with a chop saw, never a problem in 30 years of doing so.
It leaves a beautiful, perfect machine quality edge. And if I needed halves, I would run it thru the table saw.
My one chop saw is yellow, because once you have the best you only need one, and I use mine almost every day at work.