ATLANTIC CENTRAL And I won't say anything more about all the stuff we do with table saws and chop saws that the instructions say "don't do this"........
And I won't say anything more about all the stuff we do with table saws and chop saws that the instructions say "don't do this"........
Funny stuff Sheldon.
I would gather by now you probably know I never had an issue with the way you choose to safely use your tools. I would also think you can appreciate my comments were made because I felt bad the day I saw my worker Shane get hurt. I wouldn't want to see or hear that happened to anyone else doing the same thing.
I checked out your work on your link and again, Very Impressive I do a lot of custom work that you do and have a local website here in town but don't link to the World Wide Web. My business associates in Prior Lake used to call me the Crown Wiz I lived for installing crown moldings.
I seen in one of your posts you commented that you are unfamiliar working with foam but you would make Bridge Piers out of two blocks of wood.
I thought that was a great idea you had so I drew a picture and went down to the boiler room today and made some with my field saw.
I'm glad you made that comment because honestly I was hating the foam ones I made. I've been wanting to reduce the lower landing to half the width where the sister girder decks will rest.
Here is my custom bench-work with hidden cabinets I built in the boiler room. I miss my professional cabinet shop in my 2 1/2 stall garage since I down sized.
I installed slide out trays for my locomotives and rolling stock. I need to make some more as there's plenty more room on the sides and so far none in the middle.
The ultralight tabletop was made on a large glass table and is engineered to stay perfectly flat as glass for good. If you put 1/4" plywood on there you could walk on it no problem.
TF
Very nice, While it will be well built, I assure you the benchwork for my new layout will not be that fancy - I have a whole basement to fill.....
I did the house that I linked to between 1996 and 1998 and then lived there for 23 years, and it is typical of a lot of the projects I do for clients.
We too downsized but I now have a bigger railroad room.....
And I still need to build more garage space outside, maybe in the spring.
I'm very busy with work, but not doing so many big exterior projects anymore.
Starting a bathroom in a 1885 house we have already done some work on right here in historic Havre de Grace. It's nice when the ride to work is 5 min.
Layout room pictures soon, just want to get a bit more done first.
Sheldon
ATLANTIC CENTRALHere you can look at some interior work as well:
I'm not sold on that post that is in the island.
My light saber works fine for PVC
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BigDaddy ATLANTIC CENTRAL Here you can look at some interior work as well: I'm not sold on that post that is in the island. My light saber works fine for PVC
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Here you can look at some interior work as well:
In the original design and construction of that house, they had 2x8 floor joists spanning 19' above the kitchen. When we got there the room above that kitchen had sagged over 4" in the middle roughly where that post is, and the room was a like a trampoline when you walked thru it.
Since the 1st floor ceilings are 9'-10", we lowered the kitchen ceiling about 12", ran a triple 2x6 beam under the existing chestnut 2x8's, supported that down to the foundation at both ends and under that post, each span being about 7' and reducing the long span to about 10' and 9'.
Then we removed the flooring in the room above, sistered new 2x8's to the existing ones, and installed a new level 3/4" plywood sub floor. The room in question was the pinkish bedroom with the big bay window.
The island counter top is Corian and was field seamed around the column. You cannot find the seam.
I would show you the "during" pictures but I don't have the 1000 plus photos I took during the restoration scaned into digital form.......
I will tell you what I'm not sold on, I will never build another house for myself with an island in the kitchen.....
But, maybe I'm just too old fashioned.
That house appeared on the HGTV program Restore America, won a local preservation award and attracted so much attention around here strangers would drive around the U shaped drive to get a better look, people we did not know, but who knew who we were, would approach us in public places and ask questions. The guy who bought it from us two years ago was local and watched the restoration as he drove by every day.
The exterior looks very close to the way it did when constructed in 1901. The main interior layout is also very close to the original floor plan. I carefully documented the house before we changed anything and forensically determined the original floor plan and other details as we restored the house. The changes we did make were done in a way that respected the period and the style.
Things like the two sets of pocket doors are completely original and carefully restored by me to perfect working order. All the interior door hardware and most of the doors are original to the house, most of the woodwork is original, what is not original was milled to match.
I worked on that house three years, full time, being the project manager/restoration architect, carpenter, plumber, electrician, painter and more. I did hire some help, but did easily 50% of the work myself. When it was done I restarted my business.
I replaced every inch of wire, every inch of domestic plumbing, reworked the baseboard heat into five zones, and did all that while saving over 70% of the original plaster walls and trim.
The main part of the house still has the original slate roof.
It was the adventure of a lifetime and a great privledge to be the steward of that property for 23 years and enjoy that lifestyle.
With any luck I have insured that it stands another 100 years.
Here are a few others I have done:
Maybe more Roy Underhill than Norm Abrams, but I cut and squared the ABS and PVC tubing for my tanks like mvlandsw. For final squaring carefully drew the piece over sheet sandpaper taped to 1/4" thick plate glass, rotating 1/4 turn or so before each pass. Not fast, nor perfect, but okay.
Power tools are great, use em' if ya' got em'.
Btw Mike, your silos and grain complex look really, really good!
Regards, Peter
Track fiddlerI seen in one of your posts you commented that you are unfamiliar working with foam but you would make Bridge Piers out of two blocks of wood. I thought that was a great idea you had so I drew a picture and went down to the boiler room today and made some with my field saw. I'm glad you made that comment because honestly I was hating the foam ones I made. I've been wanting to reduce the lower landing to half the width where the sister girder decks will rest.
TF: I have the tools and probably the skill to make piers such as you show. Unfortunately what I lack is enough imagination to come up with the cutting plan/sequence. Any way you could provide that information, possibly in a new thread? It would be appreciated by myself and probably others.
Thanks
Dick
HO-VeloBtw Mike, your silos and grain complex look really, really good!
Thanks Peter, coming from an artist like you, it means a lot.
Mike.
My You Tube
mbinsewi
.
Track fiddler I would be happy to do that if you can hang on a bit.
Absolutely no rush. I'll be happy to be "hanging here by a thread" (waka-waka).
My late dad's first name was Dickran (pronounced dick-ron) which translates to Richard. Being 1st gen, that got passed on to me. Was never really happy about it, because single syllable names generally sound more masculine.
Anyway, if you're don't like Richard you get Rich, Rickey, or something similar. And if you don't like those, then you become a Dick.
At one of the last jobs I was on I tried to become professional about the whole thing. I worked for GE. So when they called me on the radio I asked them to ask for "Dick from GE". That soon became "GE Dick". Told them they could keep the radio and if they wanted me they could walk the jobsite and try to find me.
HO-Velo Maybe more Roy Underhill than Norm Abrams, but I cut and squared the ABS and PVC tubing for my tanks like mvlandsw. For final squaring carefully drew the piece over sheet sandpaper taped to 1/4" thick plate glass, rotating 1/4 turn or so before each pass. Not fast, nor perfect, but okay. Power tools are great, use em' if ya' got em'. Btw Mike, your silos and grain complex look really, really good! Regards, Peter
Peter, how did you make the lines on those tanks? Or are they kits? Nice!
Mike, that's a great looking complex.
As to the original question: Nobody, unless I missed it, mentioned a regular pipe cutter that you rotate around on the pipe, at least to make a deep line to follow with a hand saw. Dan
I never knew that cutting PVC pipe with a standard chop saw was dangerous. Its what the kid at the Do-It center used when I got some of their scrap pieces cut down to 8 inch lengths for use as cement silos.
- Douglas
DoughlessI never knew that cutting PVC pipe with a standard chop saw was dangerous.
I know. Just about every plumber I've worked around, while they are doing rough in work, uses, or has used a chop saw.
Now, everything is going pex, which requires a different set of tools.
mbinsewi Doughless I never knew that cutting PVC pipe with a standard chop saw was dangerous. I know. Just about every plumber I've worked around, while they are doing rough in work, uses, or has used a chop saw. Now, everything is going pex, which requires a different set of tools. Mike.
Doughless I never knew that cutting PVC pipe with a standard chop saw was dangerous.
PEX has not really caught on around here, except for hydronic heating systems.
Doughless I never knew that cutting PVC pipe with a standard chop saw was dangerous. Its what the kid at the Do-It center used when I got some of their scrap pieces cut down to 8 inch lengths for use as cement silos.
Frankly, it's not. I've cut PVC with a chop box hundreds of times. Still have all my fingers. Nowadays I use a Milaueakee PVC shear For plumbing jobs. Let me tell you that baby is sweet.
JJF
Prototypically modeling the Great Northern in Minnesota with just a hint of freelancing.
Yesterday is History.
Tomorrow is a Mystery.
But today is a Gift, that is why it is called the Present.
You have to be careful with rotating pipe cutters on PVC. If you are not attentive you will pull down on the handle and the wheel will cut a spiral instead of a clean groove; the resulting separation will be anything but square. Many of the cutting wheels have a wide 'bevel' for strength and by the time this gets far enough into the thicker sections of plastic pipe the bevel will have forced up a bulge in the plastic which destroys the ability to seat the pipe correctly in a cemented tapered fitting -- much worse than useless if you have to level it by cutting or sanding it down.
Isn't Pex the flexible tubing used for water supply lines, not really waste lines or a replacement for PVC? Blue tube is cold, red tube is the hot supply. Maybe I'm not thinking of the right stuff.
If I am, the Central Indiana tract-home builders started using Pex exclusively in 2004. My house was built in 2003 using copper pipes, and my neighbor's house used the blue and red tubing. I watched contruction in 2004/2005.
There was a long array of metal fittings attached to the water supply, looked like a model railroad wiring terminal strip, where each faucet had its own dedicated blue and red lines running straight from the supply/water heater area in the basement. I guess the product was too new for the plumbers to trust installing T fittings buried into walls, like they do with copper.
Pex is GREAT! Flexible and super tough. I just completely re plumbed a friends house with it. The house was vacant for several winters and the old cpvc pipes broke. I'm not a plumber, but with the right tools, crimps and fittings, it goes fast enough, and won't burst again if frozen. I can't imagine any uses for it in scale modeling.
Thanks for the info on trying to use a pipe cutter on plastics, too.
Doughless mbinsewi Doughless I never knew that cutting PVC pipe with a standard chop saw was dangerous. I know. Just about every plumber I've worked around, while they are doing rough in work, uses, or has used a chop saw. Now, everything is going pex, which requires a different set of tools. Mike. Isn't Pex the flexible tubing used for water supply lines, not really waste lines or a replacement for PVC? Blue tube is cold, red tube is the hot supply. Maybe I'm not thinking of the right stuff. If I am, the Central Indiana tract-home builders started using Pex exclusively in 2004. My house was built in 2003 using copper pipes, and my neighbor's house used the blue and red tubing. I watched contruction in 2004/2005. There was a long array of metal fittings attached to the water supply, looked like a model railroad wiring terminal strip, where each faucet had its own dedicated blue and red lines running straight from the supply/water heater area in the basement. I guess the product was too new for the plumbers to trust installing T fittings buried into walls, like they do with copper.
Yes, it replaces copper or the yellow CPVC supply piping. While it is code approved and available here, it is not popular with most professional plumber who still favor the yellow CPVC for supply piping. There are several types of fitting for PEX, and some do not like having them in walls and floors. But we have used solid brass compression fittings and Sharkbite fittings on PEX concealed in walls for two decades now on heating systems - no failures.
The "home run" approach to plumbing is becoming popular for a number of reasons.
A black version of PEX with some special features is used for hydronic heat systems, hot water baseboard, in floor radiant, etc. This was once big hydronic heating country, in this region problably more than 50% of the homes over 35-40 years old have boilers and baseboard/radiators, and a percentage of newer homes have it as well.
Older systems were all copper, but newer systems are hybrid of copper and PEX. We rework/upgrade older systems all the time that way.
Southgate 2 Pex is GREAT! Flexible and super tough. I just completely re plumbed a friends house with it. The house was vacant for several winters and the old cpvc pipes broke. I'm not a plumber, but with the right tools, crimps and fittings, it goes fast enough, and won't burst again if frozen. I can't imagine any uses for it in scale modeling. Thanks for the info on trying to use a pipe cutter on plastics, too.
PEX is GREAT. Nobody steals it out of houses as quick as they do copper.
There is a difference between a PIPE CUTTER and a TUBING CUTTER. It's the cutting wheels.
I haven't found a use for PEX in Model Railroading yet, but 1/2'' and 3/4'' CPVC yes. I have been using 1-1/4'' up to 4'' PVC pipe for silos and fuel tanks for a long time and have given plenty away over the years. You can only use so many.
DoughlessIsn't Pex the flexible tubing used for water supply lines, not really waste lines or a replacement for PVC?
Yes, here in SE. WI., the first time I seen it used was for in-floor hydronic heat. Now I see all over. Our north woods WI. cabin, the water lines are pex. Th drain system is PVC.
Southgate 2make the lines on those tanks? Or are they kits?
Thanks Southgate 2, Not kits. Hose clamp, machinist scale and scribe used to etch the circumference and upright lines. Several passes required to reach preferred depth. Hose clamp worm drive didn't allow a full circle scribe, but in my case didn't matter since rear of tanks not visible.
Hose clamps. Noted. On my way out to the garage. Thanks!
I never thought this thread would get past 8 replies, but man, I've picked up some useful pointers here and viewed some great models. Dan
Southgate 2I never thought this thread would get past 8 replies
Isn't it great when we try to help each other?
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Instead of hose clamps, I came up with another way to scribe lines. Coming to a WPF near you! I'll post it there. Dan
Southgate 2Instead of hose clamps, I came up with another way to scribe lines. Coming to a WPF near you! I'll post it there.
(Nerd humor; ignore it.)
Southgate 2 I came up with another way to scribe lines. Coming to a WPF near you! I'll post it there.
Dan... Weekend Photo Fun is open!
I am looking forward to seeing what you have come up with.
Good morning
It turned out these cardboard tubes on Bridge #7 had to be cut unsquare to look cosmetically correct.
They started out square and looked terrible. So they had to be individually marked to follow the contour of the bridge. Each one was different and I found it more difficult to cut them unsquare so they looked right.
TF, this is a completely different topic, and I think you should start your own thread on it. The 'square' cutting only matters when you need that right-angle end for good reason.
The best answer I can propose for the subject bridge is to get one of those belt/disc sander combo machines, with appropriate grit to cut and finish the cardboard you use. Glue the bridge up with 'oversize' ends and mark the desired extension length on each one, then 'sand to the line' against the disc, with the bridge squarely on the table and level so the cut edge will be vertically true. You may have to finish-sand or lightly bevel the inside and outside tube edges.
Note that if you have a way to square a sliding jig against the disc you have an easy way to dress any 'miscuts' in pipe so they are square; you could also jig fixed skew angles.