My first model; a co-op storage shed

[hon30critter]

Hi Stef,

I really like it!

I agree that a loading dock would add to the scene. They are easy to make with scale lumber or styrene. Styrene can be aged to match using a fine toothed razor saw to scribe the wood grain pattern, and you can paint it with the same paints you used on the building, perhaps with a little more gray in the mix. Don't forget to put a ramp on one end and some steps.

There is a current discussion on building loading docks in the Layouts and Layout Building forum.

Dave

[York1]

It looks great.  It is exactly like some old building you would see along an old rail line.

[dstarr]

Looks really good.  You might consider adding a loading dock on the side with the big doors. 

 

[ModelTrain]

Hi everyone!

I have decided to improve this model but adding some texture to the walls by making some planks appear in 3D. I have also changed the signs, changed the painting and weathering and open two doors. I wanted to make this building look old and dirty.

What do you think?

[ModelTrain]

PC101

Crud:

Deposit or incrustation of filth as in dirt, grime, gunk, muck, soil, pigeon poop.

Thanks for the explanation. In fact, I didn't do anything to create this. I just tried to add several layers of rust.

[PC101]

 

 

 

 

 

ModelTrain

 

PC101

That looks real. Nice job. I am not sure, but when I super enlarge your photo I think I can see 3 dimensional crud on the roof. That's a good effect.

 

 

Thank you for the great comment. 

What is a "crud" exactly? Sorry, my first language is french.

 

York1

Stef, I think it looks great.  It will be a nice building on the layout.  I would never guess that this is your first attempt at the weathering/painting of a model structure.

 

 

Thanks. Yes it was my first attempt at painting and weathering a structure. I feel more confident now.

A few years ago, I build a little scale model airplane but I didn't paint it because I was afraid to mess it up.

I have just received those two books that will help me a lot for weathering buildings and trains.

 

Crud:

Deposit or incrustation of filth as in dirt, grime, gunk, muck, soil, pigeon poop.  

 

[ModelTrain]

PC101

That looks real. Nice job. I am not sure, but when I super enlarge your photo I think I can see 3 dimensional crud on the roof. That's a good effect.

Thank you for the great comment. 

What is a "crud" exactly? Sorry, my first language is french.

York1

Stef, I think it looks great.  It will be a nice building on the layout.  I would never guess that this is your first attempt at the weathering/painting of a model structure.

Thanks. Yes it was my first attempt at painting and weathering a structure. I feel more confident now.

A few years ago, I build a little scale model airplane but I didn't paint it because I was afraid to mess it up.

I have just received those two books that will help me a lot for weathering buildings and trains.

[York1]

Stef, I think it looks great.  It will be a nice building on the layout.  I would never guess that this is your first attempt at the weathering/painting of a model structure.

[PC101]

That looks real. Nice job. I am not sure, but when I super enlarge your photo I think I can see 3 dimensional crud on the roof. That's a good effect.

[ModelTrain]

Hi guys.

I finally changed the colour of the roof so it looks more like a metal roof with rust.

I have used silver colour and two brown tones (chocolate brown and burnt umber). Then I have applied a black wash and I finished with adding some rust with Tamiya Weathering Master Kit.

What do you think?

[ModelTrain]

Seeker_CNY

An electrical drop is what a power company uses to connect power to a building. There is a connection wire that runs from the meter box up the side of the structure where a connection is made to the electrical utility lines. Dr. Wayne posted a photo of one of his excellent structures that illustrates this clearly. Hope this helps. And once again, great work

Ok I understand what it is now. Thanks for your help.

hon30critter

 

ModelTrain

In my kit, I have a rust color but it is kind of dust that we can apply on a model. I don't know if this kind of dust can remain on my model for years or if it dissappear over time. 

Hi ModelTrain,

Most weathering powders have an adhesive component that allows them to stick to the surface. However, they will wear off if the model is handled. The cure is to use Testors Dullcote (or similar) clear spray to seal the weathering powders to the model. Note that the Dullcote will 'wash out' the intensity of the weathering powder colours so you may have to apply the powders a couple of times before you get the depth of colour that you want. As you get used to the process you will figure out how much powder to apply the first time. Just remember that you can always add more, but taking some off is much harder.

Dave

Thanks Dave for the excellent explanation.

[hon30critter]

ModelTrain

In my kit, I have a rust color but it is kind of dust that we can apply on a model. I don't know if this kind of dust can remain on my model for years or if it dissappear over time.

Hi ModelTrain,

Most weathering powders have an adhesive component that allows them to stick to the surface. However, they will wear off if the model is handled. The cure is to use Testors Dullcote (or similar) clear spray to seal the weathering powders to the model. Note that the Dullcote will 'wash out' the intensity of the weathering powder colours so you may have to apply the powders a couple of times before you get the depth of colour that you want. As you get used to the process you will figure out how much powder to apply the first time. Just remember that you can always add more, but taking some off is much harder.

Dave

[Seeker_CNY]

An electrical drop is what a power company uses to connect power to a building. There is a connection wire that runs from the meter box up the side of the structure where a connection is made to the electrical utility lines. Dr. Wayne posted a photo of one of his excellent structures that illustrates this clearly. Hope this helps. And once again, great work!

[ModelTrain]

hon30critter

ModelTrain

I have a bottle of silver paint but don't have any of rust color. The only rust I can add right now would be with Tamiya weathering master kit. 

Hi ModelTrain,

The Tamiya weathering kit would probably have the right colours to mimic rust. Otherwise you could use some of the reddish brown paints that you used on the roof already.

Are you familiar with 'dry brushing'? That is where you take a brush (preferably a rather stiff brush), get a bit of paint on it, and then wipe most of the paint off on a paper towel. The small amount of paint left of the brush will give you a rust pattern that is feathered at the edges just like the real thing. It may take several applications to get the depth of rust that you want.

This is a rather crude example (one of my first attempts at scratchbuilding). The picture makes the rust look darker than it is. You can see the ridge cap too:

Dave

In my kit, I have a rust color but it is kind of dust that we can apply on a model. I don't know if this kind of dust can remain on my model for years or if it dissappear over time.

I use dry brushing when I do oil painting on canvas but I have never tried it on models. I will try it on my models.

Thanks again Dave :)

doctorwayne

ModelTrain

Wow, I am impressed by the quality of your buildings. Great job. I should buy a few more shed like those. 

Your kind words are much appreciated ModelTrain. 

With your skills, I'm sure you'll get great results.  Looking forward to seeing more.

Wayne

Thanks Wayne :)

[doctorwayne]

ModelTrain

Wow, I am impressed by the quality of your buildings. Great job. I should buy a few more shed like those.

Your kind words are much appreciated ModelTrain. 

With your skills, I'm sure you'll get great results.  Looking forward to seeing more.

Wayne

[hon30critter]

ModelTrain

I have a bottle of silver paint but don't have any of rust color. The only rust I can add right now would be with Tamiya weathering master kit.

Hi ModelTrain,

The Tamiya weathering kit would probably have the right colours to mimic rust. Otherwise you could use some of the reddish brown paints that you used on the roof already.

Are you familiar with 'dry brushing'? That is where you take a brush (preferably a rather stiff brush), get a bit of paint on it, and then wipe most of the paint off on a paper towel. The small amount of paint left of the brush will give you a rust pattern that is feathered at the edges just like the real thing. It may take several applications to get the depth of rust that you want.

This is a rather crude example (one of my first attempts at scratchbuilding). The picture makes the rust look darker than it is. You can see the ridge cap too:

Dave

[ModelTrain]

doctorwayne

A ridge cap could be as simple as a piece of sheet metal, bent into an inverted"V", at the roof's ridge, which matches the slope of the roof, but there are also other types, such as double ones, where the roof sheathing is slipped into a gap between two connected "V"s, the sheathing sitting atop the lower one, and under the upper one.  Its purpose is to keep the roof from leaking at the ridge. 

ModelTrain

From: Southern Canada

Because I speak normally french, there are some english expressions I have never heard of like "ridge cap". What is a ridge cap exactly?

  

If you're from southern Canada, my guess would be Welland, Ontario, where there's always been a fairly prominent French-speaking community.

Those Walthers structures are included with several of Walthers larger kits, as outbuildings.  They do have a floor supported by the pilings...

Here's one at V.A.Wagner's lumber yard in Lowbanks...

Here's an aerial view of the lumber yard...

The structure at right was picked-up off the "used" table at a now long-gone hobbyshop.  I tidied it up a bit, then added the electric meter and the chimney.  The two structures at left were scratchbuilt, somewhat compressed versions of their prototypes.

This is the same warehouse kit, but I built it on a "concrete" foundation (.060" sheet styrene)...

...and a view from the other side...

 

 

Seeker_CNY

...Depending on the era, maybe an electrical drop with a meter and exterior light fixtures....

 

 

While I added one on one of the lumber yard structures, this one is probably a better version, even though it's on the side of this structure that's not normally seen...

I have at least a couple more of those storage sheds, but they're not yet installed where they'll eventually be used.

Wayne

Wow, I am impressed by the quality of your buildings. Great job. I should buy a few more shed like those.

BigDaddy

 

ModelTrain

Because I speak normally french, there are some english expressions I have never heard of like "ridge cap". What is a ridge cap exactly?

We wouldn't have known, your English is excellent.  If you look at the pic of the roof from directly overhead, you will notice there is a seam where the left side meets the right side, at the top.

Just like your model this would exist in real life with either shingles or metal.  A ridge cap overlaps the peak of the roof to cover the seam.  On metal roofs it would be metal.

SeeYou190

Thank You for the information about the roof. I think I will buy one or two more sheds like this to put on my layout.

That is really something to be proud of. Your weathering is remarkable. For a first attempt, that is unbelievable.

As others have pointed out, there is some room for improvement, but I would not touch those walls at all.

 

-Kevin

Thank you Kevin. I really appreciate your comment :)

[SeeYou190]

That is really something to be proud of. Your weathering is remarkable. For a first attempt, that is unbelievable.

As others have pointed out, there is some room for improvement, but I would not touch those walls at all.

 

-Kevin

[BigDaddy]

ModelTrain

Because I speak normally french, there are some english expressions I have never heard of like "ridge cap". What is a ridge cap exactly?

We wouldn't have known, your English is excellent.  If you look at the pic of the roof from directly overhead, you will notice there is a seam where the left side meets the right side, at the top.

Just like your model this would exist in real life with either shingles or metal.  A ridge cap overlaps the peak of the roof to cover the seam.  On metal roofs it would be metal. 

[doctorwayne]

A ridge cap could be as simple as a piece of sheet metal, bent into an inverted"V", at the roof's ridge, which matches the slope of the roof, but there are also other types, such as double ones, where the roof sheathing is slipped into a gap between two connected "V"s, the sheathing sitting atop the lower one, and under the upper one.  Its purpose is to keep the roof from leaking at the ridge.

ModelTrain

From: Southern Canada

Because I speak normally french, there are some english expressions I have never heard of like "ridge cap". What is a ridge cap exactly?

If you're from southern Canada, my guess would be Welland, Ontario, where there's always been a fairly prominent French-speaking community.

Those Walthers structures are included with several of Walthers larger kits, as outbuildings.  They do have a floor supported by the pilings...

Here's one at V.A.Wagner's lumber yard in Lowbanks...

Here's an aerial view of the lumber yard...

The structure at right was picked-up off the "used" table at a now long-gone hobbyshop.  I tidied it up a bit, then added the electric meter and the chimney.  The two structures at left were scratchbuilt, somewhat compressed versions of their prototypes.

This is the same warehouse kit, but I built it on a "concrete" foundation (.060" sheet styrene)...

...and a view from the other side...

Seeker_CNY

...Depending on the era, maybe an electrical drop with a meter and exterior light fixtures....

While I added one on one of the lumber yard structures, this one is probably a better version, even though it's on the side of this structure that's not normally seen...

I have at least a couple more of those storage sheds, but they're not yet installed where they'll eventually be used.

Wayne

[ModelTrain]

Here is another picture of my shed.

[ModelTrain]

hon30critter

 

ModelTrain

I built this building to make it look like it's made of wood so I think rust would be out of the question for the roof no? Maybe it doesn't look like it's made of wood?

It is unlikely that your roof would be made of wood only. The vertical lines on the roof are designed to mimic standing seam metal roofing. In other words, the roof is made with long strips of metal that go from the eaves to the ridge, and they are joined together with an overlapping seam that stands up perpendicular to the roof surface.

Metal roofing for industrial structures in the 60s would typically be galvanized, although it could be painted any colour you want. If the galvanized roof was new it would be a matt silver/gray, but it usually didn't take long before rust would start to show. Your weathering on the roof suggests a much older installation.

I think that the easiest thing to do would be to leave it as is. If you want to model a galvanized roof looks newer, go back and paint it silver and then add as many vertical rust stains as you want. Using dry brushing will give the best results for the rust stains. If you want to get really detailed, you could just show some rust towards one side of each of the panels. The application of the galvanizing was often uneven so it is very common to see panels from the same production run with more rust on one side than the other.

The other thing you could add is a ridge cap. There might even be one in the kit. If one wasn't supplied, a ridge cap could be made out of heavy paper (manila envelope or file folder).

As far as cutting out a door, don't be afraid to try it. Use a fresh x-acto blade and just score the edge of the door repeatedly. Eventually the cut will go through. You may have to put a partial floor in the building where the open door is. The leftover parts in the kit might be suitable for that.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

Dave

Wow, what a great explanation. I think you are right about metal roofing and the standing seam. I didn't notice that.

I have a bottle of silver paint but don't have any of rust color. The only rust I can add right now would be with Tamiya weathering master kit.

Because I speak normally french, there are some english expressions I have never heard of like "ridge cap". What is a ridge cap exactly?

I think I will buy another kit exactly like this one and I will let one open door for this one. It's not an expensive kit.

Thanks guys for your help!

I was trying to edit my first message but I don't see the edit button. Maybe that's because I am a new member?

[hon30critter]

Hi Bear,

Okay, be like that!

Those roofs would be neat to model.

I hope you realize that I was referring specifically to the OP's project. I didn't intend to imply that there were no wooden roofs at all. I edited my introductory sentences to make my comment more focused.

Cheers!!

Dave

["JaBear"]

hon30critter

It is unlikely that the roof would be made of wood only.

https://workingbyhand.wordpress.com/tag/plank-roof/

[hon30critter]

ModelTrain

I built this building to make it look like it's made of wood so I think rust would be out of the question for the roof no? Maybe it doesn't look like it's made of wood?

It is unlikely that your roof would be made of wood only. The vertical lines on the roof are designed to mimic standing seam metal roofing. In other words, the roof is made with long strips of metal that go from the eaves to the ridge, and they are joined together with an overlapping seam that stands up perpendicular to the roof surface.

Metal roofing for industrial structures in the 60s would typically be galvanized, although it could be painted any colour you want. If the galvanized roof was new it would be a matt silver/gray, but it usually didn't take long before rust would start to show. Your weathering on the roof suggests a much older installation.

I think that the easiest thing to do would be to leave it as is. If you want to model a galvanized roof looks newer, go back and paint it silver and then add as many vertical rust stains as you want. Using dry brushing will give the best results for the rust stains. If you want to get really detailed, you could just show some rust towards one side of each of the panels. The application of the galvanizing was often uneven so it is very common to see panels from the same production run with more rust on one side than the other.

The other thing you could add is a ridge cap. There might even be one in the kit. If one wasn't supplied, a ridge cap could be made out of heavy paper (manila envelope or file folder).

As far as cutting out a door, don't be afraid to try it. Use a fresh x-acto blade and just score the edge of the door repeatedly. Eventually the cut will go through. You may have to put a partial floor in the building where the open door is. The leftover parts in the kit might be suitable for that.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

Dave

[ModelTrain]

snjroy

Hey, Welcome to the forum!  Your first posting will be moderated, so please be patient. 

 

That building looks terrific!  If you want us to be picky, I would say that there could be more rust on the roof. You could also add some lights. If it will be some kind of depot near tracks, you could add ramps and decks, with some crates and feed sacks. Workers hauling things will make it come alive too. Otherwise, it's nice as is!

Simon

Thank you Simon for the welcome. 

I built this building to make it look like it's made of wood so I think rust would be out of the question for the roof no?

Maybe it doesn't look like it's made of wood?

 

Seeker_CNY

Looks really good to me. Will it be displayed in the foreground? If so, more detail may be in order. Depending on the era, maybe an electrical drop with a meter and exterior light fixtures. For a background model it looks fine the way it is. Most additional details will probably be on the ground around the shed. Things like weeds, empty barrels, pallets, delivery vehicles, busted sacks, etc. Great work, especially for a first model!

 

I am not really sure right now if it's going to be on the foreground or the background since I don't have a layout yet. I would like my layout to be in the sixties in southern Canada.

 

What do you mean exactly by an electrical drop with a meter?

 

mlehman

Outstanding work for a first shot! Bow

 

Thanks. I must admit that I was very happy with the result.

 

kasskaboose

Brava on your first weathering effort?  I too have that shed.  It's a nice addition to your layout. 

 

Perhaps add some gutters to it or small industrial structures (pallets, crates, etc.)?

 

Thanks. I noticed I have a few spare parts in this kit. I can almost create another smaller shed but there is no door that fits it. 

What did you do with the spare parts in that kit?

Is there a way to create a realistic gutters from scratch?

MisterBeasley

It looks like the large doors are separate pieces.  Are they still removeable?  When I see large doors, I want to open one of them up and build a small "shadow-box" interior, in this case with boxes and bags stacked inside.  It gives you an opportunity to light a building in what otherwise might be a dark corner.

Very good idea but no the doors are glued. I thought about letting one of those doors open but I am scared of breaking a door if I try to removed it from the building. Maybe I could buy another one that I could put next to this one and let one opened door?

 

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate your help as I am a complete beginner in model railroading.

 

Here are a few more photos of this shed.

 

 

 

[hon30critter]

Hi ModelTrain,

I think it looks pretty good! I like some of the suggestions that others have made, like having one of the doors open showing a few inside details. I love lighting as well, especially if you plan on running your trains at night.

Other details like docks and detrius around the shed will add to the scene, and as David (NorthBrit) suggested, figures can add a lot. You might want to study his layout to see some examples of the sort of story telling with figures that he referred to. He is quite good at it.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/284615.aspx

We look forward to seeing your future work. You are off to a good start.

Cheers!!

Dave

[BigDaddy]

In addition to what others have said, I would dry brush a little rust on the roof ventilator.  Consider putting a poster or advertisement on a wall. 

Nice work!

[NorthBrit]

A lovely model.   As others have mentioned, add items around,  figures etc.  People on the way in.  People with their purchases.  It makes the building  and gives a reason to be there.  'A living building'  part of a Living Model Railroad.

 

If you are not sure where to put the 'little people',  go to any store; sit in your car and people watch.   A multitude of things happen.

Have people doing little things.  Stop walking to the store and turning to check little Johnny is following.  Another locking (or unlocking) the automobile door are just a couple.   Dare to be different.

 

Look forward to see more.

 

David