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A couple of Tool-related questions.

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  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: Wyoming, where men are men, and sheep are nervous!
  • 3,392 posts
Posted by Pruitt on Wednesday, August 12, 2020 11:15 PM

SpaceMouse
...my mini table saw will only cut as low as 3/32". What I would like to do is attach a 1/16 strip of metal to the rip fence so I can make stacks of scale lumber.

If I understand your question correctly, I would use wood rather than metal on your fence. That way if you slip the saw will be chewing into wood rather than metal.

You might try this:

  • Get two or three small counterunk-head machine screws.
  • Fashion a plate for your fence using wood thick enough for the screws to be countersunk a bit deeper than the exposed surface of the wood.
  • If possible, clamp the plate to the fence and drill at least two holes through both, using a bit size that will allow you to tap the fence holes with the appropriate sized tap. Best to use a drill press for this operation, if you have one.
  • Tap the holes in the fence.
  • Open the holes in the wooden plate to a close clearance for the screws, then countersink the holes.
  • Screw the guide onto the fence, and you're ready to go!

The holes in the fence shouldn't interfere with the normal operation of the rip fence without the plate, and you can replace the plate any time you need to.

If that's too much work, spray the back of the plate with an adhesive like Super 77 and slap the plate onto the fence. Remove it later using a putty knife. You'll probably have to clean the fence face with some sort of solvent - gasoline or mineral spirits, I would guess.

  • Member since
    January 2017
  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
  • 18,255 posts
Posted by SeeYou190 on Wednesday, August 12, 2020 9:39 PM

I bought ten of these el-cheapos at either the Dollar Store or in the dollar bin at Northern Tool.

They work OK for model building.

-Kevin

Living the dream.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, August 12, 2020 8:25 PM

Awhile back I bought a Harbor Freight Mighty Might table saw for my hobby bench.  I didn’t come with a fence so I made one from Basswood.

The blade height is fully adjustable from 0 to ¾”.



I’ve used it quite a bit on both Basswood and Styrene and it has worked out very well.  The Basswood fence came out a close fit to the top of the saw but a strip of 3M striping tape give it some friction to keep it in place.

The saw is pretty good, I cut a 2” diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe by rotating it.


Mel


 
My Model Railroad  
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Central Vermont
  • 4,565 posts
Posted by cowman on Wednesday, August 12, 2020 7:51 PM

I have an Irwin that opens to 4 1/2", also one that opens to 12 1/2".  You could check with your local hardware store and see if there is a mid-sized one listed.

Stacked lumber is pretty much a cube cut to length 8' to 16'.  Unless you plan to do indicidually stacked boards, a block of wood, scribed, should do for the stacks and purchase a few scale pieces for extra detail effect.

Good luck,

Richard

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
A couple of Tool-related questions.
Posted by SpaceMouse on Wednesday, August 12, 2020 6:22 PM

1) Does anyone make a 4-6 inch bar clamp?

2) I'm going to have a lumber mill big enough to need a dedicated switcher. I need a lot of different sized lumber.

The trouble is my mini table saw will only cut as low as 3/32". What I would like to do is attach a 1/16 strip of metal to the rip fence so I can make stacks of scale lumber. 

Any ideas on how to go about it?

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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