First brass loco on the way from the Bay.Listing says it is new but I know it might need some maintenance to get it running after all of the years in the box.I have heard some use rubber tubing as drive couplers.Anything else I should know?
Hello,
http://schutzer.net/Brass_Clinics/RebuildingBrass2008a.pdf
Good Luck, Ed
Thanks Ed that is very helpful!Exactly what I needed to know!
That PDF is an excellent source. Have read it several times... When you say you are buying new, does that mean without paint? How old is the loco? You might not need a new motor (definitely not if it is a can motor). Many new brass engines are sold with practically no lubrification. That is intentional for those who want to paint the engine first. If the engine is painted, or if you don't intend to paint it, then you should apply the right lubrification before starting it up.
Simon
I got my first brass loco last December.
It isn't hard to get the shell off as it was held by only 3 screws. However the 2 at the cab end sure are tiny! I then did a light lubrication but it didn't do much for the running quality as the loco had more serious issues. These were fixed and now it runs as smooth as glass.
I just recieved my second brass loco that was advertised as new and it does look to be so. Steam by the way. I won't try to lube this one myself as I found a local fellow who has been doing brass for 40 years and his fees are very reasonable. It does run ok.
As far as the tubing goes, model airplane fuel line was used on the first loco and it was a retro-fit by a previous owner. It did work but not really well. I had the universal replaced.
Good luck. Nothing like brass!
CN Charlie
Ok the seller claimed it was never run but it is tarnished and there are several Kem Tron detail parts included.Did not pay much so my expectations are modest.When it arrives I will give a detailed report as well as pics.Will keep you guys posted.
Ok it arrived today!made by GHC out of Japan for the H.O.Train company of. Philadelphia.Seems nicely detailed.Pribably needs cleaned and lubed..
Well, that's always an exciting moment! The debate is open whether you should lubricate first before doing anything. If it was me, I would test it as is to see if the wheels turn, on a very short distance. I don't like lubricating before painting - because that's what I would do.... Some will advocate a light oiling before doing anything.
Yes I will try it on the test track .I can use labelle to oil it.
If you are going to paint it, I would not lubricate it first.
I test run all of mine back and forth on my Kato Unitrack "obstacle course" when I get them just to make sure they run.
Just don't run them for laps.
That is a pretty model.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Yes I was very impressed with it!nice fine piping detail and brass castings as well as intricate side rods and other valve gear.Hope it runs as well as it looks.I will remotor if Tom (LHS owner)recommends it.
When I got my United Santa Fe 2-8-0 I went "old school" and removed the boiler and clean and relube the drive gear, cleaned the commutator, then I oiled the side rods,cross heads,piston and other moving parts and gave a test run and it ran as smooth as a swiss watch.. I did the same to my Sunset Santa Fe 2-8-2 with the same results..
I am very pleased with these two old girls.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I put it on the test track last night and the headlight lit but the motor did not run.I will take off the boiler and see whats what.I have previously made a Bowser 4-6-0 so I should be able to to see if the gears are frozen or the motor.I noticed that both the motor worm and main drive gear are both brass.I expect it to be quite noisy!
So the power is getting there... Was the light dim or intense? If the light is dim, it might be not getting enough power through the wheels to get the motor to turn. I would open the boiler and see if the wiring to the motor is correct and try to turn the motor shaft manually (assuming it's an open-frame motor). You can apply 12v directly to the motor power leads to see if it's still alive. It should work.
So you need to open the boiler and see if the wire going to the motor is still there and working...
Yes have to be careful not to damage any of the detail work.
PRR class B6s. It appears to have a lines west coal bunker extension. Not positive but it may be 1960s vintage. Open frame motor and direct drive worm?
Don't worry about lubing it first. If you're going to paint it I'm sure you will wash it before painting.
Good luck
Brass main drive gear. Brass motor worm.Should be noisy ..the Bowser has a nylon main drive gear and it sounds like a coffee grinder but runs very well.
That would depend on the machining of the gears and the backlash. I have a brass 2-6-0 that is quieter than most with a gear box.
Well guys I am happy to report that it was just disuse..after I cleaned it and oiled all of the bearing with Labelle 107 she runs quitely and smoothly no binds in the valve gear so I am quite happy.I do not think a remotor is necssary,at least at this point!
Hey, I like happy endings!
Yes sir!Shocked how quiet it is!
Primer airbrushed on..
Sometimes you have to put it in the bag!
Clear coat applied.
Roller test webt well .awaiting the decals...https://youtu.be/GhjS0G6KMCk
Added my fictional Army decals.Well pleased!