I bought an old metal car that has LOTS of what appears to be excess Ambroid cement visible. What is the best way to remove old Ambroid?
Carefully cut it away.
It should come off pretty easily with a hobby knife and a little bit of work.
.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Since it's a metal car, I'd simply toss in into some lacquer thinner, or, if you don't wish to submerge it, use lacquer thinner in conjunction with a brush - not one of your "good" ones, of course.
Wayne
doctorwayne Since it's a metal car, I'd simply toss in into some lacquer thinner, or, if you don't wish to submerge it, use lacquer thinner in conjunction with a brush - not one of your "good" ones, of course. Wayne
Wayne,
That was My first thought also.....but....He say's excess glue visible. I'm wondering if someone used it to glue the model together, in which case the Lacquer will unglue the model. He should be able to use cotton swabs for the excess, dipped in lacquer thinner or use a pie pan and wash the whole model in Lacquer thinner with a fine brush and swabs.
Take Care!
Frank
I am now reassembling a box car made by Globe Models. This old model was glued with cellulose cement. It seems to have been used until 1983 on MR magazine, but the brand names are unknown. In Japan, this adhesive "Cemedine C" appeared in 1938. "Walthers Goo," on the other hand, is a rubber cement that was first advertised in the January 1950 issue and was featured in the April Trade Topics. What kind of Ambroid cement is? Any comments are appreciated.
Kuriu, KotaroKyoto, JAPAN
Ambroid is a celluloid cement - hence the name - the ambr from the amber color and the -oid from celluloid.
Interesting history here:
http://www.ottertooth.com/Canoe_pages/ambroid.htm
It's the first plastic glue, and older than a lot of many adhesives that have come and gone.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Randy,
You just made Me feel old......LOL
I started using Ambroid cement back in 1952, when I was 10yrs. old. I used it exclusively on wood ship kits that I had built......back then it was more like building from scratch. Parts were cut-out, but every single one had to be sanded to fit from the keel, up. Then with the infamous Dope (sanding sealer, also paint by Dope) a few coats and resand again for a silky smooth water tight fit. Too much exposure to the Dope, would get You high...literally. The good ole' days! LOL LOL
BTW: I still have a half a tube left and it's still good.....
They still had that butyrate dope when I was a kid - I used it on my model rockets. Balsa wood fins you'd swear were plastic - I coat them, snad them down, apply anothe rcoat, sand with a finer grit, about 4-5 times, then paint. I remember that smell very well. Got some a couply years ago to hid the wood in a hooper roof I was making from milled wood stock, it mostly worked the same but the smell is much different on the new stuff. Probably for the good, but there was something about that. Same basic thing as Ambroid, really, just a different carrier. Plus you could get it in clear or all sorts of colors.
rrinker Ambroid is a celluloid cement - hence the name -
Your link was an interesting read, Randy. I had heard of Ambroid, but have never used it.
zstripe ...Then with the infamous Dope (sanding sealer, also paint by Dope) a few coats and resand again for a silky smooth water tight fit. Too much exposure to the Dope, would get You high...literally. The good ole' days!
I certainly do remember Dope, as my dad was an avid builder of model airplanes. It didn't take too long for me to get lightheaded when he was doping his latest creation.
Here are a couple, not yet ready for doping, which he built, I think, in the '30s...
My Dad built some as well. He had one in progress, I wish I could remember what it was a model of - a WWI biplane I think. He had one wing done and covered with tissue when he passed away. I did not think I had the skills to complete it so it just sat around. I think eventually other stuff got piled on top of the box and it got broken. I did later discover an unbuilt Dumas wood airboat kit, which was probably older than me. That one I did build up, the hull anyway, as my friend and I were going to put the former workings of an electric RC car in it for power. I had the motor and a proper rigged, but at that time we were doing what we could on break from college and we were both working as well, so it never got finished. The boat hull was nice though - I sanded and varnished it and it was absolutely watertight, and pretty water proof as well. Floated and easily held the weight of the battery, radio, and motors.
I do like working with wood. You can make it look like wood, metal or plastic. It generally cuts far easier than similar size plastic strips. Takes more skill to glue neatly though, since you can't 'melt' it with a solvent like plastic.
Ambroid probably sparked a revolution - hide glues were fine for wood - for full size furniture. Still used. But way too messy for scale models. And in a time before modern wood glues, and even before Goo, there wasn't much choice.
rrinker....Takes more skill to glue neatly though, since you can't 'melt' it with a solvent like plastic.
I agree, one reason why I stopped building wooden models, and much prefer styrene.
My dad used model airplane methods to build this model of a '50 Studebaker, too...
The body was all-wood, with a fairly sophisticated steering assembly, and full four-wheel suspension, including camber for the front wheels. All of the metal trim was hand-made, too.
The Globe Models box car has been completed. This model was constructed with nitrocellulose cement and nails. The adhesive was all wood, brass, aluminum (roof), zinc diecast, and even plastic (Bakelite?). It was easily disassembled because of its weak adhesion. Today, I used white glue, epoxy and cyanoacrylate for reassembly. The next owner will have a hard time breaking down.
The website Randy has shown is interesting. As a child in the early 1960s, I used cellulose cement extensively in model planes and plastic kits. It is still sold in Japan, but I never buy it.