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Rivarossi Allegheny drivers loose

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  • Member since
    October 2019
  • 23 posts
Rivarossi Allegheny drivers loose
Posted by Shades_10318 on Thursday, November 14, 2019 4:52 PM

Hi again. I have another problem with the Rivarossi Allegheny I've been working on. Apparently, the holes that the driver axles fit into are too loose, which allows the drivers to move around way too much (up and down, loosing traction, as well as front to back).

 

Does anyone have any experience fixing this kind of issue? I'm thinking about buying some thin wall brass tubing and attaching it to the axles or maybe just bending some thin brass sheet and placing it around them. Or maybe just replacing the model, I'm not sure yet.

 

Does anyone know what would or wouldn't work?

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Thursday, November 14, 2019 5:20 PM

Maybe Hornby Intl. can help with some supplies...?  

I can tell you what I'd do if I didn't want to spend much money.  I'd file two or more grooves into the insides of the hubs, nothing very deep, and also into the axles themselves if it can be anticipated to be a realistic procedure; our skills vary.

Then, I'd epoxy everything back together.

This won't be fast, or simple. If gears are involved, they must be able to mesh so that all drivers' cranks are at the same angle for quartering while the gears also mesh with their mates. Also, the gauge will have to be spot on. T'will take some thinking, and many held breaths.

Or, call Hornby.

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,367 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Thursday, November 14, 2019 5:25 PM

Shades_10318
Apparently, the holes that the driver axles fit into are too loose,

The first time I read your post I thought you were refering to the point where the axle presses into the driver hub.

On second reading, I believe you're refering to how the axles themselves are held into the frame under the cover plate.

Are there small half-round bearings on the axles? Perhaps one or more are missing? Or you may need to shim around these bearings or check the fit of the bottom cover to be sure the axles are properly retained.

Diagram from HO Seeker.com

Hard to see here but there are what appear to be "driving boxes" AKA axle bearings as shown in section 11. Check to be sure none of these are missing.

Looky here!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-HO-RIVAROSSI-C-O-1633-2-6-6-6-STEAM-LOCOMOTIVE-DIECAST-CHASSIS-PARTS/293242070612?hash=item444696e654:g:qAcAAOSwWl5dhoVg

 

[edit] After studying the die-cast frames in the Ebay photos It seems there are only bosses molded into the sideframes. These appear to be designed almost like a three-axle diesel truck.

It would appear yours are worn out? The Ebay ones seem like they are in decent shape. I wonder where those bronze springs go? I have some locomotives, especially long-framed ones, where the axle fit is intentionally loose because (1) the manufacturer didn't use close tolerances in the side rod/ driver spacing alignment and (2) the slop was intended to allow the engine to negotiate tight radius curves. 

Good Luck, Ed

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • 23 posts
Posted by Shades_10318 on Thursday, November 14, 2019 6:14 PM

Ed,

Thank you for your reply. Yes, it would seem the model was designed without bearings. Maybe the bosses on the model I have are just worn out, although I have seen a similar issue with one in a video online. It doesn't seem like the axle fit would have been designed to have this much play forward and backward or up and down, although I can understand why you'd want side-to-side motion to be possible for moving around curves.

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • 1,950 posts
Posted by NVSRR on Thursday, November 14, 2019 7:39 PM

I pulled my Rivarossi H8 off the shelf to look.   Those boss are probably the problem.   On mine there is no back to front or up and down play.  Just side to side.  Each 3 acle unit looks like a regular 3 axle truck. The center axle is set while the two outside axles slide right and left.    You might be able to file out those boxes and replace them with square tube or channel. And use .05 or .10 styrene to shim them.       Keep in mind when Hornby released these, they might have made changes to those truck frames that might not have a matching fit

A pessimist sees a dark tunnel

An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel

A realist sees a frieght train

An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • 23 posts
Posted by Shades_10318 on Thursday, November 14, 2019 7:50 PM

Alright, thanks. Mine is the R5454 model (2002).

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Thursday, November 14, 2019 10:49 PM

I don’t have an Allegheny but I have 20 Rivarossi articulateds and all of them have the slop you describe.  The weight of the locomotive keeps the axles snug to the top of the driver assemblies.  As a rule the Rivarossi locomotives are under weight so they don’t have a lot of traction. 
 
I add 8 to 10 ounces of weight to the shells with #8 birdshot . . . . but not with the original Rivarossi motor.
 
 
 
I either use a pair of Canon EN22 motors or a single Faulhaber 2224RS motor.  Finding Canon EN22 motors is difficult so I’m going with the Mabuchi SF-266SA motors.  I have done a lot of testing of the SF266SA motors and I feel it is equivalent to the Canon EN22 at a lot lower cost.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    October 2019
  • 23 posts
Posted by Shades_10318 on Sunday, November 17, 2019 1:22 PM

NVSRR

I pulled my Rivarossi H8 off the shelf to look.   Those boss are probably the problem.   On mine there is no back to front or up and down play.  Just side to side.  Each 3 acle unit looks like a regular 3 axle truck. The center axle is set while the two outside axles slide right and left.    You might be able to file out those boxes and replace them with square tube or channel. And use .05 or .10 styrene to shim them.       Keep in mind when Hornby released these, they might have made changes to those truck frames that might not have a matching fit

 

 

Thank you for the suggestion. What do you mean regarding square tube or channel?

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