John Lawrence I have Bachman couplers on my HO train. They aren't working so well for uncoupling. What's the best solution for easy coupling and uncoupling?
I have Bachman couplers on my HO train. They aren't working so well for uncoupling. What's the best solution for easy coupling and uncoupling?
John L., get some Kadee #5 or #148 (same standard head but different spring mechanism) and start with them and see how you like them. You will not go wrong with Kadee's. If your cars are weighted correctly, you should be happy and you will teach yourself how and when to use the different styles/#'s of Kadee couplers.
Then you can experment with different types of ways to uncouple them, Company made special tools ($) or tools made by yourself (hooked tip rod in a stick, very small straight blade screwdriver, flatten tip straight rod in a stick, etc.) Model RailRoading will make you a ''how to'' thinker. I used Kadee's way back and I crossed over to the other side of the track sometimes...but I ran back to the good side real fast. Kadee couplers are like toilet paper...well maybe not a good choice of word...but seems like every fifth time I leave the Hobby Shop I have some Kadee's in my bag if I need them or not. When Kadee's patent expired the ''Kadee plastic clone coupler's'' cost some modelers (me) good money.
But I did not throw them out (the plastic clones), I beheaded them and threw the coupler head minus the trip pin (cut it off or pull it out) in a gondola for scrap.
Hello All,
gmpullmanAs an alternate to a skewer, the Rix uncoupling magnet can also be a handy tool for uncoupling. https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/rix-products-ho-628-0014-uncoupling-tool
I too have looked at the Rix tool.
Has anyone actually used them?
If they actually work I would gladly add it to my toolbox, despite the cost versus other "manual" less expensive methods.
Please chime in with you experiences with the Rix tool.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
kasskabooseAny clones the OP could use also? They might work for anyone with limited funds.
BRAKIEI would go with Kadees or Walthers Protomax II coupler since both brands are top line. I use both brands.
As Brakie mentions the Walthers Protomax are a "close" clone of the Kadee #5.
However, the genuine Kadees (#5) are 20/$24 and the Protomax are 20/$26 (street price) so there is no real economy there.
For my use, Kadee is a coupler "system" and I keep dozens of styles and shank configurations on hand for particular needs knowing that they will all perform flawlessly.
As an alternate to a skewer, the Rix uncoupling magnet can also be a handy tool for uncoupling.
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/rix-products-ho-628-0014-uncoupling-tool/
Good Luck, Ed
Not that I have anything against Kadee (far from it; I have them on my cars). Any clones the OP could use also? They might work for anyone with limited funds.
As far as uncoupling on the main, if uncoupling is necessary I use the Kadee uncoupling tool or the 0-5-0 method. I tried using delayed action between-the-rails but any slack over the train would cause unwanted uncoupling.
On sidings I have strategically placed between-the-rail Kadee uncoupling magnets.
I used delayed uncoupling so the magnets are placed at the entrance of sidings or industries.
Depending on the siding or industry I might have more than one delayed uncoupling magnets strategically placed.
As has been mentioned keeping the uncoupling areas close to the edge of the pike could be a solution. On my walk-around 4'x8' pike there is no place out or reach for uncoupling with a tool or 0-5-0.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL snjroy The uncoupling method is the other side of the equation, as others have pointed out here. If you are using the 5 finger crane, it doesn't really matter much what coupler type you are using. I also like "remote-control" operations and get good results using the Rapido uncoupler, with body-mounted kadees. Simon Rather than a five finger crane, lot of people who have kept all their relevant trackwork close to the benchwork edge use skewers, or small screwdrivers to manually uncouple Kadee couplers with minimal human contact to the rolling stock and without "lifting" the car with the five finger crane........ Magnetic uncoupling can be nice, but it limits you to the locations relative to the delayed backing move from the uncoupler location. Cheap plastic generic couplers flex, bend, loose springs, etc, under such use. Again, Kadee and only Kadee for me. In fact, I do not even use any of the "semi scale" couplers, only original size Kadee. I find the two different couplers do not interact as well as desired and the semi scale coupler has a reduced gathering range. Sheldon
snjroy The uncoupling method is the other side of the equation, as others have pointed out here. If you are using the 5 finger crane, it doesn't really matter much what coupler type you are using. I also like "remote-control" operations and get good results using the Rapido uncoupler, with body-mounted kadees. Simon
The uncoupling method is the other side of the equation, as others have pointed out here. If you are using the 5 finger crane, it doesn't really matter much what coupler type you are using. I also like "remote-control" operations and get good results using the Rapido uncoupler, with body-mounted kadees.
Simon
Rather than a five finger crane, lot of people who have kept all their relevant trackwork close to the benchwork edge use skewers, or small screwdrivers to manually uncouple Kadee couplers with minimal human contact to the rolling stock and without "lifting" the car with the five finger crane........
Magnetic uncoupling can be nice, but it limits you to the locations relative to the delayed backing move from the uncoupler location.
Cheap plastic generic couplers flex, bend, loose springs, etc, under such use.
Again, Kadee and only Kadee for me. In fact, I do not even use any of the "semi scale" couplers, only original size Kadee.
I find the two different couplers do not interact as well as desired and the semi scale coupler has a reduced gathering range.
Sheldon
I'm also a Kadee-only guy, but it helps to think about where you are trying to couple and uncouple. It can be hard, even with Kadees, to couple or uncouple on a curve. Ideally, you want a straight section twice as long as the cars you're dealing with, to allow the cars to straighten out on both sides of where you are doing the uncoupling to make the procedure smooth.
Make sure the couplers swing freely in their mounting boxes and recenter when not coupled, although they should be tight enough to avoid drooping. Get a coupler gauge and check everything before running.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
The reason the Bachman couplers are failing is because they use a small, some what but not really spriny piece of plastic instead of a proper spring. My younger cousin had a Bachmann train set with the same issue and that was the problem. The solution is replace them with KDs. It’s the defacto standard for our hobby and 99.999999% of use them.
With regards to uncoupling KD magnets work well. O guage couplers often work a bit more reliably for HO, but their strength does mean you can‘t have too much magnetic material on you cars or they will move to the magnets. Even HO guage magnets have this issue.
Comersial uncoupling tools are also nice, but a barbecue skewer with a good tip is alot cheaped and works equally well. A tooth pick is also nice, but a bit big in HO. It works well in N scale were a large barbecue skewer would through those light cars off the track.
Regards, Isaac
I model my railroad and you model yours! I model my way and you model yours!
I keep Kadee #5s and the equivalent whisker type on hand.
I tried Kadee under track magnets and also 3 pair of cylinder magnets uncoupler first. I think I will best like the Kadee 309 electric type I just installed. A bit of a project.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I would go with Kadees or Walthers Protomax II coupler since both brands are top line. I use both brands.
As far as uncoupling I still perfer using Kadee magnets over any other method. I guess that's because I still enjoy hands free uncoupling over the need to touch my cars in order to move them apart.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Kadees, no question.
On my Bachmann GP40s they require the #148s, on my GE 70-tonner it's #146ers for added coupler swing over the foot boards.
Most everything else, including conversions it's #5s with draft gear boxes.
I have one Märklin that uses the #18s.
Even if you have truck mounted couplers; Talgo, I highly recommend converting them to body mount eventhough Kadee offers a Talgo adapter solution. I have tired these and ended up harvesting the #5s and body mounted the couplers.
Good luck, and...
riogrande5761Why would you feel it's being a jerk to recommend a good solution based on a good deal of experience.
.
I don't know. I read my post a couple of times, and it just did not seem friendly to me, and that was not how I intended.
Maybe I am just overly sensitive today.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Why would you feel it's being a jerk to recommend a good solution based on a good deal of experience.
Kadees are a no brainier. Do it and you'll understand.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
John LawrenceWhat's the best solution for easy coupling and uncoupling?
I don't want to come across as a bit of a jerk, but honestly, Kadee couplers are the only way to go.
Everything else is a compromise.
Compromise elsewhere.
Replace them with Kadee couplers. They are made of metal and are eaiser to uncouple using screwer or magnets.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989