I have Bachman couplers on my HO train. They aren't working so well for uncoupling. What's the best solution for easy coupling and uncoupling?
Replace them with Kadee couplers. They are made of metal and are eaiser to uncouple using screwer or magnets.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
John LawrenceWhat's the best solution for easy coupling and uncoupling?
.
I don't want to come across as a bit of a jerk, but honestly, Kadee couplers are the only way to go.
Everything else is a compromise.
Compromise elsewhere.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Why would you feel it's being a jerk to recommend a good solution based on a good deal of experience.
Kadees are a no brainier. Do it and you'll understand.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761Why would you feel it's being a jerk to recommend a good solution based on a good deal of experience.
I don't know. I read my post a couple of times, and it just did not seem friendly to me, and that was not how I intended.
Maybe I am just overly sensitive today.
Hello All,
Kadees, no question.
On my Bachmann GP40s they require the #148s, on my GE 70-tonner it's #146ers for added coupler swing over the foot boards.
Most everything else, including conversions it's #5s with draft gear boxes.
I have one Märklin that uses the #18s.
Even if you have truck mounted couplers; Talgo, I highly recommend converting them to body mount eventhough Kadee offers a Talgo adapter solution. I have tired these and ended up harvesting the #5s and body mounted the couplers.
Good luck, and...
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I would go with Kadees or Walthers Protomax II coupler since both brands are top line. I use both brands.
As far as uncoupling I still perfer using Kadee magnets over any other method. I guess that's because I still enjoy hands free uncoupling over the need to touch my cars in order to move them apart.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
The uncoupling method is the other side of the equation, as others have pointed out here. If you are using the 5 finger crane, it doesn't really matter much what coupler type you are using. I also like "remote-control" operations and get good results using the Rapido uncoupler, with body-mounted kadees.
Simon
I keep Kadee #5s and the equivalent whisker type on hand.
I tried Kadee under track magnets and also 3 pair of cylinder magnets uncoupler first. I think I will best like the Kadee 309 electric type I just installed. A bit of a project.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
snjroy The uncoupling method is the other side of the equation, as others have pointed out here. If you are using the 5 finger crane, it doesn't really matter much what coupler type you are using. I also like "remote-control" operations and get good results using the Rapido uncoupler, with body-mounted kadees. Simon
Rather than a five finger crane, lot of people who have kept all their relevant trackwork close to the benchwork edge use skewers, or small screwdrivers to manually uncouple Kadee couplers with minimal human contact to the rolling stock and without "lifting" the car with the five finger crane........
Magnetic uncoupling can be nice, but it limits you to the locations relative to the delayed backing move from the uncoupler location.
Cheap plastic generic couplers flex, bend, loose springs, etc, under such use.
Again, Kadee and only Kadee for me. In fact, I do not even use any of the "semi scale" couplers, only original size Kadee.
I find the two different couplers do not interact as well as desired and the semi scale coupler has a reduced gathering range.
Sheldon
The reason the Bachman couplers are failing is because they use a small, some what but not really spriny piece of plastic instead of a proper spring. My younger cousin had a Bachmann train set with the same issue and that was the problem. The solution is replace them with KDs. It’s the defacto standard for our hobby and 99.999999% of use them.
With regards to uncoupling KD magnets work well. O guage couplers often work a bit more reliably for HO, but their strength does mean you can‘t have too much magnetic material on you cars or they will move to the magnets. Even HO guage magnets have this issue.
Comersial uncoupling tools are also nice, but a barbecue skewer with a good tip is alot cheaped and works equally well. A tooth pick is also nice, but a bit big in HO. It works well in N scale were a large barbecue skewer would through those light cars off the track.
Regards, Isaac
I model my railroad and you model yours! I model my way and you model yours!
I'm also a Kadee-only guy, but it helps to think about where you are trying to couple and uncouple. It can be hard, even with Kadees, to couple or uncouple on a curve. Ideally, you want a straight section twice as long as the cars you're dealing with, to allow the cars to straighten out on both sides of where you are doing the uncoupling to make the procedure smooth.
Make sure the couplers swing freely in their mounting boxes and recenter when not coupled, although they should be tight enough to avoid drooping. Get a coupler gauge and check everything before running.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL snjroy The uncoupling method is the other side of the equation, as others have pointed out here. If you are using the 5 finger crane, it doesn't really matter much what coupler type you are using. I also like "remote-control" operations and get good results using the Rapido uncoupler, with body-mounted kadees. Simon Rather than a five finger crane, lot of people who have kept all their relevant trackwork close to the benchwork edge use skewers, or small screwdrivers to manually uncouple Kadee couplers with minimal human contact to the rolling stock and without "lifting" the car with the five finger crane........ Magnetic uncoupling can be nice, but it limits you to the locations relative to the delayed backing move from the uncoupler location. Cheap plastic generic couplers flex, bend, loose springs, etc, under such use. Again, Kadee and only Kadee for me. In fact, I do not even use any of the "semi scale" couplers, only original size Kadee. I find the two different couplers do not interact as well as desired and the semi scale coupler has a reduced gathering range. Sheldon
As far as uncoupling on the main, if uncoupling is necessary I use the Kadee uncoupling tool or the 0-5-0 method. I tried using delayed action between-the-rails but any slack over the train would cause unwanted uncoupling.
On sidings I have strategically placed between-the-rail Kadee uncoupling magnets.
I used delayed uncoupling so the magnets are placed at the entrance of sidings or industries.
Depending on the siding or industry I might have more than one delayed uncoupling magnets strategically placed.
As has been mentioned keeping the uncoupling areas close to the edge of the pike could be a solution. On my walk-around 4'x8' pike there is no place out or reach for uncoupling with a tool or 0-5-0.
Not that I have anything against Kadee (far from it; I have them on my cars). Any clones the OP could use also? They might work for anyone with limited funds.
kasskabooseAny clones the OP could use also? They might work for anyone with limited funds.
BRAKIEI would go with Kadees or Walthers Protomax II coupler since both brands are top line. I use both brands.
As Brakie mentions the Walthers Protomax are a "close" clone of the Kadee #5.
However, the genuine Kadees (#5) are 20/$24 and the Protomax are 20/$26 (street price) so there is no real economy there.
For my use, Kadee is a coupler "system" and I keep dozens of styles and shank configurations on hand for particular needs knowing that they will all perform flawlessly.
As an alternate to a skewer, the Rix uncoupling magnet can also be a handy tool for uncoupling.
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/rix-products-ho-628-0014-uncoupling-tool/
Good Luck, Ed
gmpullmanAs an alternate to a skewer, the Rix uncoupling magnet can also be a handy tool for uncoupling. https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/rix-products-ho-628-0014-uncoupling-tool
I too have looked at the Rix tool.
Has anyone actually used them?
If they actually work I would gladly add it to my toolbox, despite the cost versus other "manual" less expensive methods.
Please chime in with you experiences with the Rix tool.
John Lawrence I have Bachman couplers on my HO train. They aren't working so well for uncoupling. What's the best solution for easy coupling and uncoupling?
John L., get some Kadee #5 or #148 (same standard head but different spring mechanism) and start with them and see how you like them. You will not go wrong with Kadee's. If your cars are weighted correctly, you should be happy and you will teach yourself how and when to use the different styles/#'s of Kadee couplers.
Then you can experment with different types of ways to uncouple them, Company made special tools ($) or tools made by yourself (hooked tip rod in a stick, very small straight blade screwdriver, flatten tip straight rod in a stick, etc.) Model RailRoading will make you a ''how to'' thinker. I used Kadee's way back and I crossed over to the other side of the track sometimes...but I ran back to the good side real fast. Kadee couplers are like toilet paper...well maybe not a good choice of word...but seems like every fifth time I leave the Hobby Shop I have some Kadee's in my bag if I need them or not. When Kadee's patent expired the ''Kadee plastic clone coupler's'' cost some modelers (me) good money.
But I did not throw them out (the plastic clones), I beheaded them and threw the coupler head minus the trip pin (cut it off or pull it out) in a gondola for scrap.
When I built my layout I planned for it to be no-touch, so it was all magnetic uncoupling and button controlled turnouts. I have a few electromagnets, too.
But, after a lot of running, I gradually migrated to bamboo skewers, as I moved away from the big-table format to more of a narrow shelf. I just find it easier to uncouple where I want to and not have to do the Gavotte with switcher and rolling stock just to spot a car on a siding.
I absolutely don't like the RIX tool. I bought one quite a while back and have never been able to get it to work for me. I have been using some nice, cheap, wood skewers from the grocery store. If you keep a nice point on them they work really well. Eventually I would like to add some uncoupling magnets at the entrance to my spurs. Also, I definitely throw my vote for Kadee couplers.
wdcrvr
The white offset handle Rix tool with two magnets on the sides. I have two of them and do not know when I used them last. It's been years. I like any single point item better.
Ok I lied, I just now used the RIX tool. It works ok, but it pulls it's self left or right into the uncoupling ''Hoses" before it rests on the rails. Ok, I'm done using them for another two years or more, maybe.
Accumate's ''switchman'' works very good with a modifacation of heatsrink tubing on the twirley top where your fingers twist the tool to use it. Makes it a light touch non-slip surface.
Now if I can only mount a very small LED that will activate when touched with fingers to close the circut so I can see down in between the cars for night moves.
Do not forget to get a Kadee coupler height tool ''Insulated'' #206'' so you can forget it's on your layout and not short out your power system or the old fashioned, oh lets call it Classic or Vintage ''metal'' #205, if this one is left on your layout, poof, down goes the system.
gmpullmanHowever, the genuine Kadees (#5) are 20/$24 and the Protomax are 20/$26 (street price) so there is no real economy there.
Ed, Maybe I should have made myself clearer? If the car comes with Protomax II then it stays since I fine no need to toss a good coupler and replace it with a KD-148 my standard replacement coupler.
Of course several of my car still have their #5s.
ATLANTIC CENTRALRather than a five finger crane, lot of people who have kept all their relevant trackwork close to the benchwork edge use skewers, or small screwdrivers to manually uncouple Kadee couplers with minimal human contact to the rolling stock and without "lifting" the car with the five finger crane........
Sheldon,As you know the the five finger method is still needed to shove the cars apart..
The beauty of magnetic uncoupling you can spot a car inside a industry building simply by uncoupling the car,backup a tiny bit then push the car to the spot the car inside the building.. Eazy peasy.
Magnetic uncoupling is what sold me on KaDees back in the mid-60s.
BRAKIE ATLANTIC CENTRAL Rather than a five finger crane, lot of people who have kept all their relevant trackwork close to the benchwork edge use skewers, or small screwdrivers to manually uncouple Kadee couplers with minimal human contact to the rolling stock and without "lifting" the car with the five finger crane........ Sheldon,As you know the the five finger method is still needed to shove the cars apart.. The beauty of magnetic uncoupling you can spot a car inside a industry building simply by uncoupling the car,backup a tiny bit then push the car to the spot the car inside the building.. Eazy peasy. Magnetic uncoupling is what sold me on KaDees back in the mid-60s.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Rather than a five finger crane, lot of people who have kept all their relevant trackwork close to the benchwork edge use skewers, or small screwdrivers to manually uncouple Kadee couplers with minimal human contact to the rolling stock and without "lifting" the car with the five finger crane........
The term "five finger crane" implies "lifting", that's what cranes do?
I use only one finger to steady and nudge the car being uncoupled.
I'm not against magnetic uncoupling, and will likely install some magnets in my industrial areas on the new layout, but really, the uncoupling and pushing is no more realistic than skewer/pick.
In my view, it is simply not practical to have magnets everywhere. Powered magnets are expensive and time consuming to install. Too many fixed magnets starts to be hard to manage in terms of unwanted uncoupling, and are not practical on mainlines. The very places you want them are the very places where unwanted uncoupling is likely.
These are 1/87 scale trains after all, I think we are still a ways off from little nano bots acting as brakeman.........
Hi John L.
It's pretty obvious by now that almost everyone who has replied to this thread is recommending Kadee couplers. What has not been discussed much is which type of Kadee to use. The old standard used to be a Kadee #5, and they do work well. However, they can be a bit of a pain to install because they come with a separate bronze centering spring, and getting everything in the right place when installing the coupler can be challenging. I have switched to Kadee #148s for all my new coupler replacements.
The advantage of the #148s is that the centering spring is built into the coupler shank. There is no separate spring to fuss with. They are much, much easier to install than the #5s. They do require some care. For example, it is easy to get one side of the coupler centering spring caught between the coupler box and the lid. That just means that you have to pay attention to the installation, just like anything else.
I should mention that Kadee offers a huge variety of custom purpose couplers. They offer couplers with both over set and under set shanks so you can adjust the height of the actual coupler without raising or lowering the height of the car body. Personally, I have only used a couple of the specialized couplers, mainly #711s for my HOn30 critters. However, if you are concerned about things like having all of your rolling stock at the proper height then you might want to explore some of the other Kadee options.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
jj wrote: "I too have looked at the Rix tool. Has anyone actually used them?"
I have and use one. It works pretty well with -most- cars (usually the ones that have Kadees). There are -some- cars it won't work on at all (and almost every time, it's a car that has non-Kadee clone couplers).
jjdamnit....I too have looked at the Rix tool. Has anyone actually used them? If they actually work I would gladly add it to my toolbox, despite the cost versus other "manual" less expensive methods. Please chime in with you experiences with the Rix tool.
I have the Rix uncoupling tool and it works fine - I have better results with it than I do using skewers.It is, however, not of much use for passenger cars with diaphragms, and I almost invariably use the between-the-rails magnets for those cars - easier than the 0-5-0 switcher, even if I have to drag the train around to find the nearest available magnet.
When I started in HO in the mid-'50s, it was with Kadee's K-type couplers, which coupled in a manner very similar to those we use today.However, uncoupling was done mechanically, with a diamond-shaped "ramp", remotely-controlled on my layout. With the press of a button on the track diagram on the control panel, the ramp raised, spreading apart the "pins" extending down from the couplers' knuckles as the train passed over the ramp, and thus opening them.Here's what the couplers looked liked...
I don't have a photo of the ramp, but it was blackened metal and quite thin - much less noticeable than the between-the-rails magnets that we use now.
When the Magnematic couplers replaced the K-type, and I was forced to buy them, the first thing I did when installing them was to cut-off the so-called "air hose" - it never looked like one to me, and it still doesn't, but I eventually came to use them, and have to admit that they work well for uncoupling and delayed uncoupling. I still don't like the look of that "air hose", though!
All of the tracks in my staging yards have the between-the-rails magnets, and a couple of not-easy-to-reach industrial tracks do, too, but there are none on the mainlines or at most industries, as the Rix tool works fine.
Wayne
kasskaboose Not that I have anything against Kadee (far from it; I have them on my cars). Any clones the OP could use also? They might work for anyone with limited funds.
If you have limited funds, I recommend the bulk packs which bring the cost down nicely.
I ignored much advice and put the first generation Bachman EZ mates on a bunch of my rolling stock early on. Most work OK, but a few have already gone wonky. I have a couple of cars that came with the EZ Mate Mk2 that have a spring (Mk 1 had the weak little plastic pressure arm) and they work ok so I haven't changed them but I really don't trust them.
Since then I've gone all in with KD's. I recommend the #148 for ease of instalation compared to the classic #5. They are a smidge more expensive than #5, but so easy to install that it's worth it.
If I have a car that needs something special, I just ask my local hobby shop and the owner points me to the correct model for that application.
Lastly, the metal KD clones such as Walthers ProtoMax seem to work quite well and I've had no desire to swap them out on cars that include them.
Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad for Chicago Trainspotting and Budget Model Railroading.
RR_MelI’m surprised that no one has brought up the DCC Remote Coupler Kits.
Hi Mel,
Can you provide a link or perhaps some pictures? I don't think I've ever seen them before.
Thanks,