First, I admit to the newbie mistake of laying (but thankfully not ballasted) track before thorough soap and water cleaning. So I find myself probably having a harder time than I should. Such is the price.
In a nutshell, no matter what I try, or how many times I do it, my cloth always winds up dirty from the rails. I'm using Atlas flex, with Peco turnouts, all code 100 nickle-silver for HO, all new. I first wiped a small section, about 3 feet long, with a piece of cork - came up dirty, as expected. Next, got some warm water and a toothbrush and went at it, then wiped it off with a clean, moist rag. That rag shows dirty rails. Then saturated a small section of cloth with 91% isopropyl and rubbed it, bearing down with my finger on the rail head, so there was no contact with the ties. Cloth showed dirty rails. Repeated this about 5 times. Each time, the cloth showed dirty rails, with no lessening.
On another small section of rail, I used a metal polish, wiping off with a clean cloth. Dirty. Repeated 3 times. Each time, same amount of dirt.
Am I expecting too much? Being nickle-silver rail, will there always be blackening from a rag applied to the rails?
When I initially tried out an engine with my NCE PowerCab (hey, I said I was a newbie!), I got loads of stalls, which led me to my cleaning frenzy. Haven't tried the engine on that section of track yet. Didn't want to run it until I cleaned the rails, and didn't want to do that until I had a thoroughly cleaned section of track.
Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and thanks for putting up with this.
Rich
Welcome Rich, looks like you've been here a while, and it shows 0 post, which seems odd, concidering this post should at least be #1.
Track cleaning. I've never washed any track in soap and water, at any time. I think you might be expecting a little much.
You'll always get some residue on the rag.
I wouldn't get too carried away with the metal polish, that's not needed.
If you don't think the rag is enough, try a "bright-boy" track cleaner. It looks like an eraser. Some on here will cringe at the use, but many others swear by it. It is a very slight abrasive.
After that a quick wiping with the alcohol, and run trains!
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/walthers-949-521-o-ho-n-z-bright-boy/
Not promoting Model Trains as the place to shop, but just about all the stores carries them.
Mike.
EDIT: I see your posting statis changed while I was typing.
My You Tube
I disagree on the Bright Boy! They create pits or holes in the track that allows dirt/residue to gunk (engineering term) the track. My method is using cheap 90% rubbing alcohol on a rag.
Two things to avoid to clean track: Bright Boy and sandpaper.
Here we go, just like I said in my post, here comes the"hair on fire crowd" on the bright boy
I agree with Kasskaboose. I will only use Bright Boy when the track is highly oxidized (happens at our club), and by rubbing it very gently. Otherwise, alcohol and a good clean rag does wonders. Water and soap are unnecessary, and probably does more harm than anything else. If your engines stall in many places, you might want to expand your detective work... check for bad contacts (between track sections), dirty wheels, etc.
Simon
Thank you, Mike and kasskaboose, for your prompt responses. Yeah - been a member for a while, but always a lurker. Finally retired and able to build a layout. Between MR videos and creative adaptation, I've been doing fine on benchwork, trackwork, and wiring.
But, I see now that I've been over-thinking the rail-cleaning business. Not knowing better, I've been expecting no residue on the alcohol cloth. Took your advice and cleaned a short section of track, cleaned the engine wheels, and tested it. Worked fine at slow speed, except a couple of small sections, highlighting little areas I missed. Repeat application, and it works fine.
Other similar discussions have tended to discourage the use of abrasives, and to suggest the use of metal polish for both rail cleaning and also better electrical contact. It won't hurt to try this out on another short, pre-cleaned section of track, maybe about 6' long, and see how that goes.
This is the point in my construction when experimentation with different methods under the conditions that exist for me should show me the best route.
Again, thanks!
rmr02Other similar discussions have tended to discourage the use of abrasives, and to suggest the use of metal polish for both rail cleaning and also better electrical contact. It won't hurt to try this out on another short, pre-cleaned section of track, maybe about 6' long, and see how that goes.
Yes there have been exhausting discussions on track cleaning and bright boys.
If your sceptical at all, then don't use anything abrasive, that simple.
I would even go as far to say that if you have new-in-the-box track, don't use the bright boy.
My track is far from new, reused since the 80's, and I have not had any problems, and it has seen the bright boy a few times through the years, so it's a non-issue with me.
My trains run great.
I find that just a couple of times around my lay out with the track cleaning car, either using alcohol, or lacquer thinner, does a fine job. A lot of my track is hidden, so thats why I use the car.
Run trains! that keeps the track clean.
Track cleaning is one of the most often discussed, and disputed, topics on this forum. For every cleaning method suggested, some will swear by it while others swear at it! The fact of the matter is that bare metal starts to oxidize the instant we stop cleaning it. The model industry switched to nickel silver track because the oxidation that occurs remains electrically conductive (to a point). In comparison, the oxidation on brass rail was significantly less conductive and required more frequent cleaning for reliable operation. Even the cleanest nickel silver track is likely to leave black streaks on your cleaning rag so don't kill yourself trying for a clean rag! Don't forget that the wheels of your trains will require periodic cleaning, too. Once you get your track clean and your trains running well, application of an oxidation inhibitor can help keep your track cleaner for longer periods. Of course, this is also a highly disputed practice! Certain metal polishes, electronics lubricants, hair clipper oil, and even automotive automatic transmission fluid have been used for this purpose. I have tried a few. Metal polishes are a LOT of work and, if not completely buffed off, will leave a white residue on the sides of the rails. Several members of an operating group I belong to prefer to keep a light film of Deoxit D5 or CRC 2-26 on the rails. Not only do both products help clean the oxidation off the rails, but both inhibit the creation of more oxidation. Yes, they are also lubricants which means that too much on the rails will affect loco traction. As long as you wipe off most of the oxidation inhibitor, you shouldn't have any significant traction problems.
There are also a lot of different track cleaning cars. Most use some means of wiping the rail clean, with or without some type of cleaning solution. These are big help with regular maintenance as you can let your trains do the cleaning for you. Prices range from almost nothing to convert an existing boxcar up to over $100 for a Centerline or Aztec cleaning car.
Converting a boxcar can be done with a small rectangle of Masonite, a couple of nails, and a block of wood or metal sized to fit inside the boxcar to act as a weight. Cut a piece of Masonite into a rectangle about 2 inches long and 1 1/4" wide. Taper the rough side of the ends of the rectangle using sandpaper to ensure that the pad ends don't catch on your trackwork. Glue the nail heads to the smooth side of the Masonite rectangle, centered and equidistant from each end. Drill holes through the floor of the boxcar corresponding to the nail positions so that the Masonite pad sits within the sides of the boxcar and between the trucks. The holes should be slightly larger than the nails so that the nails can slide in and out without friction. Next, drill holes in the block of wood or metal weight corresponding to the nail positions and sized for a friction fit. With the body of the boxcar removed, slide the nails through the bottom of the car floor. Place the wood block or metal weight on the nails tips and gently press the nails into the wood block or metal weight. Replace the body of the boxcar and ensure that the Masonite pad is free to move up and down below the car. Place the car on the tracks and pull it around with a loco. You'll be amazed at the black streaks that appear on the Masonite pad where it rubs along the rail heads. Some people prefer to use springs on the nails instead of the weight block but that can adversly affect the way the car stays on the tracks.
Try your own experiments and find what works for you. Good luck !
Hornblower
"Track cleaning is one of the most often discussed, and disputed, topics on this forum." Yeah, track cleaning is up there with which DCC system is the best. I have a track cleaning car and use either lacuqer thinner, ACT-6006 or denatured alchohol. If I have to use elbow grease on a section, I go with the denatured alchohol. I try to avoid abrasives like bright boys etc.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
rmr02before thorough soap and water cleaning.
.
I have never cleaned track with soad and water.
I'll just throw this out there, and everyone else can call me nuts.
I clean my track with #4000 crocus cloth and then polish it with a silver coin. All I ever use to clean my track is that worm out silver coin.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Thank you to everyone who replied. The only reason I posted is because I haven't seen elsewhere anything explicitly stating that a cleaning cloth will always show some blackening. Now I know that it will, and it's no big deal. At least some new information has been presented here, potentially of use to other newbies.
Thanks for the tip on Deoxyit. I think this is also worth a test on a section of track. I have about 40' of track laid and electrically connected (feeders for every section), but will only be scenicking about a 10' x 2' section for the first year. This leaves a good deal of track in unscenicked areas ripe for experimentation, so I'll be able to try out several different methods at once.
Standing Liberty quarter - now that really IS neat!
rmr02Thanks for the tip on Deoxyit. I think this is also worth a test on a section of track. I have about 40' of track laid and electrically connected (feeders for every section), but will only be scenicking about a 10' x 2' section for the first year. This leaves a good deal of track in unscenicked areas ripe for experimentation, so I'll be able to try out several different methods at once.
A word of advice..Don't get caught up in gimmicks or every sure fire way to clean track..This could lead to the funny farm since track cleaning methods changes almost monthly.
Nothing beats a bright boy and old fashion elbow grease.
Those scratches are micro scratches seen under a microscope at several thousands setting on the microscope.
Nothing has been proved or disproved that those microscratches hurts operation other a article written several years ago in MR.
A gain of salt was needed then as well as now.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
BRAKIEA word of advice..Don't get caught up in gimmicks or every sure fire way to clean track..This could lead to the funny farm since track cleaning methods changes almost monthly. Nothing beats a bright boy and old fashion elbow grease. Those scratches are micro scratches seen under a microscope at several thousands setting on the microscope. Nothing has been proved or disproved that those microscratches hurts operation other a article written several years ago in MR. A gain of salt was needed then as well as now.
I agree with Larry, most of that stuff labled as track cleaner is a waste of time and money.
I've be useing a BB for 15? yrs, even used a file acouple times ,no issues.
The only time I really clean track is after construction,clean off paint and glue.
I use ATF, it works, can't tell you why or how but it works, good enuff for me.
There are a lot of different methods, each has its enthusiast and defenders. I clean my track by wiping it down with a rag soaked in solvent. I hold the rag in my hands, and wipe one rail at a time. In the past I have used alcohol for the solvent. Lately (last 10 years or so) I have used Goo-Gone. Goo-Gone is some what acid and will cut thru rail oxidation. There is a strong anti-Goo Gone faction who claims that Goo Gone never dries and cruds up your wheels. I still use Goo Gone. After cleaning your track it is a fine time to clean the wheels of all your rolling stock. Running dirty wheels over clean track makes dirty track fairly quickly. I soak a paper towel in Goo Gone, lay the towel on the track, and roll the cars over the towel by hand. I don't use a bright boy for track cleaning because I have never encounter rail crud that won't come off with Goo-Gone. The anti Bright Boy crowd (there are a lot of 'em) claims the bright boy scratches in the railheads collect crud and pass the crud on to your wheels. I have listened to the oil the rail crowd but I don't oil my track.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
SeeYou190. I clean my track with #4000 crocus cloth and then polish it with a silver coin. All I ever use to clean my track is that worm out silver coin. -Kevin
I'm an "evolved" gleemer - now using 12,000 grit waterproof paper wrapped around a wood block, and this alone puts a near-mirror finish on the rails, which I follow with a brief buffing with a stainless steel washer.
I say "evolved" - because the original gleeming concept used 400, then 600 grit, followed by lots of buffing with the washer. Subsequent posts recommended the finer grit which is much faster and easier.
I buy the Ultra Fine Waterproof Finishing Kit "Professional Hobby Pack" (8 sheets, 1 each of grit 320 thru 12000) at Hobby Lobby, $9.99, but use the 40% off coupon. The one sheet of 12000 grit can be cleaned with dish detergent and re-used many times. The stainless steel (much harder than nickel-silver) washer is an automobile fender washer, sold at Lowe's-Home Depot, with a handle of stripwood or styrene goo'd to one side.
My track requires no other cleaning except for running the vacuum over it following a lot of layout construction activity.
Every post on this topic is guaranteed to bring out a wide variety of tried-and-true methods, but IMHO... minimizing scratches on the rail surface is a good thing.
"Just saying." Now excuse me while I run for cover!
Jim
I'm still inclined to say an imporant part is to think of the "systems" involved.
In my case, it is "gleamed" track (including a polish step that no doubt fades), use of John Allen masonite track cleaning cars in my freight trains, occasional CMX track cleaning car runs (I use denatured alcohol), metal freight car wheelsets, and cleaning loco wheels occasionally by running over an alcohol wet piece of paper towel. When it's time to clean the track it may be time to clean the loco wheels (and tender pickups). It all works together IMHO.
An important variable is the layout environment. My layout in a climate controlled house, windows hardly ever opened, non-smoking, gas furnace, etc., is no doubt easier than a garage environment, etc.
So, try the options and find what works for you. If DCC, it is worth optimizing as it can be more sensitive.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
My newest track cleaning tool is Walthers #949-522 Cratex Abrasive Block XF (xtra fine). I like it.