Hi,
It's a bit embarrassing to ask this for I really should know the answer.
I'm fixin to decal a model. I'm looking to spray with Dull-Cote afterwards. Will the Dull-Cote mess up the decals?
Thank you for your input/experience!
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Bakersfield, California
The best luck I have had has been to gloss coat the model, decal, gloss coat again to seal the decals on the model and then as a last step dull cote it. This gives the model an even sheen.
In the past when I didn'd do the second gloss coat the decals had a different sheen to them (they seemed absorb the dullcote differently than the paint).
I know it seems to be a lot of work but its the best results that I have had. Here is my most recent decal job and the last locomotive I did as well.
Colorado Front Range Railroad: http://www.coloradofrontrangerr.com/
1) To answer your question... Testors #1260 Dullcote will not hurt the decals.
.
2) Renegade described the best procedure.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
All true,
However.... (ominous music playing) If you use alcohol base Hunters weathering stains or decide to wipe the fingerprints off your model with alcohol, before you airbrush some weathering, you are going to get ugly white stains where the dullcote is.
If you have silvering with your decals, dullcote doesn't cure it.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I use the same procedure as Kevin and Renegade, and while I have used alcohol to remove paint, don't use it as a cleaning agent, especially on a freshly-painted, ready-to-decal model.
The first application of Glosscote should be allowed to dry (harden) completely before decal work, and especially the application of decal setting solutions.
Once the decal work is finished, the second application of Glosscote can be done, and as soon as it's dry to the touch, the Dullcote can be applied.
Again, it's a good idea to let those applications dry completely before adding weathering effects.
Wayne
BigDaddy If you use alcohol base Hunters weathering stains or decide to wipe the fingerprints off your model with alcohol, before you airbrush some weathering, you are going to get ugly white stains where the dullcote is.
Good to know Henry!
Thanks,
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Renagade. Being a 70s fan of the Rio Grande I'd like to know more about your cabooses. Are they Shapeways and if so which a d how did you finish them?
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761 Renagade. Being a 70s fan of the Rio Grande I'd like to know more about your cabooses. Are they Shapeways and if so which a d how did you finish them?
They are actually ProtoWest Scale Models Resin kits that I finally had the courage to tackle. I haven't tried to get one 3D printed yet but may be an option with the Resin Printers they have these days.
I also have plans for the scratchbuilt one I made from Flat Styrene but what hold me back on doing that again is all the rivets. I spend two weeks putting them on.
Thank you folks!
Your answers are what I thought to be the case, but didn't want to risk messing up the model.
Geez, I just realized 've been on this Forum for over 15 years!
I had my own design decals laser printed and applying dull cote ruined them. I think this may be the only exception to the rule.
Mark
markie97I had my own design decals laser printed and applying dull cote ruined them
Mark, did you spray them with anything before the dullcote?
Been using Dull Cote over decals for decades. Never had a problem. Some caveats. You want to settle the decals down good with Solvaset. You want to let the decals get good and dry, overnight at least. I never did home made decals on my inkjet. My experience is all with good commercial decals , Champ (RIP) Micro Scale and Bishop Graphics. No home printed decals.
Once more caveat. I did have a commercial clear flat rattle can finish crinkle ALL the decals on a home painted New Haven boxcar years ago. PITA. After that experience I went back to good old Dull Cote and haven't had any trouble with it.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
It depends on the decal paper you used! I have been using Evan Designs decal paper for several years. I like it because the decal sheets are 8 1/2" by 11", the paper has a coating that absorbs the ink meaning these decals do not require a sealer be sprayed over the decal to keep the ink from smearing, plus, you can make both opaque white background decal AND clear background decals from the same sheet of decal paper. If you want the background to remain opaque white, you need to use acrylic based clear coats over these decals (non-aerosol only). If you want the opaque white background to turn clear and stay clear, using any type of solvent based clear will permanently turn the white background clear. Do not use a solvent based clear over an acrylic based clear as the solvents will still leach through the acrylic clear turning the white background clear. Do not use an aerosol acrylic clear as the propellant chemicals will also turn the white background clear (don't ask how I know this). As far as I know, this is only true for the Evan Designs decal paper.
Hornblower