HO Hayes Bumper

[GNMT76]

Who manufactures an HO Hayes bumper out of metal? 

Thanks!

[BigDaddy]

Alexander scale models, Wiseman Model Services

[MisterBeasley]

Is there any problem with the plastic ones?

[gmpullman]

MisterBeasley

Is there any problem with the plastic ones?

I'm wondering that myself.

Peco makes a pretty nicely detailed Hays bumper:

Hays_2 by Edmund, on Flickr

I added the coupler to mimic a bumper style that I've seen sometimes.

283 by Edmund, on Flickr

This one happens to be in my back yard 

 

I believe Tomar makes a brass Hays type bumper already soldered to a short length of code 100 or 83 HO track. Of course you have to insulate at least one rail.

 

It can be found, among other choices, here:

https://www.walthers.com/products/layout/track-and-accessories/bumper-wheel-stop/scale/ho-scale

 

Good Luck, Ed

[Bubbytrains]

I use Walthers plastic bumpers kits, 12/pkg, which I have been very happy with. Walthers Part # 933-3511. $14.98 msrp. They go together well, look realistic, and are durable enough for normal layout usage. 

[GNMT76]

BigDaddy

Alexander scale models, Wiseman Model Services

 

 

Thanks, Henry.  Do they come assembled or require soldering?  The site doesn't say.

[GNMT76]

Bubbytrains

I use Walthers plastic bumpers kits, 12/pkg, which I have been very happy with. Walthers Part # 933-3511. $14.98 msrp. They go together well, look realistic, and are durable enough for normal layout usage. 

 

 

The query was for metal.

[BigDaddy]

GNMT76

Thanks, Henry. Do they come assembled or require soldering? The site doesn't say.

They look like pot metal to me, so CA or maybe some of that 90 sec epoxy someone posted about recently.

[rrinker]

 Note with metal ones thay have to be insulated from the rails somehow, or the rails gapped. The Walthers plastic ones are arguably FINER detail than the metal ones, yet tough enough to stand up without breaking if you look at them sideways. 

                             --Randy

 

[SeeYou190]

If you have to have metal, the Tomar model looks good to me.

.

I like wheel stops better than bumpers.

.

-Kevin

.

[Bubbytrains]

Yes, but I couldn’t tell if you knew about the plastic ones.

Happy Model Railroading!

Best,

Alan

 

GNMT76

 

 

Bubbytrains

I use Walthers plastic bumpers kits, 12/pkg, which I have been very happy with. Walthers Part # 933-3511. $14.98 msrp. They go together well, look realistic, and are durable enough for normal layout usage. 

 

 

 

 

The query was for metal.

 

[SeeYou190]

Bubbytrains

But, like others have asked, what’s wrong with plastic?

.

I would also like to know why plastic is a deal breaker.

.

The Walthers plastic bumpers look better than any of the metal models listed here.

.

-Kevin

.

[nealknows]

Geez, does every reply need an explanation of why someone asks for something specific? If the OP asked for metal, why does he have to justify a reply to someone wanting him to try plastic or another material? 

Sometimes I think others have nothing better to do than to berate someone for not replying to a question. Some may not be polite as others, and some may feel they're getting interrogated.

[rrinker]

 No one is berating anyone. How do you know the OP is even aware that there are plastic versions of those old metal models (at least the Alexander ones has been around a LONG time)? I see nothing wrong with pointing out ALL options; it's certainly not condescending to do so.

                               --Randy

 

[BigDaddy]

Neal I agree with you.  It's almost amusing that people feel they are owed an explanation for what the OP wants. 

It's not unreasonable to suggest what people feel are better alternatives, but what any of us want, on our railroad, is subjective.

[Bubbytrains]

Model Railroading is Fun!

[GNMT76]

nealknows

Geez, does every reply need an explanation of why someone asks for something specific? If the OP asked for metal, why does he have to justify a reply to someone wanting him to try plastic or another material? 

Sometimes I think others have nothing better to do than to berate someone for not replying to a question. Some may not be polite as others, and some may feel they're getting interrogated.

 

 

Neal of NJ,

 

Precisely. 

 

As someone recently noted on another forum, please give OPs credit for seeking specific answers to specific questions and for best knowing what they need or want.  Focused queries are just that.

 

Thank you all who provided sources for the bumpers.  I've now got enough information to proceed.                 

 

 

[GNMT76]

rrinker

 Note with metal ones thay have to be insulated from the rails somehow, or the rails gapped. The Walthers plastic ones are arguably FINER detail than the metal ones, yet tough enough to stand up without breaking if you look at them sideways. 

                             --Randy

 

 

Randy,

Thanks for that heads-up.  Do both rails need to insulated or just one? 

[gmpullman]

GNMT76

Randy, Thanks for that heads-up.  Do both rails need to insulated or just one? 

I'm almost afraid to answer now...

IF you insulate one rail it will work.

There is a possibility that a locomotive with a "hot" frame (Athearn BB and some Life-Like) and the coupler touches the bumper you'll possibly get a short (50/50 chance).

Insulating both rails will insure against this.

I hope that's not too much information.

Maybe Randy can elaborate.

Have a Happy Day,

Ed

[hon30critter]

We seem to have a little friction here.

The forum rules state that anyone can respond to a thread or a post as long as they stay within the rules. The friction could have been avoided if the OP had been a bit more polite when clarifying the fact that he wanted metal bumpers only. The word 'thanks' comes to mind. On the other hand, the responder could have responded a bit more congienially (sp?), or maybe not at all, when the clarification was posted.

Let's all get back into the Christmas spirit please.

Dave

 

[Bubbytrains]

hon30critter

We seem to have a little friction here.

 On the other hand, the responder could have responded a bit more congienially (sp?), or maybe not at all, when the clarification was posted.

 

Right you are hon30critter. I should have said nothing at all. I have edited my previous comments to be more congenial. I think you spelled it right, too! Happy New Year

[GNMT76]

gmpullman

 GNMT76

Randy, Thanks for that heads-up.  Do both rails need to insulated or just one? 

 

I'm almost afraid to answer now...

IF you insulate one rail it will work.

There is a possibility that a locomotive with a "hot" frame (Athearn BB and some Life-Like) and the coupler touches the bumper you'll possibly get a short (50/50 chance).

Insulating both rails will insure against this.

I hope that's not too much information.

Maybe Randy can elaborate.

Have a Happy Day,

Ed

 

 

Ed,

Not at all.  Helpful info for a potential one wants to avoid.

 

Each of the three tracks in need of a bumper has one insulated rail for purposes of parking unused locos in the yards and on a siding.  Thus, I can't gap both.  But good to know about a possible short. 

 

Please clarify "hot" frame.  I get what you're describing but have never heard the term.  My locos are Walthers Proto and MTH diesels and a c. 1983 Rivarossi 2-8-0. The former two have new Kadee couplers, the latter whatever it came with.  Might a coat or two of paint on the bumpers prevent or at least mitigate possible shorts?

[gmpullman]

GNMT76

Please clarify "hot" frame. 

The older Athearn and early Proto Life-Like Locos use one side of the truck to pick up current that then passes through the bolster and on to the motor.

If you use the regular Kadee #5 coupler and bronze spring your coupler will have the power of one rail fed to it. This can be a problem if you couple two such locos back-to-back as they will short through the coupler.

Kadee makes a composite coupler that insulates the connection. 

It would be a rare occurrence but you could possibly short the bumper to that coupler IF you only insulated one side (rail) of the metal bumper.

I used to have quite a few of those Tomar bumpers and had a brass engine parked on a siding. (Brass engines will act the same way since the rail current is passed through the frame) I kept getting a short and forgot all about the metal bumper.

Sure enough, somehow the engine got bumped against the bumper and was shorted. Normally I park cars or engines an inch or two away but this one got pushed against the bumper.

GNMT76

Each of the three tracks in need of a bumper has one insulated rail for purposes of parking unused locos in the yards and on a siding.  Thus, I can't gap both.

I don't know how they are now but Tomar used to supply two insulated joiners with each bumper. It doesn't hurt to use two since the insulated length of track is only a few inches. It won't affect where you have the gap at the other end where the track switch is, the gaps would be very near the bumper itself.

Good Luck, Ed

 

[mvlandsw]

The gaps can be right next to the bumper in the last couple of inches of the track. Make them close enough that no wheels cannot bridge them. That way they won't affect the rest of the track, assuming your power feeders are not attached behind the bumpers.

["JaBear"]

Bumper by Bear, on Flickr

[rrinker]

 Both rails is always the sure way - that way no matte rwhat locos you have today or tomorrow can cause a problem. My test/program track has a pair of Kadee couple gauges on the ends. The metal ones, not those new plastic ones. So I gapped both rails and each end. No chance of a problem.

 Cutting the gaps close to the bumper (or the track gauges) presents its own problem - you end up with the rail held on by 2 or 3 ties at the most. To keep a slight bump from dislodging the gauges, I used CA to secure the rail to the ties. I suppose I could have also driven a wood screw down the hole in the Kadee gauge, but a bumper doesn;t offer that option. Being metal they can be soldered to the rail (unless they are pot metal), but then the short bit of rail could come loose, so the CA will help. 

                                    --Randy

 

[GNMT76]

gmpullman

 GNMT76

Please clarify "hot" frame. 

 GNMT76

Each of the three tracks in need of a bumper has one insulated rail for purposes of parking unused locos in the yards and on a siding.  Thus, I can't gap both.

I don't know how they are now but Tomar used to supply two insulated joiners with each bumper. It doesn't hurt to use two since the insulated length of track is only a few inches. It won't affect where you have the gap at the other end where the track switch is, the gaps would be very near the bumper itself.

Good Luck, Ed

 

Ed,

Good tip!  I just may go that route.  The Tomar bumpers still come with a short section of track and two plastic rail joiners at $5.75 each.  Easy-peasey remedy.

[GNMT76]

rrinker

 Both rails is always the sure way - that way no matte rwhat locos you have today or tomorrow can cause a problem. My test/program track has a pair of Kadee couple gauges on the ends. The metal ones, not those new plastic ones. So I gapped both rails and each end. No chance of a problem.

 Cutting the gaps close to the bumper (or the track gauges) presents its own problem - you end up with the rail held on by 2 or 3 ties at the most. To keep a slight bump from dislodging the gauges, I used CA to secure the rail to the ties. I suppose I could have also driven a wood screw down the hole in the Kadee gauge, but a bumper doesn;t offer that option. Being metal they can be soldered to the rail (unless they are pot metal), but then the short bit of rail could come loose, so the CA will help. 

                                    --Randy

 

Randy,

Thanks.  Good to know.  Tomar bumpers may well do the trick.

[riogrande5761]

Here are my Tomar bumping posts.  I bought them over 15 years ago.  Are they still being made?

 

[gmpullman]

riogrande5761

Are they still being made?

 

https://www.walthers.com/bumping-post-track-bumper-code-83-rail

 

Code 100, 83 and 70 in HO. Sold out but new stock coming in January, 2019.

Good Luck, Ed