Harrison I wrote an article of how to do this(much more simple) on my blog.
I wrote an article of how to do this(much more simple) on my blog.
Nice, I just built 3 of these kits last night, and I have 3 more to build. I need to go get some #5 couplers and add them like you did though, that seems nice. And I need to get them some metal wheels and then they will be ready to go on my club layout! (We have rules about metal couplers and metal wheels)
What started as a love of Thomas the Tank Engine has grown into this... a passion for all things railroading!
YouTube: FJX2000 Productions
Insta: hayden_trains_n_fjs
I like to use the floor upside down. The underframe can be glued securely to the flat side of the plastic floor instead of to the metal weight. This gives a better surface for any detailing and has a better appearance. The tab on the floor that goes in the slot at the door to retain the floor must be cut off. I usually glue the floor in but a friction fit works if you want to be able to remove the floor.
Mark Vinski
mvlandswI like to use the floor upside down.
That was a very useful technique championed by the club that built the New England Bershire And Western.
I have built a few with the floor upside down, but ultimately decided to develop my own set of improvements.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
NHTX Having owned some BB boxcars, I found that reducing the width of the portion of the car door that engaged the upper door guide eliminated the problem of door bowing. A few strokes of a file was all it took.
Having owned some BB boxcars, I found that reducing the width of the portion of the car door that engaged the upper door guide eliminated the problem of door bowing. A few strokes of a file was all it took.
I would do the door scraping thing as SOP on all my BB box cars just so my door would slide open and close as well. Never saw a bowed out door yet. Also bending the front edge slightly down before install and the catch ears inward on the metal coupler box cover after it was installed. I use to eye up and drill by sight for a screw in the coupler post. Then I found a drill jig (A-Line ?) to drill and tap the coupler center post and install a brass screw. Do not know if this screw was needed but I figured it could not hurt.
PC101Then I found a drill jig (A-Line ?) to drill and tap the coupler center post and install a brass screw.
If anyone can find me a part number for this drilling jig, I would love to have it. For Athearn Tank Cars and Cabooses this would be very helpful.
SeeYou190If anyone can find me a part number for this drilling jig, I would love to have it. For Athearn Tank Cars and Cabooses this would be very helpful.
https://ppw-aline.com/search?q=jig
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Henry, Thank you! I am ordering one, and it looks like it will make a difficult task much easier.
There was a lot of good information in this artical and I think it has helped me a lot with how to fix my busted up freight cars I have.
I will stop by Colonial Hobbies tonight and get some supplies and try to fix the broken knuckles I have and get some more train cars onto the tracks tonight.