Sorry for the newbie question, but was is the difference between insul-frog and electro-frog?
I am constructiong a ISL and running with DCC. My old layout had issues with MP15AC stalling out on my out atlas turnouts. I am looking at purchasing either PECO or ME switches and I just noticed two different types of PECO switches and I got a little nervous about buying the wrong type of product to suit my needs.
Welcome!
I don't know the particulars but pending knowledgeable others chiming in, you might find helpful info in prior threads. Note that the "search the community" box in the right column does not do a great job, so a goggle with "site:cs.trains.com (xyz)" gives good results.
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS759US759&ei=l-R0Ws6ZCYyTjgTel4uYDQ&q=site%3Acs.trains.com+electrofrog+insulfrog&oq=site%3Acs.trains.com+electrofrog+insulfrog&gs_l=psy-ab.12...2926.10239.0.14024.22.22.0.0.0.0.172.2074.19j3.22.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.m5gVDFZHr_w
A favorite site regarding DCC electrical is Wiring for DCC. I found helpful info on my chosen Walthers-Shinohara turnouts, and there is specific Peco info there also:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
To the forum
You can't power the frogs of insulfrogs, ever.
There are 2 ways of dealing with locos that stall on frogs, add a keep alive capacitor or power the frogs. Powering the frogs can be done with certain switch machines like the Tortoise or Blue Point or a Frog Juicer.
Some (but not all) people recommend modifying Peco turnouts for better reliability and less shorting.
You can search this forum with the box on the right, 1/2 way down or do a google search with cs.trains.com as one of the search parameters. We have had lots of threads on this topic, here is the most recent
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/267390.aspx?page=1
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
The Wiring for DCC site shows the difference pretty well. Insulfrogs work exactly like Atlas, except the insulated part at the frog is a tiny bit of plastic (so tiny that out of spec wheels can cause a short) so there is practically no dead spot. An Electrofrog has a metal frog and when wired properly has abbolsutely no dead spots. For best long term reliability they require a couple of modifications - the Code 83 versions already have nice gaps cut in the bottom of the plastic ties where these jumpers need to be soldered. The two diverging rails coming from the frog need insulating joiners or gaps cut with Electrofrogs. If you use an electronic accessory like the Tam Valley Depot Frog Juicer, you can get away with nothing more than the insulating gaps and the Electrofrog will operate great. But if you have a lot of turnouts that can get expensive. A little soldering at the bench before installing the turnout, and simple contacts on the switch motor to power the frog and you're good to go.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks! I couldn't find the search option on the page Earlier.
The easiest way to get the "official" answer is to search. Google is good, but I use "duckduckgo.com". Safer and not tracking. Try URL: https://www.peco-uk.com/ and you will find basic info, including full size turnout plans you can cut out. And on "YouTube.com", try: "Peco Turnouts". A wealth of info is there. And with YouTube.com, you can search till your heart is content. The caveat is: Too much info, so be careful what you read and only do what you understand and feel comfortable doing.