mobilman44 Whatever happened to the OP?
Whatever happened to the OP?
Rich
NWP SWP THE PRODIGAL SON RETURNETH! Greetings Gentlemen! Hopefully y'all remember me! Finally getting back into the hobby after over a year and a half of zero interest. Some updates for me. I am now living on my own and in uni full time at LSU studying business management and political science. Finally dropping my hairbrained NWP SWP nonsense and will be trying to stick to prototype modeling. Still not sold on one particular road but narrowed it down to SP, Southern, or Conrail. Just thought I'd give y'all an update and best wishes to everyone! Hopefully I'll be coming around more often in the future.
THE PRODIGAL SON RETURNETH!
Greetings Gentlemen! Hopefully y'all remember me!
Finally getting back into the hobby after over a year and a half of zero interest.
Some updates for me. I am now living on my own and in uni full time at LSU studying business management and political science.
Finally dropping my hairbrained NWP SWP nonsense and will be trying to stick to prototype modeling. Still not sold on one particular road but narrowed it down to SP, Southern, or Conrail.
Just thought I'd give y'all an update and best wishes to everyone!
Hopefully I'll be coming around more often in the future.
Alton Junction
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
More great stuff, guys! I love those hustler and 3 axle truck 'bashes.
Dan
ckapeHere's a model I made of Iowa Interstate 6988. Just like the prototype, it's kitbashed from a stock Chinese QJ locomotive
Well, I just learned a new thing today. I had not known about this locomotive.
Nice job on the kitbash.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Here's a model I made of Iowa Interstate 6988. Just like the prototype, it's kitbashed from a stock Chinese QJ locomotive, removing the cowling around the stack, replacing the Chinese headlights with a US style headlight, replacing the banner at the front with a IAIS herald, adding a bell, whistle, class lights, and antennas, and giving it a new paint job with some custom decals. I also had to add some plumbing that was more visible with the changes, a scratchbuilt feedwater heater, and rearranged the vents on the cab roof.
Note the flat head sloted screws close to the edge of the brass plate in the first picture? I drilled and tapped a hole over the journal box.
Bernd
NVSRR How did you connect the brass plate to the truck?shane
How did you connect the brass plate to the truck?shane
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds
protolancer(at)kingstonemodelworks(dot)com
HO Dummy Milwaukee Road FM h16-66 shortened Athern FMH24-24 with some body modifications. I forget the measurment ,but about 1inch or so short.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-HgPu1dRHw
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
I did a motor mod on a Atheran Hustler using a round motor from E-bay that has an rpm of around 6,200. Works great. The other Hustler was modified with a motor again from E-bay with some gearing added.
http://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/drivemod1-1.html
A couple of pictures.
The 6,200 RPM Motor.
NVSRR I have to get rid of the worm gear. it reduces to much. 15 seconds to go a foot at top speed.
Good work Shane. I love the picture with the hood removed. Nice installation of the tiny motor.
TP56 the shell and deck are 3D. the rest is kitbash. Had to take an athearn truck, build a motor mont and motorcoupling to it. Using the gearing already in the truck. Found a small motor that has a gear reduction gear train and was able to get that to fit with room to spare. Then had to construct the way to mount the chassis to the shell. I have to get rid of the worm gear. it reduces to much. 15 seconds to go a foot at top speed. Reminded me of the John Page article about a guy who regeared a locomovtive so slow the drivers made a revolution every 3 hours.
Shane
The photo links has been made easier to see now for the 2-6-6-2 and 2-6-8-0 builds
Here's one I did a few months ago. Korean National Railroad SDP28 #6104.
I started with an Atlas SDP35 and changed out a bunch of details. Cab, nose, and sub base were replaced with Cannon parts, the dynamic brake hatch was replaced with one from a Rail Power SD38, the radiator fan hatch was replaced with a Plano part, the handrail stanchions were rearranged, and detail parts were added.
-Peter. Mantua collector, 3D printing enthusiast, Korail modeler.
I had shared my N scale boxcab conversion I built when I was in High School in the thread earlier, but the image link had become inactive.
I will add it in again.
There's some outstanding work here that I missed the first time around. All of it, really. Thanks for bringing it back up.
Since this old thread has popped up, I'll add a link to my detailed build info on my NW2M that I posted recently.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/288953.aspx
This is the result:
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Thought I would share two kitbash projects that I used a Mantua 2-6-6-2 as starting point
# 1 2-6-6-2 with a Lt pacific boiler
#2 2-6-8-0 with Hvy Mikado boiler
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noj4LmmeBDM&pp=sAQA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8SnzkZItlI&pp=sAQA
railandsail mbinsewi Brian, (railandsail) is there supposed to be pictures in your last two post? I'm seeing nothing. Yes there are a number of photos that were included. I see them. Does anyone else not see them??
mbinsewi
Brian, (railandsail) is there supposed to be pictures in your last two post? I'm seeing nothing.
Yes there are a number of photos that were included. I see them. Does anyone else not see them??
Well..... as long as this thread is back from the land of "Zombie's".
Here's my Alco SW- 425 road switcher.
I took an Alco C425 shell ( Im sorry, I dont remember the manufacturer.... possably Stewart ?) And added an Athern SW-7 cab.
The frame is from a Stewart AS-616 ( no picture of the frame .... I can't find it at the moment. )
Rust...... It's a good thing !
@ Mike & Randy: thanks for the welcome and the nie comments
some more projects
RI 9006 - as the prototype it was made using a heavyweight car
RI late 601 - started as an ALCO FA
ATSF rebuilt #1 (bulldog) - started as a heavyweight coach
Regards
Norman
http://large-scaledieselmodels.blogspot.de/
I have completed three kitbashes. The first is a Con Cor C636 which is actually a C430. It came from my junk box. I removed the damaged cab and installed a Bachmann GE safety cab. It is now a BNSF C430W. The second is an SD60 MAC. I took an Atlas SD60M, removed the cab and battery boxes and installed a Kato four window SD70M cab. Painted and lettered it in the special BN light green and white paint scheme. I also converted an Atlas GP30 into a GP39-3 by removing and plating over the center fan.
BP20 chassis
I determined that the 3 axle truck frames on the DL109 model chassis were the same as on the BP20, and that the nose of that chassis would fit up into the plastic shell of a normal PRR Shark without a lot of excess trimming (but some would be required). I also determined that the wheel base of the BP20 was a little longer than the DL109. At the model size it works out to be a little less than 1/2 inches additional length needed. This nice robust cast metal frame of the stock DL109 needed to be extended a little less than 1/2 inch. I've found what I think to be the perfect solution,....a 1/2 inch piece of square steel tubing at Home Depot. Two pieces of 'square tube' inserted between the two sections, either side of the cut frame, should act nice and firmly to rejoin the frame at that slightly longer length. At first I was worried about the loss of a certain dimension from just the width of the saw blade used to cut the frame in half. But now that I see the dimension needed in the final frame as a bit less than 1/2 inch, I believe things will work out using a normal hack-saw blade that will remove some extra metal for the full 1/2 spacer tube to fill and make a frame slight less than 1/2 inch longer. I had to do some filing (quite a bit actually) on the cast metal frame to get reliefs I need to fit the 'Model Power' Shark shells to fit. So I've done that filing, and put together a 'temporary' demonstration BP20 shell to fit it. Here are some pics. I have not cut the frame and extended it yet, but I did make the 'drive shaft extension' I would need.
Some more photos here,...http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?31120-Kitbash-Long-Shark-BP20-and-a-B-unit-for-DL-109&p=303580#post303580
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
railandsailCan everybody see the photos posted below??
.
I see them!
Great project. Glad you are able to share.
Yep, I see'em. 5 images. I clicked on them to see where they came. Now I know where I've seen them before.
Looks like a cool project, and a good looking build.
Did you ever hear of the Diesel Detailer? Check it out sometime. Although, they also require a photo hosting site.
Mike.
My You Tube
I have not had time yet to make a new choice for a photo hosting site, but in the meantime I thought I would run another little experiment.Can everybody see the photos posted below??_______________________
These are a couple of more locos I plan on having in my stable. I was in the process of kitbashing them out of existing production locos rather than buying brass ones.
Two Projects UtilizingProto 1000, DL109 Chassis
1) Creating a 'B-unit' or DL-110 for the SantaFe
There were several roads that had B-units for their DL-109 locomotives. I've chosen to model the Santa Fe one. I had to make a choice where I would cut the two shells such as to end up with a proper window placement, and a reasonable duplication in the roof details. I need to finish the diaphram on the one end and the coupler mount.
Then it needs to be painted and decals added. Can someone HELP me with this painting and decaling??
2) Creating a 'plastic model' of the PRR, BP-20 Shark
I've always wanted one of these extra-long Sharks that PRR had...only them as far as I know. So likely you will never see them modeled in plastic in a production manner. The few attempts to provide a model for this BP20 never had a chassis of the proper wheel base. I've chosen the Proto DL 109 chassis. It has the proper trucks, and it has great weight and running qualities....even good speaker locations for a sound version. Had to do a bit of filing to get the shells to fit over the nose.
I am thinking about embarking on one of two kitbashes after the new year... One is a 4-8-8-4T with two tenders... the second and probably easier one is a centipede boxcab diesel styled like the NYC P-2 or T-2 electrics the wheel arrangement will be B-D-B+B-D-B I shall name my creation "Big John" it will have four motors! Maybe if it doesn't work I'll cut it in half and make "Little John" with a B-D-B wheel arrangement... I'll post a thread for the project when I begin.
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
The photos work for him because he is a member of that other forum and logged in. They theoretically would work for anyone if they went and joined that other forum where he posted them.
For further explanation - if you post a photo on a forum running on server A, and then post a link to it on another forum running on server B - every time someone opens the message on server B it has to download the picture to that person from server A. Linking uses MORE bandwidth than posting individual copies on every forum you want to share in. That's why most forums prevent external linking, and some even prevent you from seeing pictures on the actual site without being a memeber - a non-member may read the text but the images won't display for them.
That Davenport is really neat- I always like oddball locos you don;t see around very often.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
railandsailHow is it that the photos in my posting continue to appear correctly whenever i review my posting, but don't appear visable to others? I would have been more observent of the problem had that occured to me.
The photos have either already been linked and cached on your machine or are possibly liknked to the originals on your machine. They work for you because of that.
When someone else tried them, the webste doesn't honor that request (for a variety of possible reasons), which is why others don't see what you're seeing.
Ain't computerz phun?
Great work Norman, I had to check out your blog. I remember following your GM&O #1900 build in Diesel Detailer.
By the way, Welcome to the MRR forums!