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Custom building a locomotive

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  • Member since
    October 2017
  • 6 posts
Custom building a locomotive
Posted by Sonictrainguy51 on Wednesday, October 25, 2017 10:10 PM

I have this Walthers Trainline Santa Fe GP9M I bought a while back and since I don't model Santa Fe, I never really had a use for it. I decided that I want to turn it into a normal GP9 or a GP7. I have never custom built a locomotive before so i was hoping to get some pointers so I don't royally screw it up

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Thursday, October 26, 2017 10:44 AM

Welcome
 
I would look for a correct shell on eBay, that would be the easiest fix.
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sliver City,Mich.
  • 708 posts
Posted by Catt on Thursday, October 26, 2017 11:40 AM

The correct shell to start with would be the Athearn (blue box)shell for the GP-7/9 would  be your  closest match

Johnathan(Catt) Edwards 100 % Michigan Made
  • Member since
    May 2004
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Posted by 7j43k on Thursday, October 26, 2017 11:45 AM

Catt

The correct shell to start with would be the Athearn (blue box)shell for the GP-7/9 would  be your  closest match

 

 

The blue box Athearn GP7 (not 9) is a widebody, is it not?

Would that be a problem?

 

Ed

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
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Posted by RR_Mel on Thursday, October 26, 2017 12:41 PM

I once bought a Model Power GP9M just for kicks because it was new in the box delivered to the door for under $8.  As a working locomotive it’s a joke, it would have a hard time pulling two to gondolas full of butterflies downhill.  Its pretty and looks nice sitting in the yard.  Just for kicks I swapped around several shells from Proto, Atlas and Athearn, Any of the shells would work with a bit of under frame rework.  I painted it in the SP Black Widow color scheme and use it for looking good parked in my yard.
 
 
 The Gutless Wonder
 
I don’t think one could go wrong with any shell as long as it clears the motor.
 
Good luck!
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    August 2004
  • 232 posts
Posted by ckape on Thursday, October 26, 2017 1:41 PM

A Front Range shell woud probably be a better choice than the old Athearn widebody.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Franconia, NH
  • 3,130 posts
Posted by dstarr on Thursday, October 26, 2017 2:18 PM

Turn it into a normal GP9.  All normal GP9s are painted for one railroad or another.  The paint job is the first thing anyone sees.  First pick the railroad you want to paint it for.  Find a good color photo of your chosen road.  Look for decals for your chosen road.  You can do the paint job with just rattle cans, although an airbrush is nice if you have one.  Clean the surface of the shell with hot soapy water, rinse well, dry thoroughly.  Spray the lightest color first.  Give it a good dry before masking for the second color.  Make it the second lightest color.  If you put masking tape over not-quite-dry paint, it will pull the paint off when you remove the tape.  Burnish the edges of the tape down very firmly otherwise the new paint will leak under the tape.  Repeat for all the colors.   The undercarriage and the truck sideframes will look good painted with dark gray auto primer.  

   Details.  Each railroad tended to have their own little details.  Tool and battery boxes fixed to the deck.  SP used to install steam locomotive style head lamps in place of the factory installed automotive style sealed beam head lamps.  Snow plows.  fancy horns.  And more.  Find some photos of your  chosen road, go over it with a magnifying glass, and go to work. 

  The model will look better with glass in the cab windows, a crew, and head lights.  You don't want the headlamps to shine out thru the cab windows. A constant lighting circuit is just four diodes and 1.5 volt bulbs.  Bulbs look better than LEDs, they have the right yellow white color, LED's are too blue.  I don't do directional lighting.  Should the locomotive fail to move when you open the throttle, look at the headlamps.  If the headlamps light the locomotive is getting juice.  For this trick to work, you want the light showing in your direction to light up.  With directional lighting, Murphy's law says that the lamp you can see is the one that is off.   

It's best to finish all the detailing before you paint.

Good luck.  Post some pictures.

 

  • Member since
    October 2017
  • 6 posts
Posted by Sonictrainguy51 on Saturday, October 28, 2017 2:31 PM

Thank you for the advice. I don't think I'll be to do the lights just yet. This is my first time doing this. I model Canadian National so i'll start looking at pictures of their GP9s

  • Member since
    October 2017
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Posted by Sonictrainguy51 on Saturday, October 28, 2017 2:35 PM

I'll se what I can do. 

  • Member since
    January 2017
  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
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Posted by SeeYou190 on Friday, November 3, 2017 10:32 PM

Welcome

.

From your post I could not tell your skill set. If you feel comfortable with it, I would go with the Front Range shell and Rail Detail Products handrail kit.

.

Have fun!

.

-Kevin

.

Living the dream.

  • Member since
    October 2017
  • 6 posts
Posted by Sonictrainguy51 on Saturday, November 11, 2017 11:27 AM

Thank you all for the help. I have decided to model a gp9rm. I have stripped the paint off but i need some advice on getting the old cab off of the body.

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