Anyone had experience with "super Magnets" in old pitman motors? I have an old Mantua 0-4-0 someone put them in and it runs great and starts at lower voltages. I have another old Mantua 0-6-0 withe original magnets and it does not run smoothly and takes a higher starting voltage. I have cleaned loco and tender wheels, the armature, checked the worm gear setting. Also, I can't find a source for these magnets and don't know the cost. Might be better to buy NWSL replacement motor?
Thanks, Dan
Hello all,
I replaced the magnets in several Roundhouse Box Cab motors with Super Magnets.
To begin with the gearing on these locos was never great- -loud and slow- -at best!
I also converted them to DCC in the process.
After installing the Super Magnets I did notice an improvement in performance, especially on the slower speeds- -much smoother. The weak link is definitely the drive gears.
If re-motoring was an easy option for these locos I would have gone that route.
Quite frankly I didn't expect much from replacing the magnets but I was pleasantly surprised.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Dan, I have this with similiar locos to what you mentioned with very pleasant results. And I have a few more guinea pigs in the lot. The magnets are available from Proto:87 stores. Not glamorous but a way to have a fairly good running engine for a small price, even on a DCC layout.
Old Fat Robert
dbhone Also, I can't find a source for these magnets and don't know the cost. Might be better to buy NWSL replacement motor? Thanks, Dan
Here's another source for magnets. I've purchased from them and am a happy customer.
Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds
protolancer(at)kingstonemodelworks(dot)com
Micro-Mark
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
I have changed magnets in a couple of dozen Hobbytown drive with Pitman DC 70 motors and the smaller motor on the Hobbytown Switcher. They work great and are very easy to install. I got about 2 tenths of an amp drop in current and much better slow speed control. Iused 1/2 x 1/4x1/8 block magnets from
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=B842-N52
there are type 42 and 52 the 52s are stronger and a few cents more. Use a stack of 4 or 5 whatever fits. Just stack them together and fit between the pole pieces.
It is important not have any air gap between the magnets and pole pieces. I use old xacto blades just break the in half , use the part that mounts in the handle.
I am very happy with the results.
Ron High
Dont worry about north and south poles if the engine runs backwards just flip the stack . You can check very easy if you have other locos on the track they should run in the same direction. I am speaking in terms of DC control ,but I guess DCC might have to have whatever settings checked . I am sure there are plenty on this forum that can answer DCC question like this.
Hi Dan:
I have used K&J magnets too. They are cheap, easy to install and effective. I would try them first before buying a NWSL motor.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I use these in all my older brass imports. The magnet in these are nearly always very weak. Causing hot running, no low in torque so poor low speed performance. Unable to maintain speed around a loop of track and pitting up the wheel treads from high Amp draw. Replacing the magnet and a good servicing of the motor is all it takes to equil most benefits of a can motor. Taking up any excessive fore/aft movement of the armature will help with "cogging" and "bucking" going down grades and help eliminate noise. Usualy the motor will run quieter in forward or backwards. Observe which way the armature moves in that speed then add shim washers(available from NWSL) to keep it in that position. I use a high quality bearing lube to resoak the felts that keep the motor shaft bearings clean. If the gear box is of a enclosed design, its time to disassemble and clean out the old and probably congelled grease and replace with fresh. I have late 1950's brass that runs nearly as quiet and smooth as a Kato diesel. Most of of the process is your time, and less $$ out of your wallet. This was expected of modelers back when these models were new. So a huge YES, those magnets are well worth thier cost!! Mike
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
I put supermagnets into an old PFM brass Mogul. It's an easy thing to do, far easier than changing motors. The Mogul had been running slow and the motor was overheating. After putting in the supermagnets, it ran like a top, and the motor stayed cool. Best simple fix I know for weakly open frame motors.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
In my collection of vintage model railroader magazines, Pittman and others advertised a "remagnitizing" service for motors back then. So the loss of magnet strength was an issue even with these motors were fairly new. So this many years on, its no supprise they need a fresh magnet stack. Most brass steam have a high enough gear ratio that the benetfits of a skewed armature and a flywheel(unless really large) are lost in the gearing. A motor with its full strength is what is needed. There used to be articles on how to fine tune an open frame motor. From seating the brushes to no make noise to shimming the end play and so forth. It was a real art form back then to make one run really nice. Just as it was with carb's on the automobiles of the day, along with points and condensers. Raise hands if you remember those and know what a Dwell meter is for!