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Trying to repaint Walthers passenger cars

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: US
  • 31 posts
Trying to repaint Walthers passenger cars
Posted by DougNash on Friday, May 5, 2017 2:11 PM

Does ANYBODY out there in "TV Land" have any sure-fire patented ideas on how the devil you take apart the Walthers passenger cars to get the sides off the inner "frame" without breaking those F**%$#@ing locking tabs attached to the sides????

Busted too many of them struggling to get the sides off so I can remove the windows and paint to do a kit-bash or repaint, just too frustrating, they could not have made it any harder, but then again Walthers could have made SOMETHING OTHER THAN ALL THE F&*%$#ing SANTA FE CARS THEY KEEP RE-RUNNING TOO.

Any suggestions / help appreciated since I have already stripped all the parts off that inner frame except the sides. Thanks for the assistance

Doug

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Fruita, CO
  • 541 posts
Posted by slammin on Friday, May 5, 2017 2:49 PM

Doug, I can't offer any assistance with your problem, but with your "&*$#" rant, the moderators will probably dump your post. You need to review the MR Forum Policies at the top of this section.

  • Member since
    September 2014
  • 237 posts
Posted by JEREMY CENTANNI on Friday, May 5, 2017 10:41 PM

I dunno, the rant is fitting for taking those things apart......

If you have ever taken one apart you would understand.  It is scary and you will think you will snap it in half.

I for the life of me cannot remember pulling the interior guts out... I seem to think they just came out, but that was as far as I went checking for some lighting ideas.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: US
  • 31 posts
Posted by DougNash on Friday, May 5, 2017 11:44 PM

Thanks Jeremy.I have everything apart (interior floor/rooms, ends, floor, trucks, roof etc, but trying to get the sides off, I already snapped two of the locking tabs........

Rant???.those things break and start flying without any provocation or effor....you think they should have designed it a bit better than that, since not everyone may want the railroads they offer pre-painted............

 

Still keep trying to get some success

Doug

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: US
  • 31 posts
Posted by DougNash on Friday, May 5, 2017 11:47 PM

Slammin...........

By that comment about what you call a rant??? like Jeremy says above......YOU HAVE NEVER TAKEN ONE OF THOSE APART OR YOU WOULD UNDERSTAND JUSTIFYABLE HOMICIDE

 

Rant???.those things break and start flying without any provocation or effort....you think they should have designed it a bit better than that, since not everyone may want the railroads they offer pre-painted............

You must be British....they are hyper-sensitive to criticisms of anything in their Forums they don't like.this country it's called censorship, which the Supreme court has ruled unconstitutional.

Doug

 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Saturday, May 6, 2017 4:46 AM

Doug,

Are You talking about the Walthers Mainline cars, that You have to twist to get the top off? If You are......they are really not that hard.....once You do one. The trick is to keep Your thumbs low on the side of the car and twist in opposite directions with Your hands....rather vigorously with both hands, but not holding it so tightly that it can't move....when You hear a slight pop, look at the ends for a space that developed in the seams at the top roof line......Here is where I do it different....I stick a dull chizel blade Xacto #17 in the seam and with the chizel point facing inside, I run down the length of the car and stick Micro-brushes with the used tips cut off and stick them in the open seam down to the rings that are on the micro brush. There should be a gap on the other side, which some times You could just use Your nail to spread apart...if not use the blade again. Do Not file the clips down once off....The roof will not stay on right after that and You'll have light gaps. It will be easier to get off, the next time.

I did 10 of them without any damage to any of them.......does take patience.

The interiors are screwed in the floor...must take them out to remove floor. I installed their light kits in all of the cars with a little mods, even the Observation car, which they say won't work in that car. I also added contact springs to the electrical tabs on the end, so they always make contact. I used Kadee knuckle coupler springs with Silver bearing paste solder...no need to hold the springs while soldering with the paste. Also added 1/2'' black pin-stripe tape to the inside of the window seams on side of car.....works better than paint, for if You don't do that, You will have light bleed through at the seams.

Good Luck......Patience is the key.....Yeah right LOL.

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Fruita, CO
  • 541 posts
Posted by slammin on Saturday, May 6, 2017 7:34 AM

DOUG NASH I feel bad about your problems. My whole comment was a warning about a sticky called "MR forum rules".

One paragraph states "Keep it clean. No "bad words," even if you replace them with $¥MßØ1$. And no racy pictures or discussion of adult topics."

In the past the moderators would delete posts with the offensive content. Apparently they are no longer concerned. I don't care either way because I can swear with the best of them. But please don't shout at me because you purchased a product that you are having problems with. After all, this is a hobby. Good luck with your project. Sounds like you need it.

BTW, I'm not "British". I do think you should consider decaf.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: US
  • 31 posts
Posted by DougNash on Saturday, May 6, 2017 10:14 AM

Frank:

Thanks for the info on the M-L cars...but what I have is the original series, which are now marketed as PROTO cars........they will (?? use that loosely) completely disassemble into a pile of various parts...two of which are the cars sides that snap into a "box frame" that all the other parts either snap into (roof, ends) or get screwed on (floor, trucks).the difficulty is the sides, the tabs are so oversized they snap in bvut don't easily come out without breaking off.

So this project is not just getting the roof off, but having to get the sides off to take out the clear window inserts, strip the paint then repaint-decal the sides for another scheme

Doug

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Saturday, May 6, 2017 12:59 PM

Doug,

Never messed with one of those....sorry... But I have seen pic's of people almost destroying the cars I'm referring to, trying to get the roof off....LOL

Do You think that chizel tip idea will work on those? The #17 is about an 1'' long, 1/4'' wide and thin, but very strong......they also cost more than any other blade, I found out.

Good Luck, to You.

Frank

 

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