Paul3Brakie,I ran for 8 years on a layout built in 1953 that had all kinds of brass track, brass & sintered wheels. Cleaning track was a constant worry there, too. All new members were given a BriteBoy and told to start working. There was a lot of pushing engines around getting them to go (and using the Kadee wheel cleaner), and how we didn't like to run single engines because at least with two the other might give it a push to get it going. And on my old home layout (again with brass track), banging on the table to get the engine to move was pretty consistent. It had nothing to do with trackwork, and everything to go with dirt.
All the Columbus HO club used a Athearn dummy F7A with a bright boy attached to the fuel tank pushed by two Athearn/Hobbytown GP7s.. We cleaned the yard as needed with a bright boy.. Marion HO club still uses a Athearn dummy F7A with the same set up the Columbus club use. The Bucyrus club layout can set idle for weeks in a old block building that has gaps in the walls and along the bottom of the walls and nobody cleans track before they run a train.
I never worry about cleaning track because I clean it as needed and I haven't cleaned it since last November and still do slow speed switching every day and depending on my mood it can be with or without sound..
I must have been born under a lucky star or I choosed or tweaked my engines well because I never had to any table thumping or push a engine to get it started even on brass track.
As strange as it may sound I have had very little problems in the hobby and the majority of those problems was my fault. I could "kiss" couple with X2F couplers on my layout..My dad couldn't even do that! Even today my KD5s and 148s will kiss couple.
I haven't had a derailment on my ISL since it was built 4 years ago--that's because I will accept nothing less then 100% derailment free operation.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
selectorHi, Ken! I have noticed you've posted a few times in recent days. It's very reassuring and heart-warming to know you are still kickin' and enjoying your train-time fun.
Crandell I am on the site everyday in the Dinners. Just not breaking as much stuff as I use to!
selectorI am about halfway through a build of a new layout. It's very slow going this time because of other demands on my time and because I no longer have the zip that I used to have.
Have you been posting any photos? Guess I need to go look.
So did the track seem to stay cleaner?
Stop by the dinner and I will buy you a . Lot of great folks there.
Your Friend Ken
I hate Rust
Seems to me the track-cleaning agonies revived around the time people started getting locomotives with noisemakers installed. Nothing gets your attention like "rumble-rumble-rumble-rumble-DEADSILENCESTARTUPSEQUENCErumble-rumble-rumble-rumble-rumble-rumble-rumble."
We use alcohol in a CMX tank car followed by cotton rollers and a Masonite slider. Very good at getting up all the graphite the electrical-contact wizards put down so carefully.
Even though the article would be written without bias, I would think that the "winner" of the controlled test might be viewed as a product endorsement by all 'losers".
Its not that far removed from having an article that focuses on comparing various HO scale GP38-2s or Big Boys. One would seem to outshine the others.
I like MR the way it is now. Reviews of products are written one at a time with positives and weaknesses pointed out, but not lumped together to be viewed as a competition.
- Douglas
As others have said, "clean" track is a relative factor. Several things make a difference. The biggest is caused by DCC and amplified by sound programs shutting down. The fault is in the electric voltage level at the contact point between the wheels and the track rail. This combined with a current flow causes metals of different alloys to "fret" deposits on the other surface. Both surfaces are affected. These deposits are black in color and do not conduct electricity. Plastic wheels take the blame, but they are faultless because there is no current flow. at the track/wheel point, the voltage has not been rectified in DCC and is roughly 30 volts.
of course there are other kinds of "dirt". Air quality is the big factor here, which varies with every location.
These variations make the kind of test difficult to achieve meaningful results. The test is an endurance type. This requires some elapse time and some hopefully measurable level of surface deterioration. Difficult to adequately quantify. I have tried several times, but so far haven't succeeded.
I have tried and others swear by the use of a very light swipe of a 4B artist graphite stick on your track. It should be done on relatively "clean" track. Not perfectly clean. You may have to treat difficult sections more than once. But once the continuity has been established, people say it lasts for years. It is particularly a favorite of several guys who build layouts for the show circuit. My experience is great, but my time elapsed is limited. You do have to be a little careful. The graphite does reduce the friction coefficient, which impacts the tractive effort. Too much and it is noticeably reduced.
The benefits seem to be outstanding. Imagine not having to clean track or wheels for years, and never having a sound drop off or a loco stall when it shouldn't.
So many trains, so little time,
www.llxlocomotives.com