I have a life-like F7. The rear truck is fine, but on the front truck, the flange of the wheel is larger and scrapes against the ties on the inside of the rail. I want to replace the whees on the front. Any suggestions how?
Maine_Central_guy I have a life-like F7. The rear truck is fine, but on the front truck, the flange of the wheel is larger and scrapes against the ties on the inside of the rail. I want to replace the whees on the front. Any suggestions how?
You could try contacting Nortwest Short Line. They sell wheelsets and gears and the like. They may have something that will fit your specific situation. I am not aware of any particular item number, but they have a decent selection of this type of thing.
I'm not sure if NWSL makes wheels that would fit these, but you can use the metal wheels from a Bachmann pancake motor drive. The Bachmann and Life-Like motors are basically identical, so the wheels can be swapped out easily.
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Some alternativesL
a) Walthers may have something that can help. I needed some new wheelsets because of cracked gears on a LL Proto 2000 E6. They did not have the wheelsets but happened to have a truck (for $10) that included the wheelsets I needed. What they have is limited but you may get luckt Ask for a tech person and advise exactly what you have and need.
b) You might solve this at a train show. The last one here (in New Braunfels TX) a fellow with a hodge podge of old stuff had all kinds of Axle gears, and I would presume, related wheels. I didn't need anything but you may find some pleasant surprises at a decent show.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Maine_Central_guy I have a life-like F7. The rear truck is fine, but on the front truck, the flange of the wheel is larger and scrapes against the ties on the inside of the rail.
I have a life-like F7. The rear truck is fine, but on the front truck, the flange of the wheel is larger and scrapes against the ties on the inside of the rail.
Rich
Alton Junction
Perhaps a traction tire is missing?
Is this an older train set loco, with the pancake motor, (one truck is the motor and drive, the other truck is electrical pick-up) or a newer Proto 2000 line loco ?
Mike.
My You Tube
Since Proto did not make an F7 until WAY after Walthers took over, I think it is safe to say the OP has the LifeLike tain set F7..........Proto parts are of no use......
Sheldon
If you are really attached to the body shell, I would buy a Stewart F unit with the Kato drive and use the mechanism.
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I have an old F unit from a 40 year old train set that is powered this way. I use it to pull a consist of cars like "Old Dutch Cleanser" and "Purina" from Tyco train sets.
I run this train when I want to feel 8 again, and it sure runs better than it did back then.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I had cracked gears on my Proto 1000 F3 and GP7's what I did was swapped the broken ones with Athearn BB wheelsets. Worked fine for me, your milage may vary.
I bought it off ebay and yes, the flange is too large. i have no idea why.
It is an older train set F7. I wanted to replace the wheels so I could put the shell of a rare life like ICG shell on the chassis.
So, is the motor/truck assembly on the front? Or is the front truck the electrical pick-up. If it's the drive truck, it just might be a missing rubber traction tire, like mentioned earlier. Does it look like there is a groove in the wheel where the traction tire would go? Most old train set LL locos, the motor/truck assembly had plastic wheels, with a rubber traction tire.
Maybe you can find a cheapy on Ebay, and use for parts. If it's the traction tire, those can still be bought.