Hello all,
Still learning the ins and outs of things here. I'm thinking of making a layout based on the South Jersey & Delaware Ry. plan in the database. However, I'm unclear on the requirements. My questions are:
1. The plan gives minimum radius and turnout sizes. However, I don't understand if all the curves and turnouts require that size or if other sizes are needed.
2. Is there anything special to consider when using this plan as a DCC layout?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Ken
In a plan this small, assume that the minimum radius and turnout are used every where. It's difficult to tell for sure, but it appears that you could use a snap switch in a couple of places. The advantage would be that the curved leg is 18" rather than short straight section as found in #4 turnout. Also, brand of track turnouts can make a difference as not all manufacturers make #4 to the same specs - Atlas, for example is more of a #4 1/2.
Since it's all one level, the easiest way is to build it as a tabletop and lay the track on the top for fitting. That way you adjust/determine actual track locations prior to laying roadbed and wiring. If you're using sectional track, you'll probably need short pieces and/or trim some pieces.
This plan is based on the smaller Oakville Central in the December1978 MR.
Good luck
Paul
I'm a visual kind of guy, South Jersey and Delaware means nothing to me
18" is considered small, tight radius. It depends on your era but if you want to run big steam locos or modern gynormous freight and passenger cars, they may derail and they will look weird.
I don't see any DCC issues from this layout. Do get a book on DCC, it has different wiring standards than an HO layout with a terminal track.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Thanks Paul. I'm actually going to have to modify this plan slightly as my layout board will only be 4x6 instead of 4x8. I'm thinking I can use some curved turnouts to help with that issue. I've got a couple curved Peco turnouts and if necessary can get some more. I've got a lot of experimenting to do. I appreciate your reply.
Thanks for the reply, Henry. Everything I'm running should do ok on 18" curves. I'd love to go bigger, but just don't have the space. I did pick up a book on DCC and it is very helpful.
Thanks!
Reinforcing a couple of useful points...
1. This layout seems intended to use flex track. Make no curve smaller than 18" min R and you'll be OK. Consider that you can see several wider, more flowing curves that can be adjusted to a certain degree to allow different structures, etc This would be hard to duplicate with snaptrack that doesn't flex.
2. The crossing might present the need for an autoreverser or manul means of changing its polarity in DCC, depending on the method used to make it. If you buy a cheap one that simply insulates the crossing well enough, there may be no need for special wiring, but the long insulated portions may present contact issues for short wheelbase locos. Try it and if that doesn't work well enough, then you can always upgrade things later with a more complex, but also more reliable means of wiring the crossing.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Hello sir! 18" radius curves are the typical diameter of snap track. They will work OK so long as you're not planning in running long steam locomotives or long modern locomotives and train cars. They might work OK on longer locomotives (I have a couple SD70ACe's that tale the 18" ok) and some longer train cars so long as you don't have S curves in there.
As for DCC, any layout is easily capable of DCC. It's easiest to use what's called common rail wiring and using insulated joiners to section off sidings or branches or sections of mainline track. If you need any help with common rail wiring drop me a line I'd be happy to help and explain it!
Good luck! New layouts are exciting! I hope to see your progress pictures!
joes2fst4uAs for DCC, any layout is easily capable of DCC. It's easiest to use what's called common rail wiring
Many experienced modelers recommend against common rail wiring for DCC if starting from scratch.http://www.dccwiki.com/No_Common_Rail_Wiringhttps://sites.google.com/site/markgurries/home/technical-discussions/boosters/boosters-common-rail-wiring
DCC can be made to work on a DC layout already wired for common rail, but has the potential to create problems.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
mlehman2. The crossing might present the need for an autoreverser or manul means of changing its polarity in DCC,
Off-the-shelf 30° crossings (such as those from Atlas or Walthers) are properly insulated and should be fine with no autoreverser or special wiring. Thousands have been installed with no problem.
KEN PRYOR I'm thinking of making a layout based on the South Jersey & Delaware Ry. plan in the database.
It's a pretty typical HO 4X8, the one difference being the removable cassette to move cars on- and off the layout. (Edit: I'd probably lengthen the runaround a bit, if possible.)
The 18” minimum radius limits somewhat the type of cars you may run – and nearly everyone with room for an HO 4X8 and its aisles would also have room for a larger island (say 5X9 or 5X10) or some other layout approach that would allow for broader radii.
Good luck with your layout.
joes2fst4uAs for DCC, any layout is easily capable of DCC. It's easiest to use what's called common rail wiring and using insulated joiners to section off sidings or branches or sections of mainline track. If you need any help with common rail wiring drop me a line I'd be happy to help and explain it!
If you are building a new layout, intended for DCC, common rail wiring is actually a quite a bit more effort for exactly 0 benefit. You can already run multiple trains with the DCC system, there is no need for DC block wiring.
If you follow the DCC system manufacturer's recommended wiring practices (all of them), you will have no problems.
It is easiest to just add feeders every 2-3 ft with out any insulating rail joiners (except as previously discussed possibility with crossings). If you want to shut off power to a section, you insulate said section and install a SPST (or DPST if you wish to isolate both rails) switch. This is not the same as common rail wiring.
You need more than 1 feeder to that rail.
Thank you very much guys for the great advice. I really appreciate it. I'm still in noobie jail, so no idea when this reply will actually post.
KEN PRYOR Thank you very much guys for the great advice. I really appreciate it. I'm still in noobie jail, so no idea when this reply will actually post.
It usually takes a few hours to a day for your post to show up. Somewhere around 10 posts and you get set free.
In the room where you plan to build this layout, do you have space to walk around all 4 sides? If so how much room.