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Airbrushing Woodland Scenics Top Coat

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  • Member since
    July 2012
  • 24 posts
Airbrushing Woodland Scenics Top Coat
Posted by JakeTurner11 on Monday, January 16, 2017 11:57 AM

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience Airbrushing Woodland Scenics top coat concrete or asphalt on styrene. I'm building a street system with sidewalks out of styrene and would rather airbrush Woodland Scenics top coat instead of brushing it on the styrene. Before I move forward, I'm curious to find out if it's given anyone else problems. 

 

Thanks! 

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Wednesday, January 18, 2017 5:16 AM

Hi Jake,

I thought that someone would have responded by now. You may be a potential pioneer here. Consider experimenting and trying out a small amount on a scrap sample.

It is waterbased and, from my understanding, dries reasonably quick. Check its consistency. If it appears to be thick it could clog your airbrush. Since acrylic colors can be used to tint it, my guess is that this product could be thinned with distilled water. However, it would be a safe route to contact WS and ask if their product can be thinned for airbrushing.

You've got me curious and I may give it a go as well once I start laying my roads and sidewalks. Airbrushing (imho) is enjoyable and this sounds like a good opportunity to enhance skills.

 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
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Posted by mlehman on Wednesday, January 18, 2017 8:51 AM

Haven't tried the stuff, but the limited product info has two points that stand out. First, don't thin it. That may just be so that you buy more of it, but not sure. There is an older thread here on using it that has a little more info: http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/247504/2760130.aspx

The other is that it calls for brush-on application. This suggests, but does not confirm, that it may clog things up if shot with an air brush. Thinning may help it there, but can't eliminate the issue of what size the particulate matter in it might be. You might try it anyway, but be prepared to clean the airbrush quickly if it clogs.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    December 2001
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Posted by chutton01 on Wednesday, January 18, 2017 10:58 AM

mlehman
Haven't tried the stuff, but the limited product info has two points that stand out. First, don't thin it. That may just be so that you buy more of it, but not sure. There is an older thread here on using it that has a little more info: http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/247504/2760130.aspx

The other is that it calls for brush-on application. This suggests, but does not confirm, that it may clog things up if shot with an air brush. Thinning may help it there, but can't eliminate the issue of what size the particulate matter in it might be. You might try it anyway, but be prepared to clean the airbrush quickly if it clogs.


I was the poster of the last post in that older thread (well, as of now at least), as when I applied Top-Coat follwing directions (such as they are) using a brush (regular or foam) it showed very visible brush strokes exactly like the kind you DON'T see in prototype roads. I didn't notice any self-leveling properties what-so-ever with Top Coat, so I was a bit bummed.

In the older thread there was also mention that Top Coat didn't seem much different from acrylic craft paint, so quite likely the thinning techniques recommended for acrylic paints from a spate of articles in the press and on-line a few years back should work. One article in (ahem)RMC mentioned thinning craft paint with a liquitex medium, the results looked rather good.

Of course, if it is really glorified craft paint, those craft store acrylics for .99c per bottle in several shades of grey (don't say it, that joke is too 2014) look rather tempting...

Maybe get one of those under 16.00 Harbor Freight airbrush specials (vs. a 70.00 Paasche), you're really just using it as a miniature power-sprayer so fine control isn't that big a deal, just as long as it mists out paint without blopping.

  • Member since
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Posted by mlehman on Wednesday, January 18, 2017 11:17 AM

Yeah, that was very useful info that applied to this, so thanks.

What determines the quality of most paints, etc is the fineness and uniformity of the pigments. Doesn't much matter with a brush, but you need both for good results with an airbrush. The stuff very well may work in an airbrush, only trying it will tell, but just be prepared to clean things out if it doesn't. Another thing that might work is to screen the stuff before shooting it in order to find out if there is any chunky stuff that might be a problem.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • 24 posts
Posted by JakeTurner11 on Saturday, February 4, 2017 6:27 PM

Thanks for all of your insight. In the end after looking at the paint and realizing that it was kindof gritty, I chose not to air brush it. I rolled it on the top of MDF board, which didnt give me the paint brush strokes, though it was a little thick. And then for the styrene, I ended up airbrushing TruColor paint. Its not Floquil but it did the job. Thanks again! 

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