N scale GP20

[Anonymous]

HI,
I have a new Life-Like N scale GP20 locomotive that has maybe 3 hours on it. I love how it runs, but when it's cold and running at anything but low speed it has a terrible squeal that won't go away until it gets warmed up. Interestingly, it doesn't squeal when run backward...
Is this a problem, or just a quirk in an otherwise great engine? I have two GP38's from Life-Like that also squeal when cold, but they are on a totally different level of quality than the GP20 is, so that sort of thing is almost expected from them. Also, they stop squealing within seconds of cold starting where the nice split-frame GP20 can take several trips around my layout to quiet down.
I've found with all 3 locos that starting nice and slow and letting them come up to operating speed and temperature gradually eliminates this squeal, but I'm concerned that it is a sign of trouble.
Can anyone help me with this. Is it a lubrication problem? Where can I learn where and how to oil diesels to prevent it?
Also, I'm sure someone will mention this: I do run it uncoupled when starting cold so it isn't pulling a load...
Thanks

[Anonymous]

Raymond, I have a Life Like GP20 and a GP18 also. I think that squeal might be a LifeLike thing! Both engines run great, very very very slow with no problems. They both make a kind of "coffee grinder" sound as they pick up moderate speed & my GP20 also squeals sometimes too. They are not the strongest engines, so I run a short train with them. I've heard a few other people have same thing happen, so it should be ok. I think they're just geared for running at slow speeds. If I were you, I wouldn't lubricate your engine though, not unless it is completely bone dry. Then only a tiny small drop will do. I'd also check for hair in the wheels, (I get a lot by running near the carpet). A lot of people only lubricate 1-2 times a year tops. If you want some great info, I bought a book from Kalmbach called Maintaining & Repairing your Scale Model Trains. It's a real good book to have around. Have fun. Pete

[Anonymous]

I have some KATO's that do that when warmed up but not my Life-Likes(SW12000's). Anybody heard if Life-Like is going to make any modern locomotives in N scale?

[joes2fst4u]

I have a new kato c44-9w that's doing the same thing, seems like it started squealing not long after I libricated it. It's brand new but bone dry. Do I need to maybe dry up some of the lube or just keep running it? Seems to only squeal at low speeds and it stops at higher or when you hold the loco in one place. 

[BRAKIE]

davidmbedard

12 years for a reply. My money is on the OP not responding........

 

I agree and will add I doubt if he's even a member if one looks at the monitiker..Also 12 years ago some of LL older GP18/20s had a spring drive shaft.

 

[richhotrain]

Joe,

Thanks for your reply.

Now, after all of these years, I can finally fix that squealing problem.

Anonymous

 

P.S.   David, you owe me.

[zstripe]

richhotrain

Joe,

Thanks for your reply.

Now, after all of these years, I can finally fix that squealing problem.

Anonymous

 

P.S.   David, you owe me.

 

LOL,LOL.

Frank

[joes2fst4u]

Lol see this is what happens when I read threads from my phone, I didn't even notice this was a post from 12 years ago... man that brings back memories lol.  Oh well, found out the bearing blocks are bad on my loco, a lot of similar kato locomotives have that problem too, I just am debating about if I feel like tearing it apart to try to lube it or not...

[trwroute]

joes2fst4u

found out the bearing blocks are bad on my loco, a lot of similar kato locomotives have that problem too,

 

 

Never seen a bearing block go bad before.  Don't recall if I've ever lubed one either.  I have had to lube the motor shaft bushings.  That is where the squeal normally comes from.

[richhotrain]

joes2fst4u

Lol see this is what happens when I read threads from my phone, I didn't even notice this was a post from 12 years ago... man that brings back memories lol.  Oh well, found out the bearing blocks are bad on my loco, a lot of similar kato locomotives have that problem too, I just am debating about if I feel like tearing it apart to try to lube it or not...

 

Joe, glad you took our replies in the right spirit.  

Rich

[richhotrain]

zstripe

 

 

richhotrain

Joe,

Thanks for your reply.

Now, after all of these years, I can finally fix that squealing problem.

Anonymous

 

P.S.   David, you owe me.

 

 

 

 

LOL,LOL.

Frank

 

Thanks, Frank, I couldn't resist. Glad that Joe took it well.  

Rich

[joes2fst4u]

I bet you're right, the more I looked at it the more I was like "this isn't right".  It sounds like that's the area the squeal is coming from.  Any good ways to lube that up?  I still don't feel like taking apart the locomotive but if I have to...

 

Lol and yes we all have fun on here guys!

[trwroute]

Not a whole lot of room between the flywheels and the motor, but I have had success using a piece of thin wire, putting a small bit of oil on it and snaking it between the frame halves.  Sometimes you can do this without taking the mechanism apart.  A Kato loco is so easy to get apart, so if you need to do that, it shouldn't be that much of a hassle.

[joes2fst4u]

That's good to know!  I will give that a shot!  Thanks!

[zstripe]

Joe,

If You look at the Labelle #104 oil/which is synthetic, not safe for plastics and #107 oil, safe for plastic's, they have a 11/2'' long 1/16 brass tube on the container, that You may be able to reach the motor shafts with. You may even be able to put something over that to reach. Never tried...always took them apart.

Take Care! 

Frank

[trwroute]

zstripe

they have a 11/2'' long 1/16 brass tube on the container, that You may be able to reach the motor shafts with

I have found that the tube that you are referring to is too large in diameter to fit between the flywheel and motor.  That is why I use a small piece of wire.

[zstripe]

trwroute

 

 

zstripe

they have a 11/2'' long 1/16 brass tube on the container, that You may be able to reach the motor shafts with

 

 

 

I have found that the tube that you are referring to is too large in diameter to fit between the flywheel and motor.  That is why I use a small piece of wire.

 

Chuck,

I just went and checked. The tube that fits on the container is actually smaller than 1/16....It almost fits inside of a 1/16 brass tube. It's more like in thousands. A piece of Music wire .020 will fit inside of the tube. I have a lot of that material on hand...I build a lot of 1/87 scale white metal and Pewter Trucks of the 50's- 60's era, that are sometimes shown on the ATHS show's, which I am a member of. ( American Truck Historical Society)

Take Care! 

Frank

[trwroute]

That's interesting, Frank.  I haven't measured the Labelle oil container tube, but the one that I have is too big to fit where it needs to go.  Close, but not quite small enough.  Maybe they have more than one size?  Who knows...