Have an Atlas RS-3, Classic Series, and the front (long hood) coupler is high. Any suggestions on how to get it down a bit. It appears to be sitting right on the bottom of the coupler pocket. I think an offset would be too much.
Thank you,
Richard
How far is it off by? A photo would help.
If its just a tad to high no worries unless your track has a lot of dips and sudden inclines.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I have an Atlas RS3 lettered for Cotton Belt (SSW) Should I use the factory intalled couplers? Or swap them out and replace them?
ATSFGuy I have an Atlas RS3 lettered for Cotton Belt (SSW) Should I use the factory intalled couplers? Or swap them out and replace them?
Personally I din't like the shape and size of the couplers on my Atlas RS-3. Way too big and difficult to couple with other couplers in some circumstances. I replaced them with Kadees.
I like Atlas locomotives. Certainly the best, on my roster. I always wondered why they are factory equipped with such bab couplers.
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's
Thanks Larry,
I will try to get a good photo and have my IT savy grandson-in-law help me get it on photobucket (he got me an account, but I've never used it), then here. It has uncoupled a couple of times, that's why I rechecked it. The cars that came free were right on, though I have found a couple of others that needed a little shimming.
Not sure when he's off again, works at a ski area, so weekends are busy.
Stay tuned,
cowmanHave an Atlas RS-3, Classic Series, and the front (long hood) coupler is high.
Hi, Richard
I was curious since I have a pair of these purchased within the past four months. The first thing I did was swap the rubber couplers for Kadees. Many of the cars I have use the "scale" sized head but for locomotives I use the original size for a little better reliability.
My gauge shows all four couplers are spot-on within a few thousandths.
The box and sill arrangement doesn't leave much room for shims or adjustment. Note how the cover is flush with the side bosses. Are yours this way?
Not much play in the pilot opening, either:
Is it possible that your shell is not fully engaged with the frame? Seems odd that only one coupler would be off. Could the truck not be fully engaged in the bolster pin? Maybe take a closer look at those two possibilities...
Good Luck, Ed
Hi Richard:
I have two Altas RS-3s. I bought them used. Both came with Kadees installed. The couplers are almost perfectly aligned. I say 'almost' because one of them is a tad high, maybe by .005". That's is perhaps getting a bit fussy on my part.
I suggest installing Kadees if you haven't already. At least eliminate the possibility that the couplers are duds.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Richard,I second the motion to check to see if the frame is propery seated and will go the next step..Check for warpage. If the frame is slightly warp just gently bend it to straighten. I had a Atlas N Scale GP9 that had that problem.
Hi Richard
The older RS3's had body mounted couplers, the newer RS3's have frame mounted couplers. Pulling a heavy train will cause the body mount to bend up enough to uncouple. You can correct this by making brass extension to the frame or buy a new frame from Atlas. If yours is already a frame mount the previous posts are good.
Good luck!
Jim
rather than shimming Kadee makes overset and underset couplers which have the coupler head cast higher or lower than the shaft. The overset will will result on a lower coupler head. Maybe one of these would work. For instance, check this chart:
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Couplers.htm
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
G Paine rather than shimming Kadee makes overset and underset couplers which have the coupler head cast higher or lower than the shaft. The overset will will result on a lower coupler head. Maybe one of these would work. For instance, check this chart: http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Couplers.htm
Those couplers isn't always the solution especially when a few minutes of tlc will work 100% in correcting a minor problem and the end results the coupler will look more like a prototype coupler instead of a toy coupler.
In the 50 years I been using KD couplers I never found the need to use a under or overshank coupler.
Thank you all for your responses. Didn't plan on taking so long to answer, but things have been rather unsettled lately, from a broken water pipe (no threat to trains), rainy weather keeping us off line (ancient phone lines coming up the hill) and a new great grandson, plus all the usual life interruptions.
Though I couldn't see any gap between shell and frame, I gave it a gentle squeeze anyhow and it seemed to improve the situation, at least as close as Dave observed.
One thing I do not understand. I have a test track with a coupler height gauge at each end. On one end the height is perfect, turn the loco around and it is just a touch high with the other gauge. When I do the same with another Atlas RS-3, they are right on at each end, even when reversed. Don't think the difference will be a problem, time will tell, but it's a bit of a curiosity.
Thanks again for the ideas,
It sounds like something might be a bit loose. Is it always the same gauge? It could be that when you turn the locomotive around, something in the trucks might get hung up slighty, or the shell moves a bit. It might help to add a small washer in the coupler box to snug everything up so there is no vertical play.