I have some fallen flag SCL / Family Lines locomotives. Eventually they were absorbed by CSX. I want to renumber them with CSX numbers. Does anyone make a renumbered decal or do I just renumber with a standard yellow or blue CSX decal?
Microscale offers "patch-out kits" for CSX, and others, in HO scale.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
willy6 I have some fallen flag SCL / Family Lines locomotives. Eventually they were absorbed by CSX. I want to renumber them with CSX numbers. Does anyone make a renumbered decal or do I just renumber with a standard yellow or blue CSX decal?
I used a combination of three sets of Microscale decals for a patched Seaboard System Proto 2K SD45; 87-398 Seaboard System Diesels for the cab numbers, 87-1181 CSX Transportation Diesel for the CSXT initials above the cab numbers and 87-575 CSX Diesel locomotives for the number board numbers. Earl...
How are decals applied to locomotives?
ATSFGuy How are decals applied to locomotives?
Carefully ....
Old Thumper ATSFGuy How are decals applied to locomotives? Carefully ....
No.... Very carefully...
Now that that is out of the way...
Once your locomotive (or whatever you are decalling) has a high-gloss coat applied, you are ready.
You need distilled water, and some decal solution, I use both Micro-set and Micro-sol, and a new, sharp xacto knife. Decal tweezers help, but are not 100% required. You also need a small dish, and eye dropper, and a cosmetic sponge applicator and/or a paper towel.
Trim the decal as close to the lettering as you can, with the new, sharp knife, and set it into a dish of distilled water. The decal will separate from the backing paper in the distilled water.
Be very careful when handling the decal! It will tear extremely easy without the backing paper! Pick it up with either the smooth decal tweezers, a toothpick, or the tip of the knife blade. Only remove from the distilled water once you are set to apply to the model.
On the model, while the decal is soaking, place a small amount of Micro set onto the model, where you are putting the new decal, and float the decal, minus the backing paper, into place.
Next, use a cosmetic sponge tip (or a paper towel tip) to soak up any excess liquid. (A cosmetic sponge applicator works well, as you can not only use the tip to wick out excess liquid, but the flat side, to compress air out from under the decal.)
Let decal dry thoroughly.
Now, using said sharp knife again, poke a tiny hole into any air bubble, and reapply Micro set, or, if any louvers or door seams, etc... Are present, use micro-sol. (Micro-sol is stronger, and will help the decal "settle down" into details, to looking like paint.)
CAUTION - Once you place Micro-sol onto the decal, DO NOT TOUCH THE DECAL! It will get ruined if you do! Let it dry completely first!
Once all air bubbles are removed, and the decal is snug and dry, seal the decals with either gloss, semi-gloss, or flat clear coat. (I use either semi-gloss or dead flat clear, depending on the age depicted by the model. Street vehicles get either gloss or semi-gloss, again based on depicted age.)
Once the clear sealant coat(s) are dry, you, either - A - weather model to your liking, or, B - are complete.
Looking at the Walthers Decals that come with the passenger cars, I realized they were not stickers.
As you said, it takes some work to expand your locomotive/car fleet by adding/removing numbers and decals.
I tip my hat off to those who are able to take a simple toy and kitbash it into something marvelous.