Please suggest replacement couplers for Athearn Metrolink Bombardier coaches. The stock couplers come uncoupled too often when I reverse directions. I would normally use Kadee #5 but I want to know if there is something better.
Thanks
Go with Kadee's. Assuming your railroad is into knuckle couplers. Kadee was the first, and the Kadee clones cost as much as real Kadee's. Why buy clones when you can get the real thing for the same money? You do want to check the Kadee what-fits-what list on the Kadee website. Although you can warp a #5 Kadee into anything, you can save a lot of hacking, filing, and cussing, if you purchase the recommended Kadee coupler from the list.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Kadee recommends a plain old #5, or a #148 if you don't want to hassle with the spring.
http://www.kadee.com/conv/hocc_athearn_rtr.htm
There are some other options too. You can find out what the alternate couplers are here:
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Couplers.htm
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
When I replaced the drawbar between my Broadway Limited Baldwin centipedes, somewhere I came across a suggestion to use Kadee SF or SE couplers (I don't exactly remember which) but they act like a "Tightlock" passenger coupler and do not allow vertical movement.
I "think" they were the #118 SF type coupler. If you have room for them these might be a good choice. Kadee says either the top or bottom "shelf" can be filed off if they interfere.
If I recall correctly, the #119 is geared to represent the shelf type coupler used on modern tank cars and not the ones you would want. I can't seem to find out exactly what the difference is between them but they might be a good choice if false uncoupling is your problem. [edit] Yes, the #118 is like the type F Tightlock coupler for passenger cars, it has the "lug and pocket" on either side of the knuckle.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page118.htm
My Kato bi-level cars have nice "Tightlock" couplers but I'm not sure if they would fit anything other than Kato cars. They are a pain to separate, too!
Good Luck, Ed
The Kadee coupler chart says #148 or #5 couplers will work with the bombardier cars. Try those and see what happens.
If you want, you can also swap out the plastic couplers on the locomotive for metal ones, that way the train won't uncouple when going around curves.
ATSFGuyIf you want, you can also swap out the plastic couplers on the locomotive for metal ones, that way the train won't uncouple when going around curves.
That is mandatory for me. Locomotives are too rough on couplers for anything but Kadee's.
Now I am thinking about maybe trying Kadee 158 scale couplers. Has anyone tried these? Would you recommend?
Hi, Lone Wolf
Your original problem was unwanted uncoupling. I suggested the #118 Tightlocks. I have used these where a more secure connection was desired. I had some A-B Life-Like E8s that the draft gear would not align well (as pull between the engines changed they would "ride up") and the #118s fixed that.
The #158s are about a third smaller than the standard head. You have to have very reliable draft gear and smooth track with very little transition on approach to grades.
If you had uncoupling problems with the stock couplers I don't see where Scale Size heads will help.
Maybe others have a different opinion.