Hello
I hope the tiltle clarifies why I'm starting this post. I have a large inventory of engines with many duplicates and would like to thin it out. Many brands, diesel & steam.
Well, I would like to get some input on what model railroaders look for in the description, and if that holds true for the engine, I would consider the suggestion.
Thanks
Joe C
Joe,I want to see what I'm buying so,sharp clear photos of both sides,front and rear view plus a three quarter view gets my attention and the seller may get my money. I look for reasonable shipping and if its to high then that kills the sale.Honesty in the description if I see (let's say) a broken or missing grab iron and its not mention that might be a turn off.
"Rare!","Hard to find" means as much to me as a seller with a way to dark photo.
The price should be reasonable.
A example if seller A has (say) a used Atlas/Roco SCL Alco S4 for $75.00 and Seller B has the newer updated SCL S4 for $89.00 there's no contest I'll buy the newer S4. OTOH if that older S4 was around $50.00 I would buy it since they are smooth runners and meets my minimum detail standards..
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Joe:
First, you want to have clear, sharp photos showing the item--I always like to see both sides and ends to check if any details are broken or missing--things like stirrup steps, brakewheels, grabs, and that short of thing. If the photos are good enough, you don't really need to state much in the description, although you should mention any deficiencies with running quality or damage to the engine. If you've detailed it in any manner, then do talk about that (and make sure the pictures show same). Mainly, do tell the brand of model, what it is, and if there have been multiple runs, which it comes from (which may make a difference to whoever is looking).
If you do that, have a reasonable starting bid, and don't charge excessive shipping, you should be successful selling your overstock.
Greg
dominic c Hello I hope the tiltle clarifies why I'm starting this post. I have a large inventory of engines with many duplicates and would like to thin it out. Many brands, diesel & steam. Well, I would like to get some input on what model railroaders look for in the description, and if that holds true for the engine, I would consider the suggestion. Thanks Joe C
What Brakie said plus a detailed statement as to what is missing, bent, or broken. If nothing is wrong, an explicit statement saying so goes a long way. No detailed statement of condition kills it for me unless the price is too good to pass up.
Sharp photos taken with a a decent camera help a lot. Dark, vague, or out-of-focus shots make me wonder about the seller (and the deal).
From someone who has bought literally hundreds of MRR items off of eBay.
Joe,
Those are the ones most important to me. Hope that helps...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I only buy stuff that is clearly "like new" or "test run only", NOS, etc.
Sheldon
One good clear plicture is fine for me if the item is brand new and never out of the box. Items handled or used should have multiple pictures so you can see both sides and ends.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Good, clear photos, and then details of who made it, any missing/broken/damaged parts, with a corresponding photo, and a description of actual running quality. If any modifications have been made, a photo and detailed note in the description helps. I would even say include a underbody shot, to show wheelsets and manufacturer stamp if applicable, and, if a custom DCC or lighting install, a "under the hood" photo showing this. A detailed description, and too many photos, is better than zero description, and a single, fuzzy photo.
Skip all the the "gimmick" stuff, "rare, hard to find, out of production," and the like. When these are included, I assume the price will be too high, at least higher than it is really worth, and I will sometimes simply skip over that item, but do include a note as to whether the original packaging and instruction sheet(s) are included. (Some people this makes a difference, some don't care.)
I am more interested in manufacturer, then roadname, then photos, then description of the unit.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Along with the already suggested pictures, add a picture of the bottom of the loco, a nice clear close-up.
I've had some disputes with sellers, as to what they think they have, vs what they actually have. A clear bottom picture usually clears this up.
Good luck! I buy a lot off Ebay.
Mike.
My You Tube
In title list what it is like NW2, next brand, next DC or whatever, if it is DCC ready, make sure it is as on some early DCC ready stuff that only ment the moter was isolated, not plug-n-play. Last road name. Now in the body list if factory paint and other details like individual grabs, also very important is the country of origin, some people just won't buy items from certain countrys and others are because of companys like Atlas that have gotten their stuff from a lot of countries and some is not as good out of the box as others, with Atlas I avoid Austria, just better stuff out there.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL I only buy stuff that is clearly "like new" or "test run only", NOS, etc. Sheldon
Same here. I've read too many people who bought used stuff and it turned out to be a lot worse then it was though, and they had issues etc. I prefer to stick with stuff that is new for the most part.
What everyone has already said. I really try to find items with a picture of the bottom and wheels. The wheels can tell how much it has been used...has the nickle been worn through to the base metal? A lot of dirt and dust around the wheels,trucks and bottom says it was not taken care of very well.
Good luck with your sale.
In addition to the above, I would list any aftermarket add-ons that may be present:
1) Additional paint/decal/weathering work
2) Couplers and wheels
3) Any mechanical improvements that have been done.
Modeling whatever I can make out of that stash of kits that takes up half my apartment's spare bedroom.
I describe the item as having no detail parts missing or broken. Like new. Runs excellent. If there is anything missing or broken, or there is a noise in the drivetrain, I disclose it. If there are scuffs in the paint, I disclose that too.
Some buyers are picky. And frankly, some buyers experience buyers remorse and look for any flaw that is not described as a reason for a refund. If a flaw doesn't show up in the pics, some will complain.
- Douglas
Most important is the scale , HO, N, O, whatever. Granted I can often tell the scale by looking at the pictures, it's still nice to have a flat out statement of the scale. It is reassuring. And the road name it's painted for. Good sharp closeup pictures are essential. If you have the box, give us a picture of it. It's hard for me to get excited enough about an E-bay offering to bid on it, if I can't see what it looks like. Maker is important, lotta difference between Tyco and Atlas. Year of manufacture is nice to know, even if it is only to a decade.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Condition, condition, condition.
If the photos are bad ie very unclear or don't show much, I don't bid or buy.
If the item obviously has broken stuff (that I don't readily have parts for), I don't bid or buy.
If the item appears to be somewhat the worse for wear, appears to have been mistreated or mishandled, or has visibly poor custom paint, I don't bid or buy. (Currently my painters are deceased or retired).
I'm only looking for mint/like new trains and will pass on others.
Conversely, if I see an item with a truly professional paint job (in brass) and/or painted by a well known pro, and I have the cash, I will buy it even if it's not my roadname because the exceptional quality paint jobs will always enhance the value and future sales appeal of the model.
John
riogrande5761 ATLANTIC CENTRAL I only buy stuff that is clearly "like new" or "test run only", NOS, etc. Sheldon Same here. I've read too many people who bought used stuff and it turned out to be a lot worse then it was though, and they had issues etc. I prefer to stick with stuff that is new for the most part.
Guys,A word about used from a fella that's been buying use for decades.
You do realize a modeler may buy a engine because of the associated eye candy photos and realizes he didn't really want it or something new comes along he wants more then he sells a engine that seen very little or no run time at a bargain basement price and then there's the just one step above "junk-parts only" and those are easily spotted even in photos..Unless one needs the parts they should be passed by because there are better available.
I'm not really trusting that NOS simply because it could misleading. A BB SW7 with its parts bag missing is not NOS and I've seen examples of obviously used engines being pawned off as NOS. I have a hard time believing a Life Like Gold box P2K locomotive is NOS since the goldies dates back to the 90s.
Lots of folks have mentioned how important clear pictures are, but nobody has talked about the photo background. I have seen lots of pictures where the item was placed on a paisley table cloth for example, or a strongly patterened piece of upholstry. Doing that sort of thing pretty much renders the pictures useless AFAIC. Get a sheet of light blue Bristol Board.
Use decent lighting. Get a couple of cheap desk lights so you can illuminate from the sides as well as the front.
Give lots of information. The buyer will have a better feeling about an item if they know more about it and aren't guessing or hoping.
If you want to sell to people in Canada, ship via USPS First Class. Otherwise the cost is prohibitive. If you say you don't care about potential Canadian customers, you just eliminated 15% of your market.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
What about the seller offering returns? When I see "no returns accepted", that's sort of a deal breaker. Even if ebay stands behind it, I usually pass.
Those are the guys I got a Shay Wood Miter from, my cost $0 (after I sold other tools included) and a value of over $200.
I have used EBAY since 1996. I look for: Clear, in focus photos, sides, top, ends, and bottom. As suggested use a blue back ground with proper lighting.
Describe, does it run/ almost run/ won't run. Clear in focus photos will be self explanitory as to visual condition of engine.
If the terms " special, limited edition, rare, almost rare, un-known, or only one left, I will not read any further'
You know what you want for the item--list it !, don't use "Reserve" listing. When I l see this used it tells me the seller is "fishing"-I don't have time for twenty questions.
Feedback ratings are all important. If you have sold 11 items, and your rating is 92%, I will not look. If, however, your rating is 92% and you have sold 11,421 items I will read the negative feedback to see if there is a commoninality with them. Generally I have found the fault is with the buyer.
What scale are you selling ?--N, HO, O, list this.
Personally, I am not bothered by no-returns. Before I bid on an item I have a back-up use for the item if it turns out that it is not suitable for it's original intent. This goes back to the old saw, " I have never made a Right decision, I have made a lot of decisions, and made them Right".
J.White
Detailed feedback ratings as well as actual feedback from buyers.
This is how I grade sellers:
Blue and Purple star=bravo!
Green star=excellent
Yellow star=good
Red star=poor
In addtion to what has already been mentioned (condition of item, manufacterer, road name, clear photographs). I look at a sellers rating, number of sales and age of account. A reputable seller with a 99% customer satisfaction or better I will consider a purchase. I speak with friends who shop on ebay for train collections and ask about them having good experiences with particular sellers. I prefer to buy from ebay sellers who have small time brick and mortar shops that are too far for me to actually visit (a kind of pay it forward to my fellow modelers).
I ignore the dumb comments (UPS ran over my shipment with a forklift etc) because those the seller has no control over. Legitiment negative comments (ie item was not what was listed etc) will cause me to pass up the seller without giving the item a second glance.