Looking for some information on proto2000 locomotives, are there any problems I should be aware of. I need some smooth and quiet runners. DC only would be fine.
David,I will share my experiences with my P2K GP38-2s..All three does not MU well together thanks to Life Like playing the gear ratio of the month game on the other hand my 2 P2K GP9 and GP18 MUs well together.
I've toyed with the idea of re-gearing my GP38-2s using Athearn gears and that would give all three engines a 14-1 ratio but,since I quit the club due to health reasons I decided not to since my ISL is a one horse operation..
Besides I love the 38-2s slow speed switching anyway..
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
David,
One prominant issue that arose with some of the earlier Proto 2000 locomotives (mainly pre-2000s) was cracked gears. That said, I have several Proto 2000 locomotives: A steamer and a eleven diesels. Except for an SW8 switcher, they have all been terrific locomotives and smooth runners, with great low-speed action. I would highly recommend them to anyone.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
The last couple years I acquired a number of LifeLike diesel P2K and P1K locos as well as a few Kato and Atlas. I was pleased to get each one as it often gave me the opportunity to add UP locos to my roster that are not current retail offerings. I prefer to buy DC and convert to DCC myself as that gives me the chance to put my preferred decoder and optimize the speaker arrangement.
The P2Ks include GP30, SD7, SD50, SD60, E6 and PA/PB. The P1K include Erie Built and another I can't recall. I did have the cracked axle gear problem with a couple (the E6 and GP30 I recall, maybe an F3B). If the gearing is right for the Athearn gears commonly available, it's an easy fix. If not (like my GP9) it can be more difficult to find the right toothed gear. They all run quite acceptably and I enjoy them. If the same loco were available in Kato, I'd choose that first from a running standpoint.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Is there a way to know what the earlier ones with the cracked gears were?
thanks for your help.
David:
I wouldn't worry too much about the cracked gears. They are very easy to replace and Athearn sells proper replacements. The replacements are cheap too. You will want to have an NMRA gauge available.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HO-Drive-Axle-Gear-20pcs-it-can-applied-to-ATHEARN-LIFELIKE-PROTO-2000-Austrains-/112077463028?hash=item1a18565df4:g:FlcAAOSwHxVW7Wvl
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NMRA-HO-Scale-Standards-Gauge-Mark-IVb-/121887319040?hash=item1c610ce400:g:xskAAOSwa-dWtd-0
You will know if you have a cracked gear. You will be able to hear the clicking clearly.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I only have one powered Proto 2000 unit, an E6A, with Tsunami sound installed. (Also have two unpowered B units.) It was given to me by a friend (along with the two matching B units) who could not get it to run on DC power. (He is not into DCC.) I tried a decoder reset, but it still for some reason, refused to run on DC power, so he told me to just keep them. (So, I have a 3-unit ABB lash-up of PRR E-units.) The powered unit runs very well on my DCC layout. Only complaint would be the axle caps will randomly pop off and vanish by flying into "Never-Land", where they are never to be seen again!
No issues on mine (well, my friends, I just have it on a prototypical long-term lease...) with the infamous cracked gear issues.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Best bang for the buck out there if you find deals on them.
4 axle units need to be checked for split gears.
Factory lube turns to the consistency of clay, so a full clean out and relube is recommended while doing the split gear check.
Light boards cause some issues, the earlier ones moreso than the later ones, so hard wiring a decoder or using a drop in replacement is recommended. Also of note they use 1.5 and also 3v bulbs, so upgrading to LED is recommended it bulb swap is needed. Some drop in decoders make this a mute point.
Someone already mentioned the E-unit trucks with bearing caps can be annoying and will come off at some point.
Little work and some elbow grease with a little time thrown in will net you a good looking, smooth running unit.
I'm averaging about $50 an engine including the decoder, LEDs, etc, when getting them set up for my use.
DAVID FORTNEY Looking for some information on proto2000 locomotives, are there any problems I should be aware of. I need some smooth and quiet runners. DC only would be fine.
David, older Proto2000 diesels are my first choice in diesels. Yes, the older four axle units often have cracked gears, as explained, easily fixed. And I have never had a repaired unit fail again, with Athearn gears or replacement gears that came from Proto.
I have about 50 of them, dollar cost average purchase price - about $60 each.
All DC of course..........
They all run great and look great.
Sheldon
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain DAVID FORTNEY Looking for some information on proto2000 locomotives, are there any problems I should be aware of. I need some smooth and quiet runners. DC only would be fine. Proto 2000 by Life Like or Proto 2000 by Walthers? Rich
Proto 2000 by Life Like or Proto 2000 by Walthers?
And the degree of difference depends on how old or new the Walthers version is.
When Walthers first bought Proto from LifeLike, there were few if any changes at first. It took years for Walthers to decide to make some changes in gearing, electronics, adding sound, etc.
I have one set of Walthers Proto F7's, in C&O. They are very nice, but when it comes to F units, I prefer my Intermountain and Genesis. One big reason for me, as a freelance modeler, has to do with the details on the undecorated versions. Walthers decided to put the modernized 60's shell with a built in snow plow on the undecorated F units - I model them "as built", my era is 1954.
Intermountain undecorated shell kits and the Highliner shell kits for the Genesis F's can be easily built/detailed to any era of F unit "evolution".
Among my LifeLike built Proto fleet I have multiples of the following:
EMD GP7, SD9, BL2, E8, SW900, ALCO FA1/FB1, FA2/FB2, PA1/PB1, S1
And I'm always on the lookout for more at the right prices.
They have way better detail than most BLI diesels, run great, cost less, what's not to like.....
I have an ABBA set of the Alco FA/FB freight cab units, and a pair of E8 EMD cab units. They all look good and run good.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com