I'm surprised that I'd not seen this thread sooner.
You've already received some good suggestions, but I'll throw in my two cents worth anyways.
When I first bought an airbrush, a Paasche dual action, I followed the instructions in the accompanying literature, which suggested that a good exercise to learn control of the paint was to try to create the smallest dots of paint possible. I practiced this on some flattened cardboard boxes from the supermarket. Once I learned how to make very small dots, the next suggestion was to place them in a pattern (you could draw it out in-pencil if necessary)...I opted for a simple grid.
This exercise was to teach control of the airbrush, and the object of it was to create lines as thin and straight as possible, as if they had been done with a pencil and straightedge.
I made several tries before getting one with which I was satisfied, and while I proudly kept it for years, it's long gone. The lines did look like they'd been done with a ruling pen and straightedge, and the dots were so small that they were almost covered by the thin lines. If I had to try repeating that today, I'd definitely be embarrassed.
The only rattle can I've ever used that impressed me at all was Tamiya's grey primer - it offers great coverage and airbrush-like application.While I originally used Floquil's grey primer (now long gone) my current choice is lacquer-based, airbrush-ready Alclad II - great coverage and quick drying, too.
I can't recommend any particular brand of paint, as the ones I liked most have been discontinued.
For clear finishes, my preference is Testor's Dullcote and Glosscote. Both are lacquer-based, and for airbrushing, lacquer thinner works well for thinning both - I usually use it 50/50, or perhaps just a little less thinner.You can also mix Dullcote and Glosscote, in varying proportions, to create an infinite number of semi-gloss finishes.
For applying decals (and getting good results) I'll simply paste-in my procedure here...
First, I would suggest that you wash the car (or locomotive, structure, etc.), using warm water and dish detergent, then rinse it thoroughly with water and let it air-dry.Once it’s dry, airbrush it in an appropriate colour(s), then set it aside to let the paint dry/cure/harden, depending on the type of paint you use.Once that is done, airbrush the entire areas which will be decalled with Glosscote (or your preferred clear gloss) then let it fully dry until there’s no odour of solvent present on the car. Don’t apply the gloss only where the decals will be applied - for rolling stock and locomotives, those areas are usually the sides and ends - cover them completely with the gloss, even if the amount of decal work will be very minimal. Allow the clear coat to fully cure/harden - there should be no noticeable odour to it, (this minimises the chance of the setting solutions reacting with the clear coat).Next, use a sharp blade to cut the needed decals from the sheet, keeping as far away from the lettering as possible. Once you have all of the required lettering free of the main sheet, use a sharp blade (re-sharpen or replace as necessary) and working on a hard surface (I use a sheet of glass on my work desk for this), to trim away as much of the blank paper from as close as you can maneuver the blade to the lettering, using a straight down chopping motion, rather than slicing it away. If necessary, do this work under magnification (eyeglasses, Optivisor, or loupe).The reason for the two-part cutting is that slicing the image, even with a sharp blade, raises the edges along the cut line, and when you apply that decal to the model, the setting solution is often insufficient to make those edges settle completely flat onto the surface. Using a chopping motion has a couple of advantages, first that it allows you to position the tip of the blade as close as possible to the lettering, and second, that when you bring the blade down to make the cut, the chopping movement pushes the edge of the decal downward, which will allow better and easier setting of the lettering when it is time to apply that solution. Another tip to decrease the chances that your lettering job will look obvious as decals, is to trim the excess clear film from rounded letters or numerals such as B, C, O, P, 2, 3, 8, 0, etc. which are at the beginning or end of a block of lettering. F’rinstance, on a CANADIAN NATIONAL car, I would use a simple diagonal chop to remove the clear film from the top and bottom left side of the “C”, and the clear film from the “L” at the end of NATIONAL - this latter chop could be a simple diagonal from the top to the right edge of the foot, but an L-shaped cut would give even better results.The same trimming can be applied to dimensional data, too, even if you apply it in the blocks in which it’s printed. For example....CAPY 100000LD LMT 120000LT WT 49000....trim the top left corner of the “C”, the top right corner of the last “0” in the top line, and the bottom right corner of the last “0” in the bottom line with a simple diagonal chop. You will be surprised by how much difference it can make in the finished appearance.Use distilled water for soaking the decal - it's available in gallon jugs at any supermarket, and not at all expensive. This eliminates any dissolved minerals which might otherwise be present in tap water, and a gallon will do a lot of decals. Do not rush the soaking process for the decal, but allow it to release from the backing paper on its own. If it's big enough to handle with tweezers (not something small, such as a single digit for dimensional data), dip the released film into water, submerging it completely, then, as you withdraw it from the water, drag the back-side of it over the lip of the container holding the water - this helps to remove any residue left from the backing paper. Depending on the particular decal, you may want to repeat this a couple of times. Smaller decals, like blocks of dimensional data or single numerals, can be simply dipped into the water, then set on your work surface while the water frees them from the backing paper. Most decals applied using only water can be re-wet and moved an almost infinite number of times. For very small pieces of decal (a single letter or numeral, or even a period or comma, I place the dry decal near its intended place, then wet it with a drop of water on my fingertip or the end of a knife or tweezers. It can usually be slid off the backing paper easily, then maneuvered into place. Use references on the model (rivet lines, panel lines, doors, ladders, and other details) as guides to position the lettering correctly and level. Where those details aren't available, I like to cut strips of masking tape as guidelines, and when lettering with individual letters or numerals, often use a pencil to denote, on the tape, the beginning and end of each word, so that the spacing is correct. Likewise, individual letter spacing is not usually uniform, but rather depends on the particular letters and their sequence within the words. Google "kerning" for more info. Once the decals have been applied on the gloss surface and have been blotted using a clean cloth, I use a small brush to apply a fairly weak setting solution around the perimeter of each individual pieces of decal, and also on the decals’s surface - Microscale’s Microset works well for this step. Let the decals dry fully - it usually takes 10 or 15 minutes at most.Next, I use the brush-in-cap from the Solvaset bottle to apply this stronger decal setting solution, in the same manner as the previous operation. I let this dry completely (a couple hours at least, although I often leave them overnight) then use a clean cloth over my fingertip, dipped in the distilled water to wet it, then gently rub the wet cloth over each piece of the applied and set decals - this should remove any marks left by the action of the Solvaset. Use a dry portion of the same cloth to remove any remaining water from the model’s surface.After the decals have been cleaned and have fully-dried, I overspray them with another coat of clear gloss. This step may seem unnecessary, but the gloss of the decal seldom matches exactly the gloss of the surface on which it has been applied. This overspray ensures that the entire surface has a uniform finish. If you're using an airbrush for applying the clear finish, it will dry (to-the-touch, at least) very rapidly, and you can then apply the flat (or semi-gloss, if you're modelling a fairly new car) almost immediately. After this step, the decal work is completed, and the car set aside, usually at least overnight or for a day-or-so to let the clear coats fully harden. Airbrushing gives you the option of mixing that final clear coat to whatever sheen or flatness you wish for that particular model. The car can then be weathered as you wish, but unless you're weathering using oils or chalk, I'd recommend no flat overspray over the weathering, as it usually makes the weathering effects too uniform.----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Not a lot has been said about precautions using paints and cleaners, but for cleaners, nitrile or rubber gloves are a good idea if the material is caustic or harmful to skin. An example of the latter would be methyl hydrate, a type of alcohol which is a very effective paint remover for some types of paint. However, it is readily absorbed through the skin, causing damage to some internal organs.For airbrushing, I always wear a two-stage Cartridge-type filter mask, which prevents inhalation of sprayed paint particles and also blocks harmful vapours from paint and thinners.
My paint shop is located in my detached garage, and the homemade spraybooth is fitted with an exhaust fan and replaceable filters.
About all I can add is that if you're painting steam locomotives, look on-line for colour photos of real ones...very few of them, maybe none, are just "black".
I use black, pretty-well on its own, for the cab and sides of the tender. For the boiler, and front of the smokebox, the black includes some white and/or grey, and is also used on the deck of the tender. The frame and running gear utilises the same paint with a little more grey and/or white, and usually some brown too.
For non-lagged smokeboxes and fireboxes, that latter mixture gets a healthy shot of red.
If the smokebox and/or firebox is lagged, I prefer a coat of Floquil's Graphite, but I'm pretty sure that there should be a more current supplier of that colour.
One the locomotive is painted, it's time to clear-coat some of it. I do the cab and tender sides with a fairly glossy clear, then a not-too-glossy coat on the boiler and smokebox front (and usually the pilot, too).
The running gear and tender deck get a fairly flat application of clear, while the smokebox and firebox get none.After that, you can weather the loco and tender to whatever degree you wish, using your airbrush, paint brushes, and/or weathering powders. For the latter, I prefer oil-based pastels...simply rub them over some coarse-ish sandpaper, then dump the resultant dust into a suitable container. Use a cheap brush (or a good one that's seen better days) to apply the powder. I don't use a fixative for this, as my locomotives are seldom handled. Overspaying with a clear flat will protect them from handling, but will also lessen the effect of the powders.
A few locomotives done for friends...
...and a few of my own...
Wayne
hbgatsfMaybe that has something to do with which paint. I have bottles of Floquil that were thinned and returned to the bottles 20 years ago. I can still use them.
I have some bottles of Model Master paint that I thinned the entire bottle and then returned the unused portion to the bottle, and this has been fine.
My biggest problems were with returning a thinned amount of Scalecoat II into a bottle of the same colour, unthinned.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
hbgatsf This is a timely subject for me as I am about to tackle repainting an old locomotive as a test before I get an new undecorated one. I have used an airbrush for many years on buildings but never rolling stock. I still have Floquil bottles that I will be using. How long does that need to dry between coats when applied properly with an airbrush? What is the purpose of the primer? Is it to promote adhesion or for uniform color? I have never used it on buildings. Rick
This is a timely subject for me as I am about to tackle repainting an old locomotive as a test before I get an new undecorated one. I have used an airbrush for many years on buildings but never rolling stock.
I still have Floquil bottles that I will be using. How long does that need to dry between coats when applied properly with an airbrush?
What is the purpose of the primer? Is it to promote adhesion or for uniform color? I have never used it on buildings.
Rick
If using SAME color, dry to the touch before next coat. If masking for seperate color, whatever specified on bottle/by manufacturer for "Mask in...." time.
Switching brands or type? (Clear over top of color, different brand for second color, etc...) Then totally cured before next layer. (No paint smell at all.)
Primer - Especially useful for even color coating on models with details added that are not base color, as well as helps adhere better, as it is usually more "sticky" compared to normal colors.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
SeeYou190 gmpullman One more hint. Resist the temptation to return thinned paint to the original bottle. You can't say that loud enough. Never return thinned paint back to the bottle of new paint. -Kevin
gmpullman One more hint. Resist the temptation to return thinned paint to the original bottle.
You can't say that loud enough.
Never return thinned paint back to the bottle of new paint.
Maybe that has something to do with which paint. I have bottles of Floquil that were thinned and returned to the bottles 20 years ago. I can still use them.
I don't do much painting, but these are my steps.
Strip model with 90% alcohol and finish with a toothbrush, rinse.
Paint with flat color (which usually stick as well as primers)
Apply glosscote with a brush under the areas I want to decal.
(weathering is optional)
Then finish with dullcote to dull the glossy decals and provide a uniform coat.
This minimizes the number of paint layers.
- Douglas
gmpullmanOne more hint. Resist the temptation to return thinned paint to the original bottle.
I see this thread go ressurected, so thought I would 'ammend' my answer.
Only adjusting points that have changed.
3 - I have switched over to Vallejo primer on cases needing primer 90% of the time. It's airbrush ready, acrylic based primer that goes on smooth and level. Clean up is very easy.
4 - While ModelFlex is still my "normal", I have tried Tru-Color, and though it is acrylic, it is acetone based. The consistancy and smoothness is a bit beter than Modelflex. (Almost* as smooth as Laquer based enamels.)
8 - I have switched to using a gloss coat followed by a finish coat. (Semi, mate, dead flat.) The gloss coat after the decals seems to help hide the edges just a bit better than going straight to finish (dull) coats.
Bonus points:
Spray booth is a definite plus, and still use all PPE. Just like the big 1:1 railroads, "Safety Begins With YOU" and can not be stressed enough.
Only other tips I can think of:
Between coats of different brands, allow to fully cure. (No odor of paint.) This will help prevent any issues with reactions. "Fully Cured" is different from "dry to the touch." (Can take days depending on humidity.)
Test your paint brands on expendable models first if switching between brands, to make sure no unwelcome things occur.
(Vallejo Primer has not seemed to react with either ModelFlex nor tru-Color. But I still allow full cure anyways.)
Thinning either Modelflex or craft-store acrylics - Use acrylic airbrush medium, and distilled water (80-20) with a drop of acrylic flow aid. Tru-Color has their own thinner, and it works best with their paint.
Oh, and it's time and money well spent to make a proper spray booth. There have been some very good threads on the theory and practice- even very simple construction in cardboard and furnace filters can get you 'in the game'.
mthobbiesWhat do you use for thinner? Is regular laquer thinner okay? Or do I have to buy the special Scalecoat thinner?
Hi, Matt
For the Scalecoat One, which I primarily use on brass models, I bought the Scalecoat thinner. My reasoning being that I didn't want to risk having paint problems on a $500 - $1000 brass model by going cheap with the paint compatibility issues.
For the Scalecoat Two I used commercial "paint thinner" (not lacquer thinner) and I've had excellent results using this as a thinner.
You can search online sources and get many opinions and different "formulas" for Scalecoat thinner substitutes and there may be some merit to these. Some include naptha, xylene and a few other chemicals. By the time you buy all that stuff and do your own mixing, trying to keep the proportions exact it just seems like a lot of extra guesswork that may result in less than ideal results.
I certainly don't use the expensive Scalecoat thinners for clean up. When used strictly for thinning your paint a little goes a long way. I still have a few ounces of my first pint remaining and I've painted many projects over the past few years since I began using Scalecoat.
One more hint. Resist the temptation to return thinned paint to the original bottle.
That can lead to gummy, curdled paint after a short while. I've also learned to buy the one ounce bottles since the shelf life of the opened two ounce bottles is rather limited. Better to pay a little more for the small bottle unless you have an immediate use for the larger quantity.
Scalecoat Two takes at least a week to completely cure on plastic. Plan your project accordingly. With Scalecoat One I will bake the brass or other metal model in an oven at 150-175°F for about two hours.
Just last night I painted a pair of PRR observation cars in Scalecoat One which actually had plastic diaphragms already attached. I kept the temperature at about 110° and carefully (fingers crossed) checked on them throughout the process.
They turned out just fine
Good Luck, Ed
Put me in the acrylics camp. No fumes and easy to clean. I use Vallejo and Protopaint. The latter is now harder to find but in my opinion much better in quality. It is airbrush ready - brush painting is possible, with several coats.
About the clogging issue, the easiest solution is to 1) if it's older paint, filter it first; 2) between coats, clear the nozzle with distilled water kept in a spare bottle. Just change the bottle and clear the airbrush by spraying on a rag. Block the nozzle a few times to allow the air to clear the system in the other direction. Also make sure that the paint is of the appropriate thickness - it should have the thickness of canned milk. Spray on a piece of wood first to check.
As for the steps, I would only add that you forgot to add the weathering step at the end .
Simon
Pretty much any rattle can from a hardware store will lay down way to thick and obsure details on a model train. You can get a very nice clone of the Pasche air brush from Harbor Freight for under $20 last I looked. I have been using mine for years and love it. A proper compressor is also a thing very worth spending the $$ on. I have a Badger brand air brush compressor and I believe HF has them as well. The Scalecoat and Tamiya rattle cans are better, but still way to thick in the layer of paint they lay down, especially on brass. To me, the only good way to paint model trains is with an air brush mated to a proper compressor(not the cans of propellent). You want a high gloss finish if you are going to be doing any decaling. After the decals are done and dry, then you can overcoat with a flat or satin clear overcoat. Scalecoat comes in 1 and 2. One of the two is for metal/brass and the other is safe for use on plastic. Make sure you get the correct version for the model you are painting. There is also Tru Color and Badger's Modelflex brands of paint out there. There are several good how to video series on youtube for painting brass and plastic models. They cover the proper prep work prior to painting(very important if painting a brass model), stripping paint and take you all they way thru finishing the model and weathering.
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
1. Just to state the (seemingly) obvious - if possible, buy an undecorated model so you don't have to strip the existing paint and lettering.
3. Tamiya spray can primer goes on in about as fine a spray as an airbrush, I use that even if I'm going to follow it up with airbrushing a color.
4. Yes, if you're painting a black engine like a steam engine. Although I would just use Tamiya flat black spray can paint if it's all black. If you're doing a steam engine, you might want to spray a weathered black - more like a dark gray than black.
5. Better to do two light coats than one overly heavy one.
6. Tamiya gloss finish spray out of the can works fine.
8. Tamiya flat finish works well out of the spray can too.
I generally then weather the car or engine with an overall light coating of powdered charcoal, then seal that in with flat spray. Unlike chalk weathering, the powdered charcoal doesn't disappear when sealed in. Then I add chalk weathering over the car or engine as needed.
gmpullman Trainman440 3. Prime with Rustoleum Primer I'm in agreement with all the good advice from Henry and Dave. The one sticky step, to me anyway, is the Rustoleum (or Krylon?) primer step #3. As Dave points out some of these primers can be heavy-bodied, especially if they say "automotive or sandable" anywhare on the label. I certainly use my share of all kinds of different primers but when it comes to detail work I shy away from them. So... the paint I've been using for engines and cars, both brass and plastic, is Scalecoat I and II. I am very pleased with the results and the paint dries to a super gloss finish ready for decals (save for one or two of their paints designed for a flat finish). The Scalecoat line was recently picked up by Minuteman Models and I've made several purchases from them in the past few months with great service. http://www.minutemanscalemodels.com/ And the excellent advice Dave offers— to PRACTICE on older cars or even plain sheets of shiny card stock or poster board will let you get the feel of handling the brush and adjusting the air ratios and pressures. These brass Pennsy cars were done in Scalecoat I Tuscan Red. Here's the Troop Sleeper after decaling but without any clear over the decals (yet). The trust plate on the upper right of the car has microscopic text that would have been obliterated with even the lightest primer coat. I'll try to get a close-up of it. This Bachmann E-33 was formerly in Virginian paint and after stripping I shot it with Scalecoat II and applied the decals the next day. Again, I have not yet sprayed any clear. I'll do that when I get to the weathering step. Lots of modelers have different experiences with painting and you will develop your own technique. I still use lots of Polly Scale and ModelFlex, mainly for weathering and structures but for detailed rolling stock I reach for the Scalecoat. Good Luck, Ed
Trainman440 3. Prime with Rustoleum Primer
I'm in agreement with all the good advice from Henry and Dave.
The one sticky step, to me anyway, is the Rustoleum (or Krylon?) primer step #3.
As Dave points out some of these primers can be heavy-bodied, especially if they say "automotive or sandable" anywhare on the label.
I certainly use my share of all kinds of different primers but when it comes to detail work I shy away from them.
So... the paint I've been using for engines and cars, both brass and plastic, is Scalecoat I and II. I am very pleased with the results and the paint dries to a super gloss finish ready for decals (save for one or two of their paints designed for a flat finish).
The Scalecoat line was recently picked up by Minuteman Models and I've made several purchases from them in the past few months with great service.
http://www.minutemanscalemodels.com/
And the excellent advice Dave offers— to PRACTICE on older cars or even plain sheets of shiny card stock or poster board will let you get the feel of handling the brush and adjusting the air ratios and pressures.
These brass Pennsy cars were done in Scalecoat I Tuscan Red.
Here's the Troop Sleeper after decaling but without any clear over the decals (yet). The trust plate on the upper right of the car has microscopic text that would have been obliterated with even the lightest primer coat. I'll try to get a close-up of it.
This Bachmann E-33 was formerly in Virginian paint and after stripping I shot it with Scalecoat II and applied the decals the next day. Again, I have not yet sprayed any clear. I'll do that when I get to the weathering step.
Lots of modelers have different experiences with painting and you will develop your own technique. I still use lots of Polly Scale and ModelFlex, mainly for weathering and structures but for detailed rolling stock I reach for the Scalecoat.
Ed,
What do you use for thinner? Is regular laquer thinner okay? Or do I have to buy the special Scalecoat thinner?
Thanks, Matt
Airbrush medium is a product that can be used to thin acrylic paints for airbrushing. It helps the paint to lay down in a smooth layer. Google "airbrush medium" and you can find a list of available products. I prefer Golden Airbrush Medium but others probably work as well.
Joe
Mike:
MikeFFI tried using airbrush medium
Can you explain what you mean by "air brush medium"? Is it something you add to the paint?
Thanks,
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
After years of uneven results using acrylics-mostly because of clogging in the airbrush head, I tried using airbrush medium-night and day difference in results. Thin paint, airbrush medium and low pressure.
Mike
Hi, Charles
If you are just starting out with airbrushing and taking that leap from the 97¢ Sam's Choice rattle can may I suggest getting a decent book on the subject.
Our very own Cody Grivno has an excellent book covering work shop tips including airbrushing.
https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/product/book/12475
The choice of paint will, to some degree, be a choice that only you can answer but you have to give the various types a test drive for yourself. Each one has advantages and each one has disadvantages.
For years I was spoiled by the acrylic, water-cleanup paints. Yes, they were nearly all flat finish so an additional gloss coat had to be applied if you were using decals. (I use dry transfers on some of my models, which do not require a glossy surface)
When Polly S and Modelfllex dried up I started looking for alternatives and decided to give Scalecoat a try. Weaver Models formerly distributed the paint and they had some tips for using it on their site.
I gave you the link to the new distributor above but the tips/hints page is no longer there.
Shooting enamel or lacquer paints requires different air and nozzle settings than with acrylic paints.
Scalecoat I is formulated for shooting directly on bare (clean) brass, metal or wood and Scalecoat II is formulated to spray directly on bare clean plastic.
Both dry to a hard, high gloss surface that, I have found, is ideal to apply decals to directly. None of my painting sessions with Scalecoat have ever required a second coat (unless doing a multi-color job, of course)
I do like to bake BRASS models, with ALL plastics removed (NO motors, wiring, plastic details) at about 150-170° F for about 45 min-1hr. (exact conditions may vary and this step is recommended but OPTIONAL) I check the oven with an IR thermometer.
Below is a link so you can browse Cody's Magnum Opus before investing in a copy.
https://books.google.com/books?id=NZiZCgAAQBAJ&pg=PA76&lpg=PA76&dq=scalecoat+painting+tips&source=bl&ots=LZqGdTPA1f&sig=OJttIIASriLF9BD2ujCmQMbTNM0&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjql--1-r_MAhUDcj4KHXURBbU4ChDoAQg6MAU#v=onepage&q=scalecoat%20painting%20tips&f=false
It's on sale at FDT or Amazon...
You can read all the books you want about how to swim, but until you jump in the water you'll never have a clue...
Hope that helps, Ed.
Thank you so much everyone for replying!!!!!!!
So now my question is this:
What paint does everyone prefer?
Model Master vs Pollyscale vs Floquil vs Scale coat I & II
Also what is Scale coat I & II? - I've heard that you need to bake scale coat I?!??!
Thanks again!
Charles
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/@trainman440
Instagram (where I share projects!): https://www.instagram.com/trainman440
Trainman440 Hi, I have been using rattle cans to paint my engines, and I want to convert to airbrushes. Help me fill in the questions on this list: 1. Soak engine shell in isopropyl Alcohol to remove dust/old paint/etc 2. Soak engine shell in warm, soapy water to remove fingerprints/other paint deformities. - Is this really necessary??? 3. Prime with Rustoleum Primer 4. Spray with black paint - (1) what brand of paint? (2) how much thinner to add to the paint? 5. Do a second layer if necessary. 6. Spray a gloss finish - (1) what brand of finish? (2) how much thinner to add to the finish? 7. apply decals 8. Spray a matte finish - (1) what brand of finish? (2) how much thinner to add to the finish? Are these steps correct? Is there anything I should add(like a second coat of primer or finish)? Thanks for the big help Charles
Hi, I have been using rattle cans to paint my engines, and I want to convert to airbrushes.
Help me fill in the questions on this list:
1. Soak engine shell in isopropyl Alcohol to remove dust/old paint/etc
2. Soak engine shell in warm, soapy water to remove fingerprints/other paint deformities. - Is this really necessary???
3. Prime with Rustoleum Primer
4. Spray with black paint - (1) what brand of paint? (2) how much thinner to add to the paint?
5. Do a second layer if necessary.
6. Spray a gloss finish - (1) what brand of finish? (2) how much thinner to add to the finish?
7. apply decals
8. Spray a matte finish - (1) what brand of finish? (2) how much thinner to add to the finish?
Are these steps correct? Is there anything I should add(like a second coat of primer or finish)?
Thanks for the big help
1. 90% Isopropyl works most of the time.
2. Yes. Always. Nothing looks worse than a giant sized thumb print on any scale model anything.
3. Some kind of primer, your choice of which. (Unless the shell had zero work done and is a single light primer color. Then and only then can the primer be skipped.) Just avoid the filler primer, unless you want details covered over. Light coats, more than one. (Some brands offer primers that you can use in your airbrush.) Repeat coats as necessary.
4. What brand depends on if you want acrylic, enamel, or lacquer based paints. General rule of thumb with thinner is enough to make the paint the consistency of 2% milk. If you use acrylic, like me, always use distilled water, never tap water or drinking water. The minerals will leave a nasty film on the model. (Yes, I learned this the hard way.) My acrylic of choice is Badger Modelflex. With it, it only needs to be thinned by about 80/20 paint/thinner. You want it thin enough to spray, but thick enough you don't need 30 coats... And you want thin coats.... See step 5.
5. (Really 5.0) It will be nessesary, if you do it correctly. So will a third. Sometimes a fourth. If your first coat is pooling around details, or creating runs, you are laying on too thick of a coat. Thin coats work best, but need more than one. Or two. So, steps 5.1, 5.2, sometimes 5.3 are repeat step 5.0.
6. (6.0) Again, brand requires knowledge of if its acrylic based, enamel, or lacquer based. Again, thinned to consistency of 2% milk is a good rule of thumb. (Sprays better around this consistency, and isn't so thick as to be requiring a ton of air pressure, but is thick enough you won't need 30 coats...) Always let paint cure fully before gloss coats. Again, more than one light coat will be required. So step 6.1, and sometimes 6.2 is repaeat step 6.0 For airbrushing I again use Modelflex, which is acrylic based, thinned with distilled, never tap, water, but Testor's rattle cans can work if you move quickly enough to do light coats. (I have been debating trying the Future trick, but have not gotten around to it.)
7. Yes. After gloss coat has fully cured. (No paint odor.) Again, always use distilled, never use tap water. Again, I learned it the hard way. (Water to float decal off backing paper. Micro set or similar decal setting solution to apply on model.)
8. Again, I can't answer the brand question as it needs qualified by type, enamel, acrylic, or lacquer. I use Modelflex acrylic to airbrush, Testor's Dullcote from rattle cans when I don't want to set up the airbrush for just one little car for just Dullcote. (Move fast with the rattle cans though, for light coats, not thick heavy ones.) As mentioned, some people have better success using gloss coat after decaling but before dull finish coats. Again, multiple light coats as needed. (I use two light coats to seal decals, 3 or more when using pastel or powder weathering techniques.) Thinned again to consistency of 2% milk. (Satin if no weathering, and newer unit. Dead flat for all others.)
9. (Optional) Weather technique of choice. (Many to choose from.)
10. (If you did step 9.) Finish coat, either satin or dead flat. (I use dead flat for most, satin if a very lightly weathered newer built date.)
And, do not forget, after airbrushing, immediately clean out the airbrush! (Absolute must here. Thinned paint dries very quickly, and will gum up the airbrush quickly if that happens.) As I use only acrylic based paints, mostly Modelflex, I clean the airbrush with Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Spray whichever you are using for cleaner until it comes out clear. ( This can take a little while.) I use one of those airbrush cleaning pots. (You spray into it, it contains the cleaner and all overspray from it. It also contains a filter, so you can sometimes reuse the cleaner solution. Sometimes is almost never....)
Also, always remember safety first, only spray with adequate ventilation and PPE. (Personal Protective Equipment.) This is not optional.
EDIT: And, I use acrylic for health reasons, asthma. Stronger fumes from solvent based paints bother it more than the acrylics. I still use full PPE though. That means gloves, and respirator, designed for painting. I only spray solvent based rattle cans outside on nice days.
Tamiya is the best of the rattle can paints, their primer goes on smoothly and their clear flat is a true flat, unlike Dullcoat which has more of a satin surface than a true flat.
Everyone has their own methods and products they like that can yield great results. Just my opinions here–
Here is my two cents: Don’t use rattle cans for any of it. The point of using the airbrush in the first place to is to precisely control the amount of paint being applied to the model and to not hide the detail. Use the airbrush for the primer and the gloss and dull coats. You can airbrush a great coat of black over a coat of rattle can primer that has gone on too thick and still end up with a crummy paint job (don’t ask)…
Paint Choice: There are some of us who are all acrylic for a variety of reasons. For me, it is not wanting to deal with the fumes and ventilation issues with solvent based paints. Because of recent discontinuations of the Polly scale (acrylic) and Floquil (solvent) brands, the hobby is in a bit of disarray as everyone who used those brands (for fifty years) uses up the old stock and has to switch over to another currently available brand. This may account for some of the ambiguity about brands/types of paint that you are seeing these days among modelers.
In the airbrush: I have found solvent based paints like Floquil to be best in an airbrush when compared to acrylics. Acrylics will dry out in the brush and cannot be easily re-dissolved and removed with thinner. The solubility in thinner makes it easier to keep the brush clog free and to not have as many problems cleaning when using solvent based paint. It also means that an internal mix brush will work better and be easier to use with solvent based paint for the same reason. I use a single action external mix brush for Acrylic and it is much easier to manage clogging problems and to clean but it does give up some control and flexibility compared to the dual action internal brushes.
Acrylics: The painting approach with acrylics is also a little different than with solvent based products. Acrylics generally go on thicker and don’t tend to snug down on the surface quite as well as solvent based paints. You have to be careful not to get the coats too thick with acrylic. When gloss coating for decals, I don’t spray the whole loco for this reason, just the areas to be decaled….
Gloss and clear: Acrylic Gloss and clear coats are something that has been a little wonky in the past few years as the formulas keep changing and some paints don’t play well together…. Always test first…
Good luck with the endeavor. I find painting locos to be oddly satisfying,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
I just finished my Roundhouse 4-4-2 Atlantic using spray cans. I got a very nice finish with Krylon. I used 3 - 4 VERY light coats a few minutes apart - just enough to completely cover the primer color. I did not lose any detail definition and the paint flowed out nice and smooth. Krylon has flat black, semi-flat black, gloss black, semi-gloss black, and satin black. I used the satin finish as I was looking for a brand spanking new loco look, rather than a weathered loco look.
My only issue is that I used Duplicolor automotive Self Etching Primer, which I thought would give the best bond to the white metal castings, but as it turns out the bond is not very good at all. I need to find a better primer for the next project.
For preparation I thoroughly scrubbed the castings with a fine "Toothbrush" type wire brush, then wiped down with acetone. The fine wire brush seemed to give me a nice scuffed surface that I thought would hold the primer well. On the next kit I might try glass beading the castings.
Let's see here. I still use rattle cans. You have to hold them at the right distance, too close and you get sags and runs, to far and the paint dries before it hits the model.
Isopropyl Alcohol. I call that paint removal rather than cleaning. The 90% works btter than the 70%. It you want to remove all the old paint, that's a good way to go. I usually just paint over the old paint.
Either way, after paint removal with alcohol or whatever (Pinesol, Easy-off, etc) or not, you want the surface as clean as possible. Warm water and dish wash, plus scrub with a toothbush, followed by a warm water rinse, will take off fingerprints and just plain grime. Let it dry all the way, overnight is good. Handle with gloves after the last rinse.
Rustoleum and Krylon make three colors of auto primer. The Dark Gray auto primer is just the right color and texture for a steam locomotive. It covers anything and dries dead flat. It sticks to metal well. It has the cinder covered look any steamer had after a few hours on the road out of the wash rack. It takes decals well. I use it for both prime and finish coats on steamers.
For plastic diesels to be painted something other than black, I usually don't prime, unless its a light color finish coat going over a real dark old coat, eg Brunswick Green. The light paints have trouble covering dark paint. A coat of the right color primer, light gray under light colors, red under red, will solve the covering problem.
I don't bother to put on a gloss coat for the decals. Lotta people recommend doing so, but my decals go onto flat primer or anything else just fine.
Decals, trim them as close as possible, slide them into position, blot up excess water with a Kleenex to keep them from floating out of position. After they are dry enough to stay put, give them a coat of Solvaset. The Solvaset softens the decal film and lets it snuggle down over lumps and bumps and rivets. DO NOT attempt to move a decal after Solvaset, it will tear every time.
After the decals are good and dry, overnight at least, a day is better, a shot of DullCote will blend the decal film into the model and make it invisible. I have tried flat finishes other than DullCote. One of them made the decals go all crinkly. I stick with DullCote since then. I use DullCote rattle cans, so I don't get a chance to thin the stuff. For an airbrush, I would thin DullCote like I thin other paints, what ever works well for you.
For paints, I like Rustoleum and Krylon in rattle cans. With some looking you can find the colors you need. With the exception of auto primer, rattle cans are gloss, but a final shot of DullCote will yield a matte finish.
For the real model paints, I prefer Floquil. I have a stash of it left, but sooner or later we will have to adapt, or die, or go RTR. Since the EPA is still at war with paint thinner, I'm afraid we are stuck with water based acrylics. I
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I think one reason there may be different views on each paint, is because of availibility, and what you can get in your area, or what your willing to order and wait for.
They are all good. I get the ModelMasters at a local arts/crafts store, about 15 miles away. I get other brands when I make the 30 mile trip to my main hobby shop.
Of course, I can get the spray paint cans at any of the BB or hardware stores, which I seldom / almost never use on models with details. Thats why the air brush is so good, as you can lay down thin coats, and not cover or destort details.
Good advice on the Dull coat and Gloss coat, as alot of paint comes out quick! I usually warm up spray cans before I use them by sitting them in warm water, and shaking often. It seems to help the paint go on in a finer mist, instead of blobs.
Mike.
My You Tube
Medina1128 if you have a Walmart near you, check out the primer that comes in the blue and white cans; it cost 96 cents and does a good job of covering, and comes out at a nice rate without covering details. Cleanliness is the best way to ensure a good paint job. After stripping old paint, I never touch the model without gloves. Nothing will ruin a paint job (and waste a lot of time) than an oily fingerprint.
if you have a Walmart near you, check out the primer that comes in the blue and white cans; it cost 96 cents and does a good job of covering, and comes out at a nice rate without covering details. Cleanliness is the best way to ensure a good paint job. After stripping old paint, I never touch the model without gloves. Nothing will ruin a paint job (and waste a lot of time) than an oily fingerprint.
Yes, i've tried that. That paint is horrible, I destroyed one of my models becase the paint is so diluted, that it would just seem around the little details around the model. I had to restrip the engine and repaint with some better primer. I use Rustleum profession primer.
Dont get me wrong,the 96 cent paint cans are the best, in fact they are the only brand that has the paint come out smooth, unlike EVERY rustoluem(nonnprofessional) paint can that comes out in dried chunks, making me restrip and repaint. MOST of thr Krylon paints I've bought are way to watery, like the cheap primer.
The walmart 96 cent blacks are my favorite, but im trying to convert to air brush.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Thanks all for the info!
One thing that everyone seems to be disagreeing on is the type of paint to use.
So what are the pros and cons of each brand of paint?
Modelmaster vs Pollyscale&Floquil vs Scale coat I & II?
Thanks
Trainman4403. Prime with Rustoleum Primer