Spotty runni8ng locomotive?

[cplmckenzie]

Hello again,

Question. I have a loco that runs spotty over my entire layout. You can hear it and see the lights go out as it runs around.

Now all my other loco's run without this problem.

Is it possible that I need to replace the wheels on the one locomotive.

btw. I will begin the NS paint job on Monday. Got my fingers crossed.

cplmckenzie

 

[cplmckenzie]

hi, And thanks. I do know it is HO scale. The other, I really don't know.

I hope you can make these out. I got it used from ebay.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/gmckenzie444cplmckenzie/2015-12-04%2017.21.49_zpspueqznta.jpg

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/gmckenzie444cplmckenzie/2015-12-04%2017.21.41_zpsakqgb25t.jpg

Thanks,
cplmckenzie

[richhotrain]

It could be a lot of things, all related to that specific loco since all of your other locos run just fine and without flickering lights.

Among the issues could be dirty wheels, loose or broken pickup wires, and drive train problems.

Rich

[hornblower]

In this hobby, a lot of great "deals" are just too good to be true. As David pointed out, some "train set" quality locos are truly lacking in features that most experienced modelers know are absolute minimums.  On a four-axle diesel this means all eight wheels pick up electrical power and both trucks put the power to the rails.  One tip-off to the "train set" quality of your purchase are the old horn-hook X2F couplers.  Almost all manufacturers have long since switched over to some brand of knuckle couplers which not only look more like prototype couplers but also work more reliably than the X2F couplers. Only the really cheap stuff still comes equipped with X2F couplers anymore.  In the future, beware of the product if you see these couplers.  True, older good quality locos could still have them but these are most obvious tip-off to look a little closer at what you're buying.

The real irony of manufacturers selling such bad stuff is that they end up losing a lot of potential return customers by selling them products that are so sub-standard that the buyer gets frustrated and gives up on the whole thing before they ever find out how much fun they could have with this hobby.  

One way to save your purchase would be to remove the gears from this loco's trucks and just use it as a non-powered "dummy" locomotive you can use in multiple loco consists.

[hon30critter]

cplmckenzie:

The easiest way to avoid getting stuck with another poorly designed locomotive is to only purchase things where the item is clearly identified as coming from a reliable manufacturer. Look for names like Intermountain, Kato, Stewart, Life Like Proto 2000 (if its Life Like but not Proto 2000 or P2K stay away), Athearn Genesis, Athearn BB (Blue Box), Atlas, Rapido or Bowser. I'm sure I have missed some so others will hopefully chime in.

One other indication if you are bidding and the price is really low but there aren't a lot of other bidders, then although there is a remote possibility that you have a real bargain on your hands, likely the locomotive is a dud.

Also, if you can get a view of the bottom of the engine, if there are any black plastic wheels then pass on it. If you turn your problem engine over that is likely what you will see.

Dave

[Da Stumer]

That looks like a model power F2 to me. They are light, and don't have much pulling power. I've got one, and it does have all wheel drive, but it is still not a great runner. VERY sensitive dirty track, and spins its wheels in place with any medium weighted load. It is very bouncy, too. Honestly, it isn't worth your time unless you really want it. I would clean the track and wheels, and see if that helps.

[Lone Wolf and Santa Fe]

It sounds like dirty wheels. Also might only be picking up power from one set so makes dirty wheels more problematic. Try cleaning the wheels with isopropyl alcohol.

[BroadwayLion]

I had a spotty locomotive once. It turned out that a LEOPARD was running it.

 

ROAR