Hi Folks,
Newbie here, doing a bunch of research before making a plunge into the hobby.
One question that I'm still unclear about the answer for, is about the interchangeability of all the various track types, couplers, power supplies, etc. I'm finding plenty of options and opinions about different companies' offerings, but wonder how interchangeable it all is?
For example, if I purchase a Bachmann starter set with their EZ-track, how easy would it be to expand by attaching Atlas Flex or another company's track, attach additional non-Bachmann rolling stock, haul the Bachmann stock with a new loco, etc. Are there easy adaptations or difficult modifications that I will need to make? Any gotchas to be aware of?
If I puchase a new loco, will it run fine with the power supply that came with the Bachmann starter set?
How will my first purchase choices limit my future options to expand? I'm not ready to spend big-time money until I can grow into the hobby a bit.
I'm loving all the info I'm finding. Thanks in advance.
-Colin
Colin:
Most section track and flex track and turnouts are interchangable as long as they are the same scale (HO, N) and t6he same code, which refers to rail height.
Pieces like EZ trak and other brands are very different in that they have built in road bed, and a propriatory system of connecting.
A car should be capable of fitting on any track, and couplers can be changed out with one that matchs other that you have.
Whether a locomotive works with your system depends on if it DC or DCC equiped when you buy it. Most trains are DC, so if you buy another DC loco it will work, perhaps a very different speed for a throttle setting.
A model train shop or some of the members taking part in local shows should be willing to help you.
Dave
I guess I'll jump in here. Brand interchangeability in HO scale keeps getting better and better all the time.
As far as track, most any HO gauge track product will connect with any other HO gauge track product. The only real problem is matching rail heights. Take the Bachmann EZ Track for example. I believe this is Code 100 track (rail height is 0.100") set into plastic roadbed. Since this track is fixed to the roadbed, attaching another brand of track will require you to find a roadbed material that will allow the tops of the rails of both brands to be equal. For simplicity, it will be easiest to join Code 100 track to Code 100 track. However, transition joiners can be used to connect Code 83 track (rail height is 0.083") to Code 100. Rail joiners are pretty similar between brands and most will work on various brands of track. Joiners meant for smaller rail can be used on larger rail with a little persuasion. For instance, I like to use Altas N scale Code 80 joiners to connect HO scale Code 83 track. Turnouts, crossovers and other specialty track should also interconnect with top of rail height being the main concern. You can always stay with the Bachmann EZ Track as they offer a wide range of track products. However, you would want to buy only nickel silver track (grey roadbed) and try to stay away from the steel track (black roadbed). I don't know whether Kato Unitrak plays well with other brands.
Most current HO scale rolling stock comes equipped with some brand of knuckle coupler that is compatible with a Kadee #5 coupler. New rolling stock still equipped with the old horn/hook X2F couplers is probably lacking in so many other features that you would want to stay away from it altogether. Most modelers eventually decide to equip all of their rolling stock with one brand of coupler. The Kadee #5 is the long time standard upgrade although the newer #148 whisker coupler is far easier to install. There are also scale size couplers available but we're getting a little far along in the game at this point.
Most rolling stock plays well with any other rolling stock. As long as the wheels are in gauge and the coupler heights and trip pins are correctly adjusted, most brands of rolling stock will couple together and behave in any train. As most rolling stock is lighter than the NMRA recommended weights, adding a little weight helps most cars follow the track better.
Track power is another sticking point for the newbie. Having used both DC cab control and DCC on layouts small and large, if I had to start over I would go directly to DCC. DCC makes it easier to run trains (no blocks to switch), will more easily run multiple trains and locos, and is far more entertaining with all of the features it offers that DC can't. Most HO starter train sets come equipped with some sort of DC power pack. However, there are some equipped with an entry level DCC system. While it is true that these entry level DCC systems are rather limited and will eventually be replaced by a better system, the same is true of any DC power pack that comes in a starter train set. Fortunately, the price of most starter sets is far less than buying all of the included parts separately so you won't be out much money either way. Keep in mind that the DCC equipped starter sets usually come with nickel silver track.
Now, if you should buy a set with DCC, any other loco purchases should also be of DCC "equipped" (not just DCC "ready") products. If you start off with a DC power pack equipped set, any new loco you buy should work with the starter pack. However, some DCC sound equipped locos use a lot of power running on DC and the little packs that come with starter sets may not have enough power for such locos. Likewise, a starter set DC power pack is not meant to be able to run multiple locos together and will overheat quickly should you try.
As far as what starter set to buy, there are several options. The thing to keep in mind is that you'll never get a feel for how much fun model railroading can be if you buy a starter set that falls apart on you after running it for only a short time. The majority of starter sets fall into this category. However, starter sets from Athearn, Walthers and Kato are all quality sets with good running trains that will last a long time and keep you interested in the hobby. The price of these sets tends to reflects this. If you know what to look for, there are several starter sets from Bachmann that also qualify. Any Bachmann set with the 2-8-0 Consolidation steam loco is worth the money as this loco has a rather good reputation. Likewise, any of the Bachmann Spectrum DCC equipped sets are a good way to start. Stay away from the really cheap Bachmann sets and stay away from Life Like altogether. Whatever you buy, keep in mind that the starter set is meant to be just that, a way to get you started in the hobby. Purchase wisely and you'll be off to a good start. Purchase poorly and we'll likely never hear from you again!
Since you're already a member of this forum, you've made a good start. Don't be shy about asking questions here as most of us have experienced your problems and already know the most cost effective solutions. You might get differing advice, but most of it will be accurate.
Probably the best thing to do at this point is pick out a few possible starter sets that look interesting to you and check back with us for approval.
Good luck!
Hornblower
ColinFor example, if I purchase a Bachmann starter set with their EZ-track, how easy would it be to expand by attaching Atlas Flex or another company's track, attach additional non-Bachmann rolling stock, haul the Bachmann stock with a new loco, etc. Are there easy adaptations or difficult modifications that I will need to make? Any gotchas to be aware of?
Equipment compatibility with today's products is usually a non-issue in the major scales.
In this photo of my HO scale layout, there are cars from Intermountain, Bowser, Model Die Casting, Athearn, Atlas, ExactRail, Accurail, Red Caboose, Walthers, and probably others. They all work together. I did replace any plastic wheels with metal, and any of the old "horn hook" type couplers with Kadees. Fortunately, most rolling stock in HO today comes with good quality metal wheelsets, and the stock couplers are "knuckle" types that work well enough together or with the popular Kadee brand. Plastic wheels can be retained if you so desire; replacement for me is out of personal preference.
Track is another matter. Until you have some experience laying reliable trackwork, mixing brands can create a lot of headaches. Different brands often have different rail cross sections, which can make connecting them challenging for beginners. Different brands of track with built-in plastic roadbed also aren't necessarily designed to be compatible, and are typically more expensive than brands without roadbed.
Kalmbach (the publisher for Model Railroader) has some good books for beginners https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/products/books?filter.hobby%20category=2013356bf82046d8b28043091e8d7520 , and this site has a collection of info on getting started, including subjects like track basics http://mrr.trains.com/beginners . Read up and you should get some valuable help.
Rob Spangler
hornblowerHowever, transition joiners can be used to connect Code 83 track (rail height is 0.083") to Code 100.
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."